Engine Breaking Down

[silverGPX]

Hi All,

Have this very annoying problem.

Whenever I've been driving my car for around 15 minutes or longer my car starts missing at idle and breaking down at revs past 4000rpm as in it feels like it drops a cylinder it will rev all the way to 8000rpm but sounds absolutely retarded

However runs absolutely perfectly before that 15 minutes, can get a clear clean MIVEC after 10 minutes.

What is causing this??

Its driving me insane.

So far I have:
Changed Coilpacks to known working items
Changed to new spark plugs
Changed the Fuel Filter
Unplugged the 02 sensor (Was thinking i had gotten the wrong one - no change)
Changed terminals on battery (Cut wire back so was fresh cleaned up ground on chassis rail and gearbox.
Full tank of fuel
I havent touched the TPS or any adjustments like that


The only things that i have added to the car previous to troubleshooting are the oil cooler & relocation kit, new exhaust gaskets, new o2 sensor, new ETS Sensor, intake pipe and pod.

[Shhtuart]

Is there a draw on the electrical system at all? Might indicate a bad earth somewhere. My car misfired when the map sensor wasn't hooked up properly. What does your vacuum guage read when it goes haywire? What about your fuel pump? If its cold it might be running alright but after 15 mins maybe its failing?

[silverGPX]

Is there a draw on the electrical system at all? Might indicate a bad earth somewhere. My car misfired when the map sensor wasn't hooked up properly. What does your vacuum guage read when it goes haywire? What about your fuel pump? If its cold it might be running alright but after 15 mins maybe its failing?

Nah i've cleaned up the earths perfect man, no rust or oil on connections, ive sanded the bolts and all the terminals, fresh battery terminals.

The vacuum gauge does not show anything abnormal.

It could be the fuel pump, is there a way to test this?

Would it throw an error code?

Im going to try and change back to standard ETS tonight, may be a faulty unit.

[silverGPX]

I also removed the Vacuum gauge and TPiece out of the equation and plugged it straight into the Manifold.

[silverGPX]

Oh great just snapped another gearbox cable as well

[JohanGPX]

I had more or less the same problem and I had to change the map sensor, mine however gave a error code.. Does your car start up straight away after breaking down or does it take some time?

[PHIL069]

I reakon it could be your O2 sensor.
You say you changed it and then probs.
You unplugged it and still probs.
Change it back to original and see if still probs.

[silverGPX]

I reakon it could be your O2 sensor.
You say you changed it and then probs.
You unplugged it and still probs.
Change it back to original and see if still probs.

I wish I had the original I'll try and source another one

[Bennoz]

I reakon it could be your O2 sensor.
You say you changed it and then probs.
You unplugged it and still probs.
Change it back to original and see if still probs.

I wish I had the original I'll try and source another one

I dont reckon an O2 sensor will cause it, all a screwed O2 sensor will do is stop it going into closed loop mode & you'll run a bit rich.

I still reckon it's a bad earth or a poor electrical plug connection somewhere.

[vanadinite]

Hi All,

Have this very annoying problem.

Whenever I've been driving my car for around 15 minutes or longer my car starts missing at idle and breaking down at revs past 4000rpm as in it feels like it drops a cylinder it will rev all the way to 8000rpm but sounds absolutely retarded

However runs absolutely perfectly before that 15 minutes, can get a clear clean MIVEC after 10 minutes.

What is causing this??

Its driving me insane.

So far I have:
Changed Coilpacks to known working items
Changed to new spark plugs
Changed the Fuel Filter
Unplugged the 02 sensor (Was thinking i had gotten the wrong one - no change)
Changed terminals on battery (Cut wire back so was fresh cleaned up ground on chassis rail and gearbox.
Full tank of fuel
I havent touched the TPS or any adjustments like that


The only things that i have added to the car previous to troubleshooting are the oil cooler & relocation kit, new exhaust gaskets, new o2 sensor, new ETS Sensor, intake pipe and pod.

Im pretty sure this is the issue i had when i first got my car. Took me months to fix. And no one could help cause hardly anyone has TCL which is the cause.

Turns out it was the second TPS that is part of the TCL ( not sure if thats the correct name but youll see it there). I fully retarded the sensor and the issue was fixed. The sensor screws up and sends conflicting information causing this feeling. Let me know if you need more info on it.

[silverGPX]

Yeah man it could be the metal collar in the steering wheel not aligned or something that's throwing it out. If could post a pic of which sensor and which way to retard it that would be great

[silverGPX]

The earths are mint ben

[vanadinite]

Ok, the sensor is on your throttle body on the firewall side. its just behind/below the TCL Cylinder thingy on top of the throttle body.

As you look at the sensor facing the car front on, i rotated it as left as possible. The picture should explain it more.

[silverGPX]

Right cheers bud, I'll give it a go. Think I'll plug my oxygen sensor back in cos I'm chewing through fuel

[vanadinite]

Let me know how you get on.

[destinationtoby]

Probably a dodgy earth connection

[Vectose]

Cluster... Oh I mean earths.

[PHIL069]

Probably a dodgy earth connection

[silverGPX]

Swapped out earths and cluster

[silverGPX]

So if I build the revs up slowly all the way to 8k it will rev up clearly (went on mountain run last night)

Could this mean its not getting fuel quick enough, because it just burbles if I plant it.