FTO AUSTRALIA

Hey Guys, got a few different questions here.

First off I have a 1995 Mitsubushi FTO GPX , Manual and non lsd, non abs, non traction control model. It has fully adjustable Tein coilovers and strut brace front and rear. Also am located in QLD / Brisbane.

Engine mounts:
I'm after either all engine mounts or just the 2 lower engine mounts
(depending on price and availability) with either stock or harder hardness not too fussed. Although I do not know the part
number nor where to get them. I've read some of the posts on engine mounts and the site directed at meek seem to be dead links at this time.

CV's:
I'm also after CV Joints/shafts as my both cv's have missing boots the clamps at the end and are ticking quite loudly especially on lock. I read up on them as well finding there are different spline numbers depending on gearbox/lsd. So i'm a bit worried on which to purchase or just get a shop to redo them (although i feel new would be better the shaft/axle nearly fell out completely) when installing the coilovers.

Swaybars/Bushes:
Regarding sway bars, I've called up pedders as theyd advertised having adjustable swaybars but seems they have no supplier that continues doing them, I know whiteline stopped a while ago and was wondering would finding swaybars with greater size/thickness be worth it? Or where to get the correct bushes for them. Since my bushes on the front and rear are worn out.
I have a gr parts car with a blown gearbox but realise the swaybars at least rear ones are smaller/different to the gpx ones.

Tyres/Wheels:
Another thing I read somewhere on the forum was about tyre sizes. Is there any danger in lump hammering the seam?
One set of my wheels has 18 by 7.5 235/40 RE003's which have the same problem (new tyres)
and current wheels are 17 by 8 offset 38 and was thinking of going from 225 or 235 45 on the 17s (evo 8 wheels).
I have the stock wheels but one of the wheels may have a buckle in the rim from previous owner.

Cosmetics/Body:
I also have a fibreglass bonnet (evo styled it looks to be with vents) which is in white but looks patched up and needs the ends where it bolts up properly fixed. Just wondering if its worth doing otherwise looks like just needs to be smoothed out and repainted. I also have a fibreglass Ds/Ts Factory pre facelift front bar which the lip part has been quite badly broken to a stage to keep it on had to cut a part out. I was thinking some ABS plastic underneath like a lip may sort it out get someone to fix with fibreglass (has spider cracks around it too). (Will add pictures soon). Also reccomendations for someone or place who works with fibreglass would be appreciated.

Interior/Aircon:
Along with this, recently what i'm assuming is the aircon vents/directing from outside air/inside air is constantly ticking for a minute. And at times if change to another direction 2 motors sound like they are missing teeth somewhere. I don't use aircon since im sure the compressor is not working but everytime i turn the car on it is there and gets quite distracting. Would pulling it out and moving the gear along help fix the problem?

02 Sensor:
Just checking I'll be needing an 02 sensor since my car runs extremely rich (can smell and tell by the oil) that the part number is 0X204, 4 Wire which would be a 6A12 Galant from places like Supercheap/Autobahn etc?

I've attached a picture with a list from Fulcrum on parts as well (I will not be doing all of them at least at once). The qote was over 3 grand so im looking at slowly doing the major stuff first and some stuff myself or through another place or person locally. A pointer in the right direction in getting parts would be much appreciated.

Thank you and sorry for the extremely long and sporadic read.

Some of those prices are pretty high.

For example $290 for front and rear adjustable swaybar links... You can just find ones in decent condition from a wrecked FTO and get them for next to nothing or just get non-adjustable ones (I bought one for less than $20 for the rear)

I recently got a full set of engine mounts from Mad Polly. They are obviously a lot stiffer than stock but at least they are all equal hardness (which you cannot get from Meek in the Ralliart hardness, the rear mount only comes stock hardness).

I think it was Selby Swaybars that Bennoz got them to fab up a rear sway bar for, and pretty sure they have the fronts too, and can get in a variety of sizes. Worth the upgrade too.

Nobody's reported any problems with hammering the seam to my knowledge. It could probably be more professionally done if you want to splash the cash at it, but running a tyre size closer to stock will eliminate most of the need. I had a 225/45R17 on my RPF1s and they were fairly trouble free. Or even go to a 235/40 or 215/45 depending on your preference/budget.

Bar looks pretty FUBAR but maybe you could save it. Would have to weigh up the cost of those repairs vs spending it on a new one I guess.

CV's apparently you can get from Repco and Bursons (one of those was 'core exchange only' I forget which, one of the Lancer guys on FB has been looking for some too). Obviously the way to know for certain which spline is to have it out and count.

Can't help much on the rest. Good luck!

Thanks Spetz and BJK for the quick replies,

If possible could I get a link to those Engine mounts from Mad Polly? I don't mind the hardness, initially the coilovers were set on 0 dampening which was interesting.

Also I'll hit up repco tomorrow and see what they can do for the CV's (same time with the 02 sensor).

For the sway bars what would be optimal sizes for the front and rear? Also is it Selby Automotives? I'd be keen on getting a quote for them and then getting the appropriate bushings. But contact info would be appreciated.

The swaybar links in the gr parts car seems to be in decent nick so might see if they fit. But yeah thats a bit of a price difference.

Yeah i feel the the front bar will need a lot of work, the bonnet not so much. Maybe a sand and paint but yeah the front bar may need to be "re-designed" or just get a new one haha.

As for the tyres, they almost new but no one wants to buy them or the wheels which imo are nice just scrubbed and had poor offset (45 from memory). If its not too hard may mash out the seam a little. Hoping 235/45 or so fit nicely on the car's evo wheels.

I'm keen to get most of the maintenance out the way, so I can put the RPW headers / new exhaust sytem and some small goodies on , on the note of headers is it worth getting them Ceramic Coated?

Here's their FB page https://m.facebook.com/madpolly/

Just had a look on here, not Selby anymore they go by Signature Sway bars. I've not the knowledge to suggest what sizes. But rears are usually 22-24mm (I've got a 22mm Whiteline, Ben got a 24mm from Signature). I think both Signature and Whiteline did an 18mm front (mine is), but you could possibly opt larger if you like.
Link to post from Bennoz http://ftoaustralia.com/v3/viewtopic.ph ... mm#p406197

IIRC GR drop links are a different design and aren't compatible.

And wouldn't probably bother with coating from what people have said previously.

Okay thank you for the info, if running after market swaybars will i need the adjustable rear swaybar links and modified mounting bracket as per the forum thread?

Also would I be better of getting new front end links/sway bar links/ droplinks (fronts)? they have play and one of the rubber parts is torn. Not sure where to get new ones from, camskill site is only tyres it seems now and whiteline and superpro only show the rears.

I know the rears aren't compatible from the gr from memory not sure about the fronts could be the same ill take a look.

So quote for front and rear adjustable sway bars 24mm and 18mm respectively is around 700 (not sure including freight $30+).

Did you guys have to buy new bushings or were the bushings they supply compatible (mine are in horrible condition)?

I've ordered the 02 sensor but the cv's are going to be done by a shop rebuilding them most likely will cost 600 in total including install.

Also ordered engine mounts and still looking for aftermarket front endlinks if possible. Will order rear adjustable end links when funds allow haha.

Then I'll be moving to exhaust and tyres hopefully.

Except for pressing in engine mounts, is most of this able to be done diy?

Thanks for all the help so far.

You won't need to press out the engine mounts if you are getting Mad Polys. There is an instruction youtube on how to burn out the old ones out of the housing and just reuse the old housing. Easy as to do, just did the bottom ones recently. They just slip in as they are in two parts. Simples.

Ok sweet, I'll take another look and find the video

Also I've been told by a friend that the 24mm rear and 18mm front would be rather prone to oversteer in certain conditions so I may
order 20mm front 22 rear or something along those lines. Or if anyone has experience with them, there opinion would be noted.

20mm front

Sahin wrote:20mm front

GPvR is 20 all round though

Any suggestions would be helpful since I do not know as much about sway bar sizes just minimal knowledge on how it helps.

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