Syntax's 4G93T Build

So you want a hairdryer on your FTO? Or do you already have a hairdryer in it? This is the section for it. All other big power projects & forced induction goes here too.

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Taz
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Re: Syntax's 4G93T Build

Post by Taz »

A rare GS as well!
Good find!
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syntax
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Re: Syntax's 4G93T Build

Post by syntax »

UPDATE TIME

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Ok guys i finally got some time between work and other cars to get some done on the FTO.

Its now fully running on the Evo VI RS ecu, using Evo 9 560cc DENSO injectors. On wastegate 8-10psi pressure its tire fry city in 1st :S (dont get to excited only Yoki A.Drive R1 tyres for now)

Problem 1

Non working speedo. This turned out to be a simple issue but i fucked it up and spent hours and hours trying to work it out.

Solution

Near the ECU is the Dash harness. The speed signal goes from the speed sensor to the ECU and splits off to the Dash. Its Yellow-White. THERE ARE TWO YELLOW-WHITES in the dash harness and i didnt think to look for a 2nd. The 2nd is the Cat Temp Sensor Warning light (something the CM5A 4g93T doesnt have btw) so i have no speedo and a flashing Cat Temp light that really confused me. By this time i had the dash in and out 12 times trying to work out the speedo.
As a last option I ran two cables one from the speed sensor to ground and the other directly to the dash input screw on the back of the cluster. Working Speedo!! and the the Cat light went away! Ohhhhhh! look in the hardness there are 2 Yellow-whites. change whites, cut the other yellow white, feeling good about efforts. Get it all back together no speedo again and no cat light!

WTF!! spend countless more hours. Finally fix it want to shoot myself. All the in and out of the dash I had flatted out two of the pins in the dash plug, but i wasnt testing the plug I went straight to the dash input screw on the board. Bend it back up to a arch and all is working just fine.

Problem 2;

The stock ecu + maf hunted all over the place with a bov even with fully recirculation, I tried to tune it out but the 4g93T ecu doesnt have enough options for ISCV (idle stepper) control steps.
With no BOV it idled fine but would stall coming to a stop as the airflow would enter negative numbers (as the compressed air had nowhere to go but back out the filter) so the ECU would pull fuel and stall.

Solution;

Move to the E6 ECU (which was the plan anyways) was able to tune the ISCV steps v temp to a nice smooth idle cold or hot with bov on recirculation.

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Problem 3

The Injectors. the 4g93T had bosch injectors so different plug, not a problem right? break out the soldiering iron and change the plug right?
Yes! but the bosch injectors are shorter then the Denso's they seem to love everywhere else.

Solution

Drill 6mm pilots and 8x1.25 tap new holes in the intake manifold to hold the fuel rail further out then the stock stays. Re-head the plugs to the denso plug happy days.

Note: for those playing along at home Denso's have the Positive side marked with a + on the injector, Bosch has no markings. However almost all ECU driven things are grounded by the ECU not powered by so in the loom will be a common colour across all 4 injectors that's your positive or of course test it with a voltmeter if the colours are mixed.

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The Evo VI ecu fits nicely into the FTO ECU holder, it is a little shorter so drill and tap a hole where the ecu stay bolts will now need to be.

Other little gains from the ECU swap are;
2-Step limiter (this will need hankook RS-3 type tires to be useful)
CELFlash on knock (flashes your engine CEL light if you exceed a certain knock count limit, default is 3)
Bigger table resolution then the 4g93T ecu so easier control.
The option for Speed Density tuning (remove the maf) that i'll end up doing at some point.

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Then I was bored and since I have 4 100m rolls of 3M carbon (I wrap cars as a hobby, cause i dont have enough hobbies) (Matte Red is a hot choice btw) I decided to give the console some love. This worked out great I also had the famous surround break, so I plastic welded it with some ABS on the back and wrapped it. Can barely see the crack now.

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syntax
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Re: Syntax's 4G93T Build

Post by syntax »

My Last Remaining Problem is the Tach.

Its used to counting 3 ignitions per RPM now its 2 per RPM, so right now its off. 4k on the dash is 6k on the motor type out. The plan is to get a lancer CE tach and see if its just a few resistors different.
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Re: Syntax's 4G93T Build

Post by Astron_Boy »

I hate scrolling down to see when something was posted. :evil:

Meanwhile, nice update.
Trial and test is a beautiful thing. lol
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syntax
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Re: Syntax's 4G93T Build

Post by syntax »

Sahin wrote:First of all with the speedo "As a last option I ran two cables one from the speed sensor to ground and the other directly to the dash input screw on the back of the cluster. Working Speedo!! and the the Cat light went away!"
Can you elaborate on this? what wire did you ground and what wire did you send to the input screw on the speedo...? my speedo and odometer wont work and it's been pissing me off for ages I've change everything that it could be and still nothing...
l

First thing Sahin is to check for flatten pins in the dash harness plugs. Unscrew your dash cluster (pull surround and then there are 4 screws to hold it)(i find the easiest way is to turn it flat, gauges up to get it past the surround and steering wheel)
Behind there is two plugs, a Blue and a Brown Plug. The speed sig (Pin 49) is on the bottom row of the brown plug, 5 from the right (the last pin before a bunch or pinless ones coming from the right to left.)(if you unclip the plug its the only yellow cable in that harness) Check if the pin is flatten and if so bend it up to a arch. This may be the simple solution for you.

If its not flattern....

test your speed sensor. The Workshop manual says to pull it out, but you can test it on the car. The speed sensor is on the top side at the back of the gearbox its down past the gear selector cables you may need to remove your battery.
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Its Three wires. 12v+, GND, and Signal.

You will need a Multimeter. Check with the Ignition on. Use the Positive Lead on the voltmeter (normally red) to Black-White of the sensor and the Ground Lead of the Multimeter(Normally Black ) to the car body/engine the Multimeter should read 12v.

Next set the Multimeter to resistance normally a Ω symbol and test between the Black wire and the car body/engine. The Multimeter should change from 1 to something closer to 0, if it stays 1 you have a bad earth. Ghetto fix is solder a cable from there to the neg on the battery

The last step is the sig wire. Its Yellow-White. Its Provided 4.7v+ from the ECU as the speed sensor rotates the voltage will spike down to 0v 4 times for every rotation. Volt test this first, if its not 4.7v+ you have a issue between the speed sensor and the ECU or the ECU is farked.

If it volt tests up ok. next is a driving test, you will need to run a cable from the sensor to the Multimeter in the car and have someone watch it as you drive. You have two choices to do this.
Either cut the yellow-white and solder it back together with a 3rd wire to run into the car, or pull your ECU down onto the floor and jam the Multimeter Red pin into PIN 86 of the ECU and again GND the BLACK pin of the Multimeter (the screw inside the bottom of center hatch is a good ground)

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Now once driving the multimeter should go crazy with the volts trying to keep up with the speed sensor. thats a good thing. If it saying 4.7v+ and doesnt move you have a dead speed sensor.
If it does the problem is in the dash.

Pull the dash again and check the sig pin again with a multimeter for the same 4.7v+. If its not there is a issue between pin 86 on the ecu and the dash harness. (Get the workshop manual and check the voltage at connector B-77 Pin 10) as it goes from the ECU to 77 and then to the pin on the dash.

It the dash pin checks out for 4.7v+ on the back of the cluster there is some screws, these screws join pins on the speedo and tach boards to the wiring board your looking at. You will see on the back some are labeled S, T, +, -
Behind the speedo itself the is a S, a + and a -. Unscrew these warp three wires around each screw with some length and put them back. Put the dash back in. This time check + has 12v+, that - resistance Ω to ground is close to 0 and that S has 4.7v+

If + fails check pin 33 (Black-Yellow) and 48 (Red-Black) in the brown dash plug arent flattened.
If - fails check pin 6 (Black) and 22 (black) in the blue plug arnt flattened.
If S fails to be 4.7v+ it should have failed the first test recheck for a flattened pin.

With the S cable do another drive test for the crazy voltage between 0-4.7v while driving.

If they all check out you have a dead speedometer.

Summary:

a) No 4.7v+ anywhere faulty ECU or wiring
b) 4.7v some places, flatten pins or wiring
c) No voltage drop from 4.7v while driving, faulty speed sensor
d) No 12+ or bad ground on speed sensor, faulty wiring.
e) all checks out, faulty speedometer One on Ebay Here

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Last edited by syntax on Sat Jun 08, 2013 11:31 am, edited 2 times in total.
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vanadinite
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Re: Syntax's 4G93T Build

Post by vanadinite »

Looks amazing! cant wait to see her finished. beside the wiring how hard was the entire conversion? (straight bolt on or extreme modding needed? aside from whats already stated earlier in thread)
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syntax
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Re: Syntax's 4G93T Build

Post by syntax »

Its been extremely easy. The only mods needed were the clutch slave, the starters hole in the sandwich plate, needing Lancer mounts, pump and intercooler really. Oh and a exhaust to suit

I have been amazed at how incestuous the Mitsubishi Models are with parts.

The only large muck around is the ABS its the system in the FTO is completely different to the GSR. Unwrapping boom the FTO and GSR looms and moving the abs harness over turned out to be the easiest option with no troubles.
That brings you to the next problem which is the FTO loom is really hard to get in and out behind the aircon, but again hardly a set back.

The custom wiring was mostly sensors and dash, the motor did run almost straight away as the engine loom was with the motor.

Now all the discovery is done If i had to do it again, could have it done in 3 days.
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vanadinite
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Re: Syntax's 4G93T Build

Post by vanadinite »

syntax wrote: Now all the discovery is done If i had to do it again, could have it done in 3 days.
So would you be willing to help someone else with such a conversion? (for a fee of course ;) )
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Vectose
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Re: Syntax's 4G93T Build

Post by Vectose »

You're going to charge him to help you? :lol:
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A whoooole lot 'o jism 8)
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vanadinite
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Re: Syntax's 4G93T Build

Post by vanadinite »

Vectose wrote:You're going to charge him to help you? :lol:
HAHA other way around. (not sure if this was sarcasm or not :? )
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Re: Syntax's 4G93T Build

Post by Vectose »

It was. Hence the :lol:
Bennoz wrote:
Technikhaus wrote:What is in said Bens big penis by the way?
A whoooole lot 'o jism 8)
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syntax
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Re: Syntax's 4G93T Build

Post by syntax »

MORE UPDATES!!

nothing to excited but this arrived.

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Wideband AFR + Boost Gauge.
- Ring and oled display can be either
- Built in 3hr logging.
- USB interface.
- RPM input for logging and shift light/noise
- Analog AFR and MAP outputs
- Failsafe ranges to cut boost or a relay trigger

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Re: Syntax's 4G93T Build

Post by Astron_Boy »

Nice and neat!
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Connor_1994
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Re: Syntax's 4G93T Build

Post by Connor_1994 »

This is coming along very nicely (:
Makes me miss my fto even more but gives me ideas for my 4g63t

Nice work! (:
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syntax
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Re: Syntax's 4G93T Build

Post by syntax »

So what started as a simple oil leak on the turbo oil return... turned into this


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soooo clean

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and some repaint

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vanadinite
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Re: Syntax's 4G93T Build

Post by vanadinite »

SO what was the issue? sump seal?
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syntax
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Re: Syntax's 4G93T Build

Post by syntax »

no in undoing the oil return i beheaded the bolt (prob why it was leaking) (pretty sure i did it up in the dark one night). Trying to drill it out with a EasyOut on the car seemed dangerous, so it needed to come out anyways so I thought i'd do it right.
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Re: Syntax's 4G93T Build

Post by Shhtuart »

Needs moar updates!
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