DIY: Damaged Noisy Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement

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jonowong
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DIY: Damaged Noisy Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement

Post by jonowong »

Mitsubishi FTO - Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement

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Consumables
-FTO Rear Hub Assembly & Bearing (Part Number: MR131217) ($495)

Tools
-12mm Socket ($4.99)
-14mm Socket ($4.99)
-19mm Socket ($4.99)
-30mm Socket ($14.50)
-380mm Breaker Bar ($14.99)
-Phillips Head Screw Driver ($2)

Total Cost (+tools): ($541.46)
Total Cost (-tools): ($495.00)

.:Introduction:.


Good Wheel Bearing


Bad Wheel Bearing

So that noisy wheel bearing has been annoying you to the point you dont want to drive and the fact that your steering has been pulling to one side even after you've had a wheel alignment? Thats not the only reason you might want to change your wheel bearing as well because as i've been told by various people and mechanics my whole wheel could fall off if i neglect the noisy wheel bearing and if the bearing has failed badly enough.
So do this at your own risk I will not take responsibility for any injury to any persons, personal or third party as this is a recount of what I have done and not to be used as a guide to change your wheel bearings. Remember this is information not instruction!

.:Step 1 - Prepare:.
To prepare, jack up the rear of the car on both sides, once you have done that, release the handbrake and spin the wheels to see which wheel bearing has failed. Using the Youtube videos provided earlier, it is pretty obvious which wheel bearing is the damaged one. Once you know which wheel bearing is damaged, remove your wheel.

.:Step 2 - Releasing Handbrake tension:.
Pull the cup holder out, and you will see what is pictured below. Undo some tension and give the handbrake cable some slack but turning the screw counter clockwise with a 10mm spanner.
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Photo Courtesy of Steve Hemming

.:Step 3 - Removing the Handbrake Cable from the Caliper:.
First begin by pulling the retaining clip off the gold barrel which is the end of the handbrake. After you've done that, use a little screw driver and push the gold barrel away from you, this will push it off the caliper. Once you've done that pull the spring clip off, it could be a bit tight so use needle nose pliers and the screw driver to get it off. Once both these clips are off put them aside and pull the handbrake cable through the spring clip loop.
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Photo Courtesy of Steve Hemming

.:Step 4 - Remove the Caliper:.
Undo the bottom nut labelled in the diagram and you should be able to pivot the caliper up, pull it off the disc and cable tie or with a piece of string, tie it to your springs, this prevents the caliper from hanging and stretching the brake line or kinking it.
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Photo Courtesy of Steve Hemming

.:Step 5 - Remove Caliper Holder:.
Now pull the brake pads out. To Remove the caliper holder remove the 2x14mm nuts pictured below. This is a photo taken from behind. This should just fall out with no dramas. You should be left with whats seen in the second photo.
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.:Step 6 - Removing the Rotor:.
The rotor is now bolted in or secured in anyway, you can simply pull this off, if it is rusted in and refuses to budge. Try pulling violently and shaking it side to
side (This is not recommended if your car is not on jack stands, as a standard jack will collapse but it should be on jack stands anyway). If it is still stubborn and refuses to come off, hit the back of the rotor with a rubber mallet, if a rubber mallet is not available wrap a normal hammer with a t-shirt and hit carefully. After it comes off it should look like this (hub assembly).

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.:Step 7 - Removing the Hub Assembly:.
Undo the 30mm nut pictured above, it will be on really tight, so use a breaker bar. If the breaker isn't enough go grab your vacuum cleaner pipe to extended the breaker bar so you have more force AKA cheater bar. After that nut is off, the hub assembly should pull out with ease.
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.:Step 8 - Finishing Up:.
Put the new hub in and reverse the steps above to put everything back together. Below are some photos of comparison of the new hub to the old hub.
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jonowong
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Post by jonowong »

how the f**k do you embed youtube videos
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Post by TCGPX »

jonowong wrote:how the f*** do you embed youtube videos
I figured it couldn't be done on this forum, I've never seen anyone do it, and I figured Ben woulda done so if it could... (cringes at the thought)

You've been doing some fantastic work here lately Jonowong, this is brilliant!

Keep it up mate :D
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Bennoz
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Post by Bennoz »

Nice DIY 8)

Question thou.... why did you replace the entire hub as opposed to having the bearings pressed out & replaced? $495 is f*cking expensive....

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I have downloaded the Youtube embedded video code, but its some serious code modifications... there's about 15 php forum core files that need to be heavily modified 8O

Might try it when I go back to work after the 14th cause I reckon it would be really cool to have... and make sure I've done a full file structure backup before hand.
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jonowong
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Post by jonowong »

they wont press out!!!

well the mechanic i took it to couldn't press them out!

looking at my old hub assembly, maybe they rusted together, i dunno
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djbust
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Post by djbust »

no you just have to use effort something they wont do :twisted:
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mr-charisma
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Post by mr-charisma »

is it really necessary to replace the entire hub assembly? Nice & shiny & new I know, but from memory it cost me like $35 to have the busted bearings in the front wheels replaced when i was having dramas..
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jonowong
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Post by jonowong »

f**k! why must you guys do this to me...

anyways failed bearings can damaged the hub :P
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mr-charisma
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Post by mr-charisma »

jonowong wrote:f***! why must you guys do this to me...

anyways failed bearings can damaged the hub :P
all good mate.. 'tis another cool guide .. wasn't being an ass, was just worried that mine might need to be replaced at some point.. should've read all the comments :$
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jonowong
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Post by jonowong »

i bought 2 hubs if you want to buy one off me
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Post by cb »

Im doing the front one at the moment as my studs have literally snapped. Its in my garage sitting on car stands and as far as I have got is the wheel off lol. Does anyone know sizes of nuts and how many are needed to take off etc? Cheers
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jonowong
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Post by jonowong »

the part number is the same for the front... so the process should be the same... if not similar
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Post by izonme »

What type of noise would it make?

Is it a funny noise it is like a RESONATING noise?

It sounds like it is coming from under the car could that be it?

The noise dose not happen all the time. It happens when I get the car up to 60km then with the foot off the gas. But the noise will not happen if the engine has load on it.
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jonowong
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Post by jonowong »

watch the youtube links...

in the first post...
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J
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Post by J »

hey jono do u still have that spare hub? My bearing is fuked and id be more happier just replacing the whole hub if the price is right :D

EDIT:are these the same for gpx and gr's?
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jonowong
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Post by jonowong »

yes they are... ive still got it here somewhere...

send me a pm
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J
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Post by J »

ITS MINE! I SHOTGUN!
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J
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Post by J »

PM sent mate
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Post by J »

*** fuk i swear that 32mm bolt is a bitch :evil:
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xSlurpee
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Post by xSlurpee »

its all in the hips they say ;)
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