DIY: Jonos Guide on changing automatic transmission fluid

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jonowong
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DIY: Jonos Guide on changing automatic transmission fluid

Post by jonowong »

Changing Auto Transmission Filter and Fluid on a FTO GPX

Image
Consumables
<li>2x AT Fluid 4L Castrol TQ Dextron III</li>
[2x $24.99] = $49.98
<li>Oil Filter Part No: Mitsubishi MD360935, Coopers Z411</li>
$7.99

Tools
<li>12mm Socket</li>
<li>Socket End</li>
<li>Phillips Head Screw Driver</li>
<li>A Jack</li>
<li>Axel Stands or Blocks of Wood</li>
<li>A Small Funnel</li>

Misc Stuff
<li>Cardboard or Newspaper</li>
<li>Old Tub eg Ice Cream Container or Empty Engine Oil Container</li>
Total Cost: $57.97

.:Disclaimer:.
This is a guide i have written to be used as a supplementary resource to people wanting to do their own mechanical work. No liability can be accepted for any loss, damage or injury caused by undertaking this guide.
Follow this guide at your own risk.



.:Introduction:.
In my opinion Automatic transmission fluid and filter should be replaced every 15,000kms, this fact is often neglected and some even say 50,000kms, in my experience ive noticed that late shifts and unsmooth shifts start happening at about 25,000km of old oil use in my dads camry, and 20,000km in my old ford laser. If you want to check if your car is in need of a transmission fluid and filter change, after a drive pull the transmission dipstick out and check if the fluid is at the "HOT" level, this should be engraved onto the dipstick. Fresh transmission fluid is bright red and a sweet smell kind of like ribena but not quiet. If it is dark or smells burnt then you need a transmission fluid change as soon as possible. It is also a good idea to change it if you are experience late or unsmooth shifting. It is very important to use the right tranmission fluid in your car, check your service manual for the correct type. The FTO GPX is specified to take DIAQueen ATF-SP3 but can also take Dextron III.



.:Step 1 - Jacking the Car Up:.
Before jacking the car up, make sure you are on a level surface, you dont want the car moving while your under it. Once the car is on level ground, jack the car up at the jack points. Once its high enough, place the axel stands or blocks of wood under the car, the purpose of this is so that if the jack fails, the car wont fall on you. DONT GET UNDER A CAR THAT IS ONLY SUPPORTED BY A JACK (unless u want to die). Also NEVER USE BRICKS IN PLACE OF WOOD OR THE AXEL STANDS, this is because bricks crack when the car falls on them.


.:Step 2 - Removing the Intake Pipe:.
Remove the air intake pipe, it will be hose clamped in so just use your phillips head screw driver and loosen it and then yank it out. This just gives you a larger area to work with and also prevents ATF from spilling or spraying on your air filter if its not boxed.
This shows the automatic transmission after the air intake pipe is removed, as you can see you get a lot more room to work with, the black knob sticking up with the white writing is the transmission filter.
Image


.:Step 3 - Drain the ATF Fluid Out:.
There are many ways to drain the ATF Fluid Out but this is the most simple and easiest, remove the 3 bolts under the automatic transmission, adjacent to the transmission pan, these require a 12mm socket, dont attempt to take the transmission pan off as it is secured by atleast 15 bolts and it takes 10minutes to take each of the bolts off because of the lack of area to work with.
The 3 bolts to undo are pictured below. The black coloured metal is the transmission pan.
Image



.:Step 4 - Draining the Rest of the System:.
More than half of the old automatic tranmission fluid stays in the torque convertor, so to drain it you need to disconnect the transmission cooler line that runs to the front of the radiator. I chose the easiest hose to get off, which is pictured below. It is directly under the intake pipe. Use a phillips head screwdriver and undo the hose clamp and then just pull it off. Then aim this hose down to the ground using the tranmission pan as support, it is best to aim it into a ice cream container.
Image

A word of warning this will get messy from here on. So make sure u have cardboard or thick layers of newspaper place on your driveway. Start your engine and move the gear lever throught all the gears for about 1 second and then to neutral and let it run for no more than one minute, if the fluid stops draining earlier than one minute, stop the engine.
Image



.:Step 5 - Cleaning up:.
Now wipe the hose down and the bolts and put them back in place.

.:Step 6 - Replacing the Filter:.
Spin off the old filter and toss it to the side. Now wipe down the surface where the filter was making sure it is clean. Apply a thin layer of new automatic tranmission fluid to the rubber seal on your new tranmission filter by dipping one of your fingers in the new fluid and running it around the seal a few times. Then just spin the new one on only hand tight.

.:Step 7 - Replacing the AT Fluid:.
Remove the dipstick and place the funnel into the tube, pour 5L of the new fluid through the dipstick tube. Now start the engine for 2 minutes then move the lever through all the positions and then move it to neutral. Now check that the fluid is at the COLD level on the dipstick. Top up if necessary. Now drive the car around for about 20minutes so that its at operating tempreture and check that the FLUID is at the HOT level on the dipstick, if not top up the required amount.


Gratz, youve just changed your transmission fluid and filter and saved a lot of money!!!
Last edited by jonowong on Mon Mar 12, 2007 12:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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khunjeng
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Post by khunjeng »

hey mate good stuff...great work
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Re: Jonos Guide on how to change automatic transmission flui

Post by sublime19 »

jonowong wrote:DONT GET UNDER A CAR THAT IS ONLY SUPPORTED BY A JACK (unless u want to die).
ahahah!!

lol nice guide man
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Storm
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Post by Storm »

I drained it the same way to remove my gearbox but after 45 seconds bottled it and stopped the engine. I couldn't have let it go any longer :oops:

(I was caking it to be honest!) :lol:
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Post by payaya »

i know my cars and i also know that without special equipment draining most of your tranny oil is not possible.

When you take it to a professional not only do they drain and replace they flush.
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Post by jonowong »

well for mine one it was
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Post by sublime19 »

yo u should put this up in the DIY bro
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Post by jonowong »

hahaha up to the mods to move it
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Post by smorison »

if you read the fto manual (if you bothered to download it) there's an easier way to drain the tip box .

they say:
1. drive teh car warm it up.
2. disconnect the hose connecting to the radiator (bottom of it there are two)
3. turn the engine on (oh don't forget to place something to catch the oil)
4. the engine pumps out all the oil in about 30 seconds

5. DO NOT RUN THE CAR LONGER THAN 60 SECONDS!!

takes about 3 minutes all up :)
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Post by jonowong »

hehe i wrote that too :P

but it spills sh*t everywhere so to minimise spillage... drain it through the bolts first :P
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Post by smorison »

jonowong wrote:hehe i wrote that too :P

but it spills sh*t everywhere so to minimise spillage... drain it through the bolts first :P

you just need a big drip tray ;) ...
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Post by I8A4RE »

ive got a 94 gr. does any 1 know what auto filter it has cause it dont look like the z411
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Post by JOeJOe »

I went to repco and got the fuel and oil filter today.

Coopers and Ryco they are the same yeah?
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Post by jonowong »

same sh*t different smell... the ryco one just cost more...
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Post by I8A4RE »

omg took ten days to reply to my post and still no answer ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
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Post by jonowong »

i think theres only one other mitsubishi tranny filter... its a lot shorter and wider...
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Post by I8A4RE »

yeah yeah thats mine shorter and wider do u know where i can get one???
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Post by jonowong »

autobahn or mitsubishi.. its about $30 from mitsubishi... and $15 from autpbhan
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Post by I8A4RE »

but i need the part number for autobahn or can i just take the mitsi number and they will cross reference it
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