DIY: Jonos Guide on changing automatic transmission fluid

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JOeJOe
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Post by JOeJOe »

Ask for Ryco brand part no Z411

You can also get a valvoline brand which is the same as the Ryco same part number. Cost about 12 bucks
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jonowong
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Post by jonowong »

Z411 is for the gpx one...

autobahn have a book of part numbers...
well auburn does... and i was told by the guy at autobahn thats theres only 2 AT filters the Z411 and the other one
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khunjeng
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Post by khunjeng »

just an update for everyone to read.

A dextron III type oil is not recomended for the FTO Tip. An SP rated oil II/III is the go and pretty much only avaliable OEM. There are some multis sold but most ppl in the know would touch them.

SP is a Highly Friction Modified ATF....and spec'd for the FTO.

However I know a few ppl who ahve just used a DIII type and had little issue...its all about risk and the longer term I guess.

Just note that SP and Dextron are not the same. The closest to the SP rated ATF is the ATF+3, +4.

I have written a bit more detail in the Oil thread.

Feedback on the shifts etc would be good.
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jonowong
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Post by jonowong »

mine has been ok on dextron III

has anyone had any issues?
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khunjeng
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Post by khunjeng »

jonowong wrote:mine has been ok on dextron III

has anyone had any issues?
If it seems to be shifting ok...then ok

I'm just going by the specs.
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jonowong
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Post by jonowong »

havent really tried An SP rated oil II/III so i have nothing to compare it with
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khunjeng
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Post by khunjeng »

jonowong wrote:havent really tried An SP rated oil II/III so i have nothing to compare it with
Its highly friction modified..much more than Dextron and Mitsi spec it.

But it might not be necessary...as you and another have used a DIII. I know NAcho used a Redline and he reckons its topps.

If I remember I will buy a SpIII from Mitsi this week and change mine. I'm pretty sure when I last got my tip serviced the guy said he had to use OEM oil and it cost a bit...it all makes sense now.

Also pay attention to the Oil filters you use...they make a big difference and the Ryco seems to have caused the most amount of trouble from what I can see trhough my oil and other car forums. I think its just about quality control...some seem fine.

The OM Nissan Oil FIlters perform better than most others...The same seesm to go with the Mitsi ones. Coopers got a good rating and Mobile 1.

I might need to do a bit of a serahc and find some good ones and do a GB so everyone has a good stock of them...
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Post by Nacho »

Look Khungeng! Why don't you just go read Khungeng's guide to oils thread! :lol:
You never get a second chance to make a first impression.
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Post by JOeJOe »

I had dextron III in for about 3 weeks now and it's been ok.

After reading Khunjeng's thread about filters, i think change it on next service to coopers brand. I have ryco atm.
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jonowong
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Post by jonowong »

ive never tried ryco before, but i think ill try a higher quality AT fluid in 15,000km which at this rate will probably be in 4years lol
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khunjeng
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Post by khunjeng »

I bought both OEM fluid (SPIII) and a OEM trans and oil filter from my local mitsi dealer.

5l bottle of ATF (SPII) $25 i got 2
Engine Oil Filter $9
Trans Oil FIlter $25 omg...heheh but I got one anyway.

After all this I realised just but the OEM SPIII as its cheep and u know it will do the job.
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khunjeng
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Post by khunjeng »

OK I did mine tonight....here is what I did and found.

1. Buy all the bits as above
2. Take of the air intake...mine was a hassle cos it has a box etc for my pod.
3. As also suggested look at the two hoses that go to the bottom of the radiator, looking at the front of the car I chose the hose on the left hand side. With a 17mm spanner you can take of the nut - but be prepared for some oil to drain out. Angle it toward a oil tray...
4. Get a big drip tray...also it would be a good idea (although I didn't do it cos I didn't know) to get newspaper and pack it above and around the hose you just took off cos it will sprey all over the place as I found out..
5. Start the car and run for 30-40secs...oil spits out..
6. Let it drip for a while...done
7. I actually checked the 3 drain plugs also but not much oil came out from here after that as expected.
8. Chnage the filter...this is really easy as you have taken off the intake pipe..get your new one, oil up the seal and put it one and do it up tight by hand.
8. If you used a decent oil pan or tray you should be able to see how much oil was drained...mine was 4L or just under...I'II get to this later
8. Fill it up with the new oil...obviously if you took out 4l put back in 4 at least..unless it was overfilled last time. :P Take it slow...I spilt oil all over the place initially - thank god for newspaper..

Now...FTO specs say the Tip box takes 7.8L....hmmm and I only got out 4L so there is 4L left in ther box??? wtf I thought? Then a rememebred Nacho telling me about some crazy theory of chnaging the tip oil, drive for 1000kms or so and drain it again...and maybe even again...I thought how *~dreamy~* was that idea..

Also payaya said in this thread...you can't drain all the oil...so this made some kind of sense...plus I remember this mechanic gy telling me he bought this oil draining machine for like 20k or something...I thought they was a bit crap at the time...but now I understand why.

So...

I will read up how long you need to run the oil in...but my guess is a few hundred kms would do the trick to circulate the new and old oil...then change again...and even again.

2 chnanges have been estimated to get 75% new oil...the third is to make sure u have done the job right...
Last edited by khunjeng on Mon Oct 23, 2006 11:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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khunjeng
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Post by khunjeng »

ok ran the new oil in...then did another drain. This time I used the drain plugs and ran the engine a bit...got more oil out this time...refilled. Off we go.
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jonowong
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Post by jonowong »

i heard if you shift between all the selectors it empties it out abit more on the first change...
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Nacho
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Post by Nacho »

khunjeng wrote:Now...FTO specs say the Tip box takes 7.8L....hmmm and I only got out 4L so there is 4L left in ther box??? wtf I thought?
Did you also remember me telling you that when you change oil and drain it from the sump you only get about 4L-5L of oil and you only drain all 7.8L of the stuff if you're opening up your tranny box? :wink:
You never get a second chance to make a first impression.
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khunjeng
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Post by khunjeng »

Nacho wrote:
khunjeng wrote:Now...FTO specs say the Tip box takes 7.8L....hmmm and I only got out 4L so there is 4L left in ther box??? wtf I thought?
Did you also remember me telling you that when you change oil and drain it from the sump you only get about 4L-5L of oil and you only drain all 7.8L of the stuff if you're opening up your tranny box? :wink:
yeah man..I remembered cos I thought it was wierd at the time. But now it makes sense. So I just did it again after a few hundred kms when i got home again. Seems to be working fine.

I also noticed that previously the oil was over-filled. Its quite hard to tell cos the oil is so thin, this time I filled it slow...ran it and checked. I think I have got it on the Hot section midway now...

anyway seems to be much better. Hows yours going?
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Nacho
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Post by Nacho »

Yeah about the same as when I first put it in there. I don't think it'll get any better over time. It still definitely shifts faster, and less noticably.
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khunjeng
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Post by khunjeng »

Nacho wrote:Yeah about the same as when I first put it in there. I don't think it'll get any better over time. It still definitely shifts faster, and less noticably.
yeah I reckon that redline stuff u usedhas a lot of friction modifiers which makes it quite good...not just your standard DIII type oil.
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BorepYano
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Post by BorepYano »

jono, can you post up the photos again? :?
kiz wrote:
silverGPX wrote:This requires a thread? lol
There's potential for a thread about anything on FTO Australia
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jonowong
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Post by jonowong »

sorry lad i moved it to another server! ill fix it up
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