Shota

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mezje
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Re: Shota

Post by mezje »

rock_it wrote: Duct tape...

As long as the metal is not exposed, it should be ok.. Many cars have peeling clear coat or paint. Fixing won't be too expensive. It is just a matter of peeling it back, then feathering out... Spraying primers and blending in paint.

Depends on how bad the actual area is, as it will determine how much of the car has to be sprayed.
Hm, I had duct tape over it but was worried it would peel off more paint when I took it off, masking tape is on for now, might put a band aid sticker over it for a laugh.

I might tape some sand paper to the inside of something and try get the rust off because it only just formed and a tiny amount is there.
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Re: Shota

Post by rock_it »

Masking tape isn't waterproof..

Good if tape strips more paint off, so you can then see the extent of damage...

I would sand off the bit of rust.. Then primer it.. And maybe add a touch of black paint, or leave the tape on.. You don't want water getting in and getting trapped..
I just had to add it ......
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Re: Shota

Post by dstocks »

Hm, I had duct tape over it but was worried it would peel off more paint when I took it off, masking tape is on for now, might put a band aid sticker over it for a laugh.

I might tape some sand paper to the inside of something and try get the rust off because it only just formed and a tiny amount is there.
Do not use masking tape for any extended period of time. It will react with the paint and destroy it, particularly if it gets wet. It can also pull to paint off the car leaving ugly holes down to the undercoat. I have had friends in the past that have destroyed good paint jobs by leaving it on for more than a month. Ironic that its used to mask when painting. They never leave it on long though
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    mezje
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    Re: Shota

    Post by mezje »

    rock_it wrote:Masking tape isn't waterproof..

    Good if tape strips more paint off, so you can then see the extent of damage...

    I would sand off the bit of rust.. Then primer it.. And maybe add a touch of black paint, or leave the tape on.. You don't want water getting in and getting trapped..
    Not sure my photo really captures it but I can't really sand it, the paint is ~7mm thick and comes away from the car, like it isn't part of the chassis. I will take better pics.

    I will remove the masking tape, try sand off the rust on inside and tape over it where I can. Then I will chuck a sticker over the whole crack.
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    mezje
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    Re: Shota

    Post by mezje »

    So I took it to the mechanic today (Mits-Fix) and they had some pretty sh*t news...

    Almost the whole rear quarter panel is about 7mm of body filler and would need to be fully replaced as it is already cracking badly, my Dad said the same. Apparently this will cost in the high teens and is in all honesty pretty soul crushing.

    Refer to the below pic for what is body filler:
    Image

    I don't know what to do at this point... I don't really have the space or skills to part it out, the engine runs great, timing belt replaced, new battery, everything apart from the body work is pretty damn good, all it really needed for RWC was a battery clamp, new front seat belts and the bump stops replaced.

    Is it possible to just remove a black LHS quarter panel and weld it on? Sad times...
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    Re: Shota

    Post by silverGPX »

    It's been in a crash. Take the interior panel out and have a look for creased and bent metal
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    mezje
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    Re: Shota

    Post by mezje »

    silverGPX wrote:It's been in a crash. Take the interior panel out and have a look for creased and bent metal
    Regardless of chassis damage the panel is going to need to be replaced. Just a question of how best to replace/repair the panel or if I just try and sell it for parts.
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    Re: Shota

    Post by silverGPX »

    Not necessarily, it may just need new filler
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    mezje
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    Re: Shota

    Post by mezje »

    silverGPX wrote:Not necessarily, it may just need new filler
    I was advised this will just crack again due to the amount of filler it needs and the location, do you know roughly how much a having the whole panel filled again would be?
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    Re: Shota

    Post by silverGPX »

    Not that much. It's just filler man, and they've done a bad job, I'd just get it fixed cheap and move onto a new car
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    mezje
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    Re: Shota

    Post by mezje »

    silverGPX wrote:Not that much. It's just filler man, and they've done a bad job, I'd just get it fixed cheap and move onto a new car
    Looking like that could be the best option, not looking forward to trying to sell an unregistered FTO though, not many people wanting them atm...

    If a proper repair on the panel is less than 1.5K or less I can hack it given I got the car for 1 and it has minimal other problems. I will try and get as many quotes as possible for both and see what happens. Seems like I will be car-less for a while now.
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    mezje
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    Re: Shota

    Post by mezje »

    Just got 2 quotes.

    2-3K and 3-4K. They said that I can strip it myself with a grinder, remove any rust and they can refill it easily so it won't need to be done again but I don't really like the idea of just using a filler again, even if it is done properly.

    If anyone wants the car for $1000 they can take it (if you haven't seen my post on the FB page)... 1334XX K's, new timing belt, interior is good, new battery, plenty of tread on the wheels, brakes are all good. I got a RWC and they said it needs; new front strut mounts, front and rear bump stops, passenger side front splash guard. and battery clamp for RWC. The engine bay is far cleaner than in the photos and comes with a battery obviously... Stock airbox can be provided too.
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    Re: Shota

    Post by silverGPX »

    You serious! Keep looking for quotes. It's like an $800 job. But I'd look under the interior panel to see how much it's creased and damaged. It might not even be that bad
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    mezje
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    Re: Shota

    Post by mezje »

    silverGPX wrote:You serious! Keep looking for quotes. It's like an $800 job. But I'd look under the interior panel to see how much it's creased and damaged. It might not even be that bad
    I got 2 quotes and had a mechanic look at it, all reckon about 3k... I will take the interior panels out and have a look though. I'm just not confident nor do I have a grinder to grind it back and remove the rust etc then have it filled again.

    I am happy to do a swap for a clean FTO + cash your way if anyone is interested...
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    Re: Shota

    Post by silverGPX »

    Mechanics aren't qualified to quote on panel damage. Also don't go to a "mainstream" panel beater go to someone smaller. Say you just wanted the existing work to be smoothed out and repainted, say you don't want too much paint blending as the car isn't that expensive.
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    mezje
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    Re: Shota

    Post by mezje »

    silverGPX wrote:Mechanics aren't qualified to quote on panel damage. Also don't go to a "mainstream" panel beater go to someone smaller. Say you just wanted the existing work to be smoothed out and repainted, say you don't want too much paint blending as the car isn't that expensive.
    It is more the fact both of them said underneath will be rusted, which I tend to agree on because under the crack I can see rust. I will try get more quotes I guess but I have a feeling all will end up the same - we will see. A cheap job likely means that it will crack like this again.
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    mezje
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    Re: Shota

    Post by mezje »

    Updates...

    - Fitted the passenger front splash panel
    - Swapped cluster lights with LEDs as they were hardly visible even with the dimmer off.
    - Buddy Club P1s
    - Boot Carpet
    - Stock airbox and new filter in, sounds a whole lot different.

    Having rear quarter panel looked at on Monday, gonna get it cheaply ground and filled.

    The taco dial no longer moves, when the car turns on though the dial moves to 0, gonna give the cluster a wiggle and see if it fixes it. Contact cleaner ok to use on the back of it?

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    Re: Shota

    Post by Supplanter »

    If the tacho isn't working you might need to replace your Ignition Failure Sensor.
    LED ALL the things.
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    dstocks
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    Re: Shota

    Post by dstocks »

    Yep, Ignition Failure Sensor. Think ive got a spare one
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      Re: Shota

      Post by bjk »

      P1s look nice, set off well against the black. Needs more low. :P
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