(now i just have to get my ass into gear and do more fibreglassing, been puttin it off cos i've been busy with work)so for the automatic ones, we'll need to stick an air compressor in the car somewhere?
btw... i think your car is out of rego lol
Who wants Scissor Doors around $2200?- Pictures of progress
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BorepYano
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sounds promissing dude (now i just have to get my ass into gear and do more fibreglassing, been puttin it off cos i've been busy with work)
so for the automatic ones, we'll need to stick an air compressor in the car somewhere?
btw... i think your car is out of rego lol
(now i just have to get my ass into gear and do more fibreglassing, been puttin it off cos i've been busy with work)so for the automatic ones, we'll need to stick an air compressor in the car somewhere?
btw... i think your car is out of rego lol
kiz wrote:There's potential for a thread about anything on FTO AustraliasilverGPX wrote:This requires a thread? lol
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aza013
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umm
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sh*t your right. Just checked it and it expired last month. f**k haven't even been sent a renewal form. i think something must have stuffed up when i changed my plates 
Yeah will need a compressor...unless i work out a way to use linear actuators but they are expensive and will need to be used with the gas strut cos they can't lift much. Anyway just concentratng on getting the hinge working well at the moment.
Yeah will need a compressor...unless i work out a way to use linear actuators but they are expensive and will need to be used with the gas strut cos they can't lift much. Anyway just concentratng on getting the hinge working well at the moment.
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umm
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Just an update.
Well i played around with the strut and got it working right...with the panel off anyway With the panel bolted on, the top strut fitting just touches the inside of the panel and pushes it out a bit when the door is fully up. I grinded it down a bit and got it to not push out the panel but it still scrapes a bit.
I want it to have at least half a centimeter of clearance but that can only be done by moving the strut positioning. But there is no room to move it any further over because it will be in the wheel arch.
So anyway... i'm going to get a new strut made and change the mounting points on both the arm and the bracket, then tune the strut again to feel even through the whole lifting motion.
Another problem i have is that it is a bit wobbly when up. I've never actually felt another car with scissor doors but everyone says they wobble a fair bit and from searching on the net i've found its a common problem and a lot of the companies selling them say its impossible to get rid of all the wobble and even real Lamborghini doors wobble supposedly. This is understandable because even the tiniest little movement at the pivot point of the hinge will mean a lot bigger movement at the end of the door.
But i want to have the most stable doors i can make so i'm changing most of the hinge to minimise wobbling. I'm making the whole arm thicker, adding a piece in at the top to lock it in place when fully raised, increasing the thickness of the part around the pivoting parts, adding a plate on the back of the bracket to stop it bending, adapting it to use bolts that can be used to tighten up the pivoting parts and getting expensive double row angular contact bearings that are designed to handle the axial and radial loads that the arm puts it under. I'm sure that after all of those changes that the only part to flex will be the door itself and the panel the hinge is bolted to and that will only be if you really pull on it.
I'm working all this week at the laser cutting place where i'm getting the parts cut, but i need to get the computer guys in the office to convert my designs into the format that the laser machines read before i can cut them. Tomorrow i'll be showing them the changes i need and hopefully i can get the parts cut this week. I ordered the bearings last tuesday so i should have them this week. Which only leaves the strut but i cant go to the place until saturday because i work 12hr days. Anyway i should have them finished soon as long as no more problems come up.
Do you guys mind having the wires running along the bottom edge of the arm?
Well i played around with the strut and got it working right...with the panel off anyway
With the panel bolted on, the top strut fitting just touches the inside of the panel and pushes it out a bit when the door is fully up. I grinded it down a bit and got it to not push out the panel but it still scrapes a bit.I want it to have at least half a centimeter of clearance but that can only be done by moving the strut positioning. But there is no room to move it any further over because it will be in the wheel arch.
So anyway... i'm going to get a new strut made and change the mounting points on both the arm and the bracket, then tune the strut again to feel even through the whole lifting motion.
Another problem i have is that it is a bit wobbly when up. I've never actually felt another car with scissor doors but everyone says they wobble a fair bit and from searching on the net i've found its a common problem and a lot of the companies selling them say its impossible to get rid of all the wobble and even real Lamborghini doors wobble supposedly. This is understandable because even the tiniest little movement at the pivot point of the hinge will mean a lot bigger movement at the end of the door.
But i want to have the most stable doors i can make so i'm changing most of the hinge to minimise wobbling. I'm making the whole arm thicker, adding a piece in at the top to lock it in place when fully raised, increasing the thickness of the part around the pivoting parts, adding a plate on the back of the bracket to stop it bending, adapting it to use bolts that can be used to tighten up the pivoting parts and getting expensive double row angular contact bearings that are designed to handle the axial and radial loads that the arm puts it under. I'm sure that after all of those changes that the only part to flex will be the door itself and the panel the hinge is bolted to and that will only be if you really pull on it.
I'm working all this week at the laser cutting place where i'm getting the parts cut, but i need to get the computer guys in the office to convert my designs into the format that the laser machines read before i can cut them. Tomorrow i'll be showing them the changes i need and hopefully i can get the parts cut this week. I ordered the bearings last tuesday so i should have them this week. Which only leaves the strut but i cant go to the place until saturday because i work 12hr days. Anyway i should have them finished soon as long as no more problems come up.
Do you guys mind having the wires running along the bottom edge of the arm?
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FtoSam
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umm
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Yeah sorry...went for a holiday for a week and kinda gave up on the thing for a bit... i'm up to my 4th door lifting version at the moment and done atleast 10 changes to each version and kinda ran outta energy to keep trying.BorepYano wrote:um..... or not lolumm wrote:Yeah should be done before autosalon. I'm aiming to get them done this month.
yeah mate how are they coming along?
But i've got it working now
My girlfriends been using it for the last week and it seems to be handling her abuse 
Only problem left is the wiring...the way i have it now is ok but i think it could break the wires after a year or so of use. So i need to find a new path for that.
Also it is sticking into the wheel arch about 5mm or so but i should be able to fix that without too much trouble. Other than that its working perfectly
I'll be making the drivers side this week with the changes i need to make and ordering more gas struts and then they'll be ready for people to test.
I've also started working on the slim side repeaters. The FTO thing behind it is what i'll be making next. I'll start a new post for that later though.
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umm
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And if anyone knows if i need all the wires coming out of the door then let us know because there a 14 to deal with 
. I've figured out that only about 5 are really needed and the rest are just for the electric mirros i guess. It would be so much easier to wire it up if i got rid of the mirrors but i really want to keep everything working.
. I've figured out that only about 5 are really needed and the rest are just for the electric mirros i guess. It would be so much easier to wire it up if i got rid of the mirrors but i really want to keep everything working.Female Turner On-erer
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FtoSam
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umm
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Ok i figured out how to do the wiring and i've made changes to the design to stop it from going into the wheel arch... now i just have to build it and get the strut re adjusted and it should be right to go. I'm finally happy with the design now so this should be the final version.
Test day will hopefully be soon but I'll need to wait to get another strut built for the drivers side door so that may take a while...took them about a month last time even though they told me a week
Test day will hopefully be soon but I'll need to wait to get another strut built for the drivers side door so that may take a while...took them about a month last time even though they told me a week
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Fto_Jason
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Re: Who wants Scissor Doors around $2200?- Pictures of progr
2 years ago but wtf happened to this!!!
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I8A4RE
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Re: Who wants Scissor Doors around $2200?- Pictures of progr
It's completed, look under the parts for sale section.
CHRISTIANITY: The belief that a cosmic Jewish Zombie who was his own father can make you live forever if you symbolically eat his flesh and telepathically tell him you accept him as your master, so he can remove an evil force from your soul that is present in humanity because a rib-woman was convinced by a talking snake to eat from a magical tree...