Rear seats and soundproofing

This forum discusses anything to do with your In Car Entertainment requirements such as. Stereo's, TV screens, Speakers, Navigation Systems, etc

Moderators: IMC, Club Staff

User avatar
RK1-WhiteKnight
Apprentice
Posts: 30
jedwabna poszewka promocja
Joined: Thu Nov 22, 2007 6:00 pm
Location: New Zealand
Contact:

Rear seats and soundproofing

Post by RK1-WhiteKnight »

Hey guys nd gals,

I finally got my sound system in but the boot rattling is killing it, I've read about the whole soundproofing thing but if someone could tell me where to buy it in NZ and any DIY guides would be much appreciated.

Also if anyone knows if any FTO rear seats were made with arm rests in them or if any other Misti rear seats fit the FTO it'd be very much appreciated. If trying to figure out a way to get more of the bass into the cabin without cutting the parcel tray. It should also reduce the boot rattle.
User avatar
Bennoz
National President
Posts: 23668
Joined: Fri Jan 21, 2005 6:00 pm
Location: Sydney
Contact:

Post by Bennoz »

Do a search on this site for Dynamat (may have spelled that wrong, Im sure someone will come along & correct me if I have.) Insulating it is the key apparently.
kid_dynamite
Veteran Mechanic
Posts: 836
Joined: Thu Apr 28, 2005 5:00 pm
Location: sydney

Post by kid_dynamite »

Dynamat, Stinger Roadkill, etc. I know that Jaycar (NZ) has a cheap equivalent (search for 'deadening').

Basically, you need to thoroughly clean the surface you want to deaden (eg use prepsol or a similar wax and grease remover), before you apply.

Look at guides here:
http://dynamat.com/technical_installati ... _menu.html
User avatar
mr-charisma
Oldtimer
Posts: 4020
Joined: Wed Jul 06, 2005 5:00 pm
Location: Brisbane, Australia

Post by mr-charisma »

Aye, Check for Dynamat on ebay ... a bulk pack is what you'll need ... will be enough for the entire boot, with maybe some left over for the doors etc..

You might also find that a lot of the rattling will be coming from your rear parcel shelf as well though .. dynamat won't really help that much there.. but a layer of closed cell foam, or just regular foam / carpet underlay from your local rubber / foam store should do the trick... or talk to a carpeter & see if you can snag some used good cond. underlay
also make sure to stick some around anywhere that any other plastic panels touch metal / other plastic panels - blue tac works a treat if you whack a glob of it on the little Mitsubishi clips that hold em in place too ;)

Also, some expanding foam works great for any grooves / crevices / hollow sections that you can't reach with Dynamat ... just be careful when using that stuff, it expands A LOT & can even have enough force to dent / buckle metal panels if you use too much & it expands too much too fast.. & it sets like concrete ... so go easy with it if you decide to get some

There are other techniques you can use & different products for different things, but if killing rattles is all you're after this should do the trick..

let me know if you're interested in other sound deadening info & i'll send you some linkys...
User avatar
mr-charisma
Oldtimer
Posts: 4020
Joined: Wed Jul 06, 2005 5:00 pm
Location: Brisbane, Australia

Post by mr-charisma »

kid_dynamite wrote:Dynamat, Stinger Roadkill, etc. I know that Jaycar (NZ) has a cheap equivalent (search for 'deadening').

Basically, you need to thoroughly clean the surface you want to deaden (eg use prepsol or a similar wax and grease remover), before you apply.

Look at guides here:
http://dynamat.com/technical_installati ... _menu.html
Personally I wouldn't touch the Jaycar stuff .. 'tis cheap, but there is a reason for it .. you'll need to use 3x as much of it as Dynamat / Stinger Roadkill ... probably something I would be more likely to use for panels that don't really matter that much (I think i'd still go Dynamat / stinger), but definitely for the boot / doors / floorpan /roof I'd go Stinger Roadkill or Dynamat - or both.

With a bulk pack of Dynamat Extreme selling on ebay for $240 you can't go wrong..
User avatar
BorepYano
Forum Moderator
Posts: 4609
Joined: Sat Aug 12, 2006 5:00 pm
Location: Brisbane

Re: Rear seats and soundproofing

Post by BorepYano »

RK1-WhiteKnight wrote: Also if anyone knows if any FTO rear seats were made with arm rests in them or if any other Misti rear seats fit the FTO
i have a sneaking feel that the back seats out of a CE lancer might. if it doesnt then i dont think anything else will. can some one check that for me? (i'm also interested in this, but have no means short of going to the wreckers to really find out), i remember them having the fold down arm rest thing in the middle.
kiz wrote:
silverGPX wrote:This requires a thread? lol
There's potential for a thread about anything on FTO Australia
User avatar
Supplanter
Forum Moderator
Posts: 6417
Joined: Tue Oct 22, 2002 5:00 pm
Location: Arizona Bay
Contact:

Post by Supplanter »

The CE Lancer doesn't have the foldy downy bit in the middle, at least my old coupe didn't.
LED ALL the things.
User avatar
BorepYano
Forum Moderator
Posts: 4609
Joined: Sat Aug 12, 2006 5:00 pm
Location: Brisbane

Post by BorepYano »

Supplanter wrote:The CE Lancer doesn't have the foldy downy bit in the middle, at least my old coupe didn't.
i remember seening an ebay thingo that was selling fto front seats with (i'm pretty sure) CE lancer back seats in leather, and in the photo i can see something that looks like a fold down bit, i'll see if i can still find a link to it... it was a while ago
kiz wrote:
silverGPX wrote:This requires a thread? lol
There's potential for a thread about anything on FTO Australia
User avatar
BorepYano
Forum Moderator
Posts: 4609
Joined: Sat Aug 12, 2006 5:00 pm
Location: Brisbane

Post by BorepYano »

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/MITSUBISHI-LANCE ... dZViewItem

my bad maybe it was an evo thingo.
if anyone was as fanatic as me and can remmeber... i think the list came up a month or so ago when i randomly searched for "fto" on ebay, it came up at something just over $1k for fto front seats and lancer rear seats... (sry to be so vague, it was a while ago)
the back seats in that listing were similar (if not the same) as the one in the link above.

how can i check if that fits or not without going to a wreckers....
kiz wrote:
silverGPX wrote:This requires a thread? lol
There's potential for a thread about anything on FTO Australia
User avatar
mr-charisma
Oldtimer
Posts: 4020
Joined: Wed Jul 06, 2005 5:00 pm
Location: Brisbane, Australia

Post by mr-charisma »

on the topic of rear seats.... I have a feeling that the seats from a Mazda Eunos *might* fit in the FTO ... maybe with a bit of modification .. not sure how the locking clip works on those seats, but my parents have one - have been meaning to rip them out & see how they fit in my car... (they don't like that idea)

I want them cause they look pretty cool & they fold forwards - so it would be perfect for your bass requirements :)

Will update once I have confirmation - maybe this weekend.
User avatar
BorepYano
Forum Moderator
Posts: 4609
Joined: Sat Aug 12, 2006 5:00 pm
Location: Brisbane

Post by BorepYano »

mr-charisma wrote:on the topic of rear seats.... I have a feeling that the seats from a Mazda Eunos *might* fit in the FTO ... maybe with a bit of modification .. not sure how the locking clip works on those seats, but my parents have one - have been meaning to rip them out & see how they fit in my car... (they don't like that idea)

I want them cause they look pretty cool & they fold forwards - so it would be perfect for your bass requirements :)

Will update once I have confirmation - maybe this weekend.
michael, u'll definately need to modify that, the fto back seats have the 2 thingo that clip on to the car at the top of the back, which obviously wont work if it's going ot fold forward.
but let us know. :)
good luck, maybe send your folks on a cruise or something, so they have to leave the car behind lol
kiz wrote:
silverGPX wrote:This requires a thread? lol
There's potential for a thread about anything on FTO Australia
User avatar
mr-charisma
Oldtimer
Posts: 4020
Joined: Wed Jul 06, 2005 5:00 pm
Location: Brisbane, Australia

Post by mr-charisma »

yeah .. I would have to rig up something so that it can clip into place while in the upright position & when you press the lever thing to fold down it can unclip etc.. might involve some kind of bracket or something being welded in for the latch mechanism.. whatever I end up doing, it should definitely be stronger than the supports for the existing rear seats... i fear for my back seat passengers when someone needs to squeeze in the back... & not only because they smack their heads on the rear windscreen when going over bumps .. :P

Oh & Yang, you can have robs rear light - my new pair of rear lights arrived yesterday :)
User avatar
RK1-WhiteKnight
Apprentice
Posts: 30
Joined: Thu Nov 22, 2007 6:00 pm
Location: New Zealand
Contact:

Post by RK1-WhiteKnight »

Cheers for the help. Will probably end up getting Dynamat. Do I need to do the whole boot, no doubt it would be better but it means I'd have to pull everything out AGAIN.

And I might head down to the wreckers in the weekend and see what I can find. I figured the GSR/EVO seats what be similar since there similar sized cars. I have thought about having no rear seats but you get a hell of a lot of road/random noise, although I could easily drown it out :lol:
User avatar
mr-charisma
Oldtimer
Posts: 4020
Joined: Wed Jul 06, 2005 5:00 pm
Location: Brisbane, Australia

Post by mr-charisma »

definitely worth doing your whole boot .. 'tis not too hard to take the lining out - much easier than the interior of the cabin.. but ... just do your boot lid & trust me, you will love the noise reduction & will WANT to do the rest of your boot ASAP.
User avatar
pimped
Grease Monkey
Posts: 100
Joined: Mon Apr 17, 2006 5:00 pm
Location: Sydney

Post by pimped »

take out your rear 6x9s. this will allow for the base to come through. 6x9s don't do much for front passengers anyways.
User avatar
RK1-WhiteKnight
Apprentice
Posts: 30
Joined: Thu Nov 22, 2007 6:00 pm
Location: New Zealand
Contact:

Post by RK1-WhiteKnight »

pimped wrote:take out your rear 6x9s. this will allow for the base to come through. 6x9s don't do much for front passengers anyways.
I tried that but it really didn't make much difference. Plus I've spent a bit of cash on the rears/4ch amp.

Hows everyone else done it??? Surely I'm not the first one to try and get more sound in the cabin
User avatar
mr-charisma
Oldtimer
Posts: 4020
Joined: Wed Jul 06, 2005 5:00 pm
Location: Brisbane, Australia

Post by mr-charisma »

more sound in the cabin or more bass?

I've been in cars where the rear parcel shelf has like 4 x 6" speakers as opposed to a set of 6x9's & the sound you get out of them sh*t all over anything you'll get from 6x9's ...

If you sound proof your boot you're going to get better bass sounds just from that alone... get some extra sound deadening & cover the rear panels & under the seats ... then leave the back seats out ... you'll get addicted to the stuff ;)

Some people might argue this point but ... when you've got a sub, 6x9's are redundant - they're just going to interfere with the bass sounds ... if you're gonna have some back there, fade them out .. Also, I rather like the effect you get from rear mounted mid range speakers if the timing is set right & tuned to the right levels etc.. other people think that it all needs to be up front but its just a matter of opinion..

I agree with Sam about the front speakers - don't think you need to spend insane amounts of money on them though ... you can get some decent speakers without forking out wads of cash... though i'd definitely spend at least $300+
User avatar
pimped
Grease Monkey
Posts: 100
Joined: Mon Apr 17, 2006 5:00 pm
Location: Sydney

Post by pimped »

I've still got 6x9s in the rear but I've turned the gains right down.

I've used dynamat and done both my doors but I am yet to do the rear of the car. I was just thinking of doing the rear parcel shelf, the boot lid and maybe the two plastic parts next to the rear seats.

if you don't wanna buy dynamat off ebay then you can order them through http://www.fhrxstudios.com/ . Marty is a great guy and easy to deal with.
User avatar
nvdfto
Grease Monkey
Posts: 225
Joined: Fri Nov 02, 2007 5:00 pm
Location: Melbourne

Post by nvdfto »

to reduce the boot rattles u should dynamat/stinger roadkill your boot lid and the hole where your spare tyre sits in(just the surrounding only no need for the base of it) and if u have left overs u can it on the side of your boot or the car doors.
even after u done all this and u stil hear rattles on the outside it might mean its come`n from ya spoiler. i dunno if its treatable but i guess there the foam spray thing that u might b able to use. might make it heavier but i dunno. its a spray n then it will expand. u can pick the spray foam at bunnings, but dunno if NZ has it or not.
if u do try the spray thing let us know how it goes.
good luck hope that everyone who gave u info is helpful.
Let the tunes decide
.:[Bosch Australia Automotive Department]:.
User avatar
FtoSam
Oldtimer
Posts: 3924
Joined: Wed Jul 13, 2005 5:00 pm
Location: Brisbane West
Contact:

Post by FtoSam »

Best bet is to sound deaden (Using Dynamat) your entire car...

Front Doors
Rear Quarters
Entire Boot
Roof

Then just make sure your sub is secured... Power cables are all run away from signal wires... Good quality Groundings... Well tuned Amps and EQs..

After that its down to your system... if you want more bass... buy another sub... or better ones... or better amps... etc etc...

Removing 6x9s wont do much at all.. unless you're talking 3000Wrms+
Image

If you need good deal on photography, let me know.
Post Reply