DIY: Damaged Noisy Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement
Posted: Fri Dec 21, 2007 2:11 am
Mitsubishi FTO - Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement
Consumables
-FTO Rear Hub Assembly & Bearing (Part Number: MR131217) ($495)
Tools
-12mm Socket ($4.99)
-14mm Socket ($4.99)
-19mm Socket ($4.99)
-30mm Socket ($14.50)
-380mm Breaker Bar ($14.99)
-Phillips Head Screw Driver ($2)
Total Cost (+tools): ($541.46)
Total Cost (-tools): ($495.00)
.:Introduction:.
Good Wheel Bearing
Bad Wheel Bearing
So that noisy wheel bearing has been annoying you to the point you dont want to drive and the fact that your steering has been pulling to one side even after you've had a wheel alignment? Thats not the only reason you might want to change your wheel bearing as well because as i've been told by various people and mechanics my whole wheel could fall off if i neglect the noisy wheel bearing and if the bearing has failed badly enough.
So do this at your own risk I will not take responsibility for any injury to any persons, personal or third party as this is a recount of what I have done and not to be used as a guide to change your wheel bearings. Remember this is information not instruction!
.:Step 1 - Prepare:.
To prepare, jack up the rear of the car on both sides, once you have done that, release the handbrake and spin the wheels to see which wheel bearing has failed. Using the Youtube videos provided earlier, it is pretty obvious which wheel bearing is the damaged one. Once you know which wheel bearing is damaged, remove your wheel.
.:Step 2 - Releasing Handbrake tension:.
Pull the cup holder out, and you will see what is pictured below. Undo some tension and give the handbrake cable some slack but turning the screw counter clockwise with a 10mm spanner.
Photo Courtesy of Steve Hemming
.:Step 3 - Removing the Handbrake Cable from the Caliper:.
First begin by pulling the retaining clip off the gold barrel which is the end of the handbrake. After you've done that, use a little screw driver and push the gold barrel away from you, this will push it off the caliper. Once you've done that pull the spring clip off, it could be a bit tight so use needle nose pliers and the screw driver to get it off. Once both these clips are off put them aside and pull the handbrake cable through the spring clip loop.
Photo Courtesy of Steve Hemming
.:Step 4 - Remove the Caliper:.
Undo the bottom nut labelled in the diagram and you should be able to pivot the caliper up, pull it off the disc and cable tie or with a piece of string, tie it to your springs, this prevents the caliper from hanging and stretching the brake line or kinking it.
Photo Courtesy of Steve Hemming
.:Step 5 - Remove Caliper Holder:.
Now pull the brake pads out. To Remove the caliper holder remove the 2x14mm nuts pictured below. This is a photo taken from behind. This should just fall out with no dramas. You should be left with whats seen in the second photo.
.:Step 6 - Removing the Rotor:.
The rotor is now bolted in or secured in anyway, you can simply pull this off, if it is rusted in and refuses to budge. Try pulling violently and shaking it side to
side (This is not recommended if your car is not on jack stands, as a standard jack will collapse but it should be on jack stands anyway). If it is still stubborn and refuses to come off, hit the back of the rotor with a rubber mallet, if a rubber mallet is not available wrap a normal hammer with a t-shirt and hit carefully. After it comes off it should look like this (hub assembly).
.:Step 7 - Removing the Hub Assembly:.
Undo the 30mm nut pictured above, it will be on really tight, so use a breaker bar. If the breaker isn't enough go grab your vacuum cleaner pipe to extended the breaker bar so you have more force AKA cheater bar. After that nut is off, the hub assembly should pull out with ease.
.:Step 8 - Finishing Up:.
Put the new hub in and reverse the steps above to put everything back together. Below are some photos of comparison of the new hub to the old hub.
Consumables
-FTO Rear Hub Assembly & Bearing (Part Number: MR131217) ($495)
Tools
-12mm Socket ($4.99)
-14mm Socket ($4.99)
-19mm Socket ($4.99)
-30mm Socket ($14.50)
-380mm Breaker Bar ($14.99)
-Phillips Head Screw Driver ($2)
Total Cost (+tools): ($541.46)
Total Cost (-tools): ($495.00)
.:Introduction:.
Good Wheel Bearing
Bad Wheel Bearing
So that noisy wheel bearing has been annoying you to the point you dont want to drive and the fact that your steering has been pulling to one side even after you've had a wheel alignment? Thats not the only reason you might want to change your wheel bearing as well because as i've been told by various people and mechanics my whole wheel could fall off if i neglect the noisy wheel bearing and if the bearing has failed badly enough.
So do this at your own risk I will not take responsibility for any injury to any persons, personal or third party as this is a recount of what I have done and not to be used as a guide to change your wheel bearings. Remember this is information not instruction!
.:Step 1 - Prepare:.
To prepare, jack up the rear of the car on both sides, once you have done that, release the handbrake and spin the wheels to see which wheel bearing has failed. Using the Youtube videos provided earlier, it is pretty obvious which wheel bearing is the damaged one. Once you know which wheel bearing is damaged, remove your wheel.
.:Step 2 - Releasing Handbrake tension:.
Pull the cup holder out, and you will see what is pictured below. Undo some tension and give the handbrake cable some slack but turning the screw counter clockwise with a 10mm spanner.
Photo Courtesy of Steve Hemming
.:Step 3 - Removing the Handbrake Cable from the Caliper:.
First begin by pulling the retaining clip off the gold barrel which is the end of the handbrake. After you've done that, use a little screw driver and push the gold barrel away from you, this will push it off the caliper. Once you've done that pull the spring clip off, it could be a bit tight so use needle nose pliers and the screw driver to get it off. Once both these clips are off put them aside and pull the handbrake cable through the spring clip loop.
Photo Courtesy of Steve Hemming
.:Step 4 - Remove the Caliper:.
Undo the bottom nut labelled in the diagram and you should be able to pivot the caliper up, pull it off the disc and cable tie or with a piece of string, tie it to your springs, this prevents the caliper from hanging and stretching the brake line or kinking it.
Photo Courtesy of Steve Hemming
.:Step 5 - Remove Caliper Holder:.
Now pull the brake pads out. To Remove the caliper holder remove the 2x14mm nuts pictured below. This is a photo taken from behind. This should just fall out with no dramas. You should be left with whats seen in the second photo.
.:Step 6 - Removing the Rotor:.
The rotor is now bolted in or secured in anyway, you can simply pull this off, if it is rusted in and refuses to budge. Try pulling violently and shaking it side to
side (This is not recommended if your car is not on jack stands, as a standard jack will collapse but it should be on jack stands anyway). If it is still stubborn and refuses to come off, hit the back of the rotor with a rubber mallet, if a rubber mallet is not available wrap a normal hammer with a t-shirt and hit carefully. After it comes off it should look like this (hub assembly).
.:Step 7 - Removing the Hub Assembly:.
Undo the 30mm nut pictured above, it will be on really tight, so use a breaker bar. If the breaker isn't enough go grab your vacuum cleaner pipe to extended the breaker bar so you have more force AKA cheater bar. After that nut is off, the hub assembly should pull out with ease.
.:Step 8 - Finishing Up:.
Put the new hub in and reverse the steps above to put everything back together. Below are some photos of comparison of the new hub to the old hub.
