performance
Moderators: IMC, Club Staff
- Froto.gr
- Grease Monkey
- Posts: 106
- jedwabna poszewka promocja
- Joined: Wed May 12, 2010 7:58 am
- Location: Ireland
performance
ello,quick ques for nitros what ecu should do well with it,its a fto gr,can i gain much bhp,and will bottle of nos last long,is it worth it,and what company to buy from,,cheers guys..
- aza013
- NSW Coordinator
- Posts: 9087
- Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2007 5:00 pm
- Location: The Shire
- Contact:
Re: performance
Ben will be the best person to answer that question for you.
- Froto.gr
- Grease Monkey
- Posts: 106
- Joined: Wed May 12, 2010 7:58 am
- Location: Ireland
Re: performance
is urs a gr mate,what u done,ive been working on engine jus got car but sat up till next week and get it all smooth,wanna no some options for car,what setup is your ecu,,?
- aza013
- NSW Coordinator
- Posts: 9087
- Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2007 5:00 pm
- Location: The Shire
- Contact:
Re: performance
I have a GP VR mivec
things done are :-
port and polish and port match.
heads shaved
supper high flow cat
haltech interceptor piggy back ecu
UAS air pipe
uni filter pod
CAI ram pipe
breaks are vented and slotted with EBC blue stuff pads
battery moved to the boot
oil catch tank
mivec controller
weight loss for the car (lost about 40+kgs) still looking to get more out of it.
thats all i can think of at this time
The best thing for you having a GR is you can add a turbo it with out having to worry about oil feed problems and other things that the mivecs have with turbos.
things done are :-
port and polish and port match.
heads shaved
supper high flow cat
haltech interceptor piggy back ecu
UAS air pipe
uni filter pod
CAI ram pipe
breaks are vented and slotted with EBC blue stuff pads
battery moved to the boot
oil catch tank
mivec controller
weight loss for the car (lost about 40+kgs) still looking to get more out of it.
thats all i can think of at this time
The best thing for you having a GR is you can add a turbo it with out having to worry about oil feed problems and other things that the mivecs have with turbos.
- Froto.gr
- Grease Monkey
- Posts: 106
- Joined: Wed May 12, 2010 7:58 am
- Location: Ireland
Re: performance
that is sweet car list mate,you got it all done,can you tell me bout brakes,ive covered engine smooth,want to get brakes now at good prce and response please,then suspension,,cool cars the fto have you got yours long what year is it hige low miles done,any carbon fiber on it i love the stuff,hahalol,,
- Froto.gr
- Grease Monkey
- Posts: 106
- Joined: Wed May 12, 2010 7:58 am
- Location: Ireland
Re: performance
how you lose the weight on your car that good load out man,,?
- aza013
- NSW Coordinator
- Posts: 9087
- Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2007 5:00 pm
- Location: The Shire
- Contact:
Re: performance
For the brakes what are you going to be doing with the car, are you going to have it on the race track and street, or just street?
In the way of CF on the car I have the boot lid so far still thinking about what bonnet to get.
It's a 1997 with 109'000K on the car but only 50'000 on the engine.
In the way of CF on the car I have the boot lid so far still thinking about what bonnet to get.
It's a 1997 with 109'000K on the car but only 50'000 on the engine.
- aza013
- NSW Coordinator
- Posts: 9087
- Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2007 5:00 pm
- Location: The Shire
- Contact:
Re: performance
I just take out anything I don't need in the car, replace things with light weight stuff and so on.Froto.gr wrote:how you lose the weight on your car that good load out man,,?
- Froto.gr
- Grease Monkey
- Posts: 106
- Joined: Wed May 12, 2010 7:58 am
- Location: Ireland
Re: performance
im going to be on track days,an just road mostly,an wont be major power bar airflow exsust,ecu,so on,so want brakes to suit,sure they wont last till cash there for turbo i hope,plus maybe you can fill me in little on it for gr or you no posts on the site,ill do some weight losen meself,like the cf boot some nice hoods out there,
- vipfto
- Forum Moderator
- Posts: 4154
- Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2007 5:00 pm
- Location: Adelaide
Re: performance
Yip mines gr
engine mods are
HKS pod with CAI and intake to throttle body
Larger throttle body and intake manifold plenum
extractors
high flow cat (de cat pipe sometimes )
2.5inch mandrel exhaust
Greedy emange blue ECU (still needs to be dyno tuned )
iridium plugs and larger leads
FPR
think thats about it for actual motor mods anyway
My brakes are off early EVO with slotted rotors and good pads and fluid its pulls up really nice but without abs can lock up fairly easy if not careful too
engine mods are
HKS pod with CAI and intake to throttle body
Larger throttle body and intake manifold plenum
extractors
high flow cat (de cat pipe sometimes )
2.5inch mandrel exhaust
Greedy emange blue ECU (still needs to be dyno tuned )
iridium plugs and larger leads
FPR
think thats about it for actual motor mods anyway
My brakes are off early EVO with slotted rotors and good pads and fluid its pulls up really nice but without abs can lock up fairly easy if not careful too
FTO GR-TURBO
172KW ATW @ 11PSI
172KW ATW @ 11PSI
- aza013
- NSW Coordinator
- Posts: 9087
- Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2007 5:00 pm
- Location: The Shire
- Contact:
Re: performance
A good upgraid for the brakes would be the GPX setup and the slotted rotors with EBC red stuff pads. Any thing more than that would be a over kill for what you need.
- Froto.gr
- Grease Monkey
- Posts: 106
- Joined: Wed May 12, 2010 7:58 am
- Location: Ireland
Re: performance
sweet you 2nd person 2 say that prob go with it,but what disc 2 use,aza013 wrote:A good upgraid for the brakes would be the GPX setup and the slotted rotors with EBC red stuff pads. Any thing more than that would be a over kill for what you need.
- Froto.gr
- Grease Monkey
- Posts: 106
- Joined: Wed May 12, 2010 7:58 am
- Location: Ireland
Re: performance
cant wait to get tuneing my car with mods,but wanna get brake handle and then power,thanks for advice on brakes man going to go with gpx upgrade till more needed spend cash else where for now,let me know of other opions for fto,coolvipfto wrote:Yip mines gr
engine mods are
HKS pod with CAI and intake to throttle body
Larger throttle body and intake manifold plenum
extractors
high flow cat (de cat pipe sometimes )
2.5inch mandrel exhaust
Greedy emange blue ECU (still needs to be dyno tuned )
iridium plugs and larger leads
FPR
think thats about it for actual motor mods anyway
My brakes are off early EVO with slotted rotors and good pads and fluid its pulls up really nice but without abs can lock up fairly easy if not careful too
- vipfto
- Forum Moderator
- Posts: 4154
- Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2007 5:00 pm
- Location: Adelaide
Re: performance
Froto.gr wrote:sweet you 2nd person 2 say that prob go with it,but what disc 2 use,aza013 wrote:A good upgraid for the brakes would be the GPX setup and the slotted rotors with EBC red stuff pads. Any thing more than that would be a over kill for what you need.
just slotted mate they are 276mm for your side of the world id def go with black diamond
FTO GR-TURBO
172KW ATW @ 11PSI
172KW ATW @ 11PSI
- Bennoz
- National President
- Posts: 23668
- Joined: Fri Jan 21, 2005 6:00 pm
- Location: Sydney
- Contact:
Re: performance
I was using a Type A Unichip at the time. Having said that though, the tune on the ECU remains pretty much untouched.Froto.gr wrote:ello,quick ques for nitros what ecu should do well with it,its a fto gr,can i gain much bhp,and will bottle of nos last long,is it worth it,and what company to buy from,,cheers guys..
The tuning when you put nitrous on is to match fuel & nos jet sizing - the fuel jet is approx 6 x bigger than the nos jet
(this is assuming you have a wet shot setup, which is regarded as the easiest & safest for a daily driver.)
The kit is a genuine NOS kit, comes with all lines, 12lb bottle, microswitch etc etc. Was about $2450 installed.
Your first bottle of nos will last you about 10 minutes. After the novelty wears off, I was using about a bottle a month.... at $110 a refill.
On the track, say Oran park, I would use a pound a lap - 12lb bottle has 10 pounds usable gas in it, 2 pounds residual. So I'd get 10 laps
before having to come in for a refill. One day I ran about 60 laps, so used over $650 bucks worth of it.
Power wise, my GR went from 125 odd kws, to 165kws using a 100hp shot. I probably could have gone to a 150 shot, more power but
use up the gas quicker. Any more than a 200hp shot, then you have the added expense of having a purge system so's not blow any air in
before the shot.
Eventually the nos saw the end of the motor. Not that it was installed wrong, but an overzealous mechanic opened up the switch far too
early in the rev range at a dyno day. The result was a nos backfire that blew the rings outta 1,4 & 6 cylinders. I was standing 20 metres away
& almost caught the intake pipe as it flew past me.
- Froto.gr
- Grease Monkey
- Posts: 106
- Joined: Wed May 12, 2010 7:58 am
- Location: Ireland
Re: performance
all in all its not bad bang for your buck as long as the intake pipe dont bang you first, ,Bennoz wrote:I was using a Type A Unichip at the time. Having said that though, the tune on the ECU remains pretty much untouched.Froto.gr wrote:ello,quick ques for nitros what ecu should do well with it,its a fto gr,can i gain much bhp,and will bottle of nos last long,is it worth it,and what company to buy from,,cheers guys..
The tuning when you put nitrous on is to match fuel & nos jet sizing - the fuel jet is approx 6 x bigger than the nos jet
(this is assuming you have a wet shot setup, which is regarded as the easiest & safest for a daily driver.)
The kit is a genuine NOS kit, comes with all lines, 12lb bottle, microswitch etc etc. Was about $2450 installed.
Your first bottle of nos will last you about 10 minutes. After the novelty wears off, I was using about a bottle a month.... at $110 a refill.
On the track, say Oran park, I would use a pound a lap - 12lb bottle has 10 pounds usable gas in it, 2 pounds residual. So I'd get 10 laps
before having to come in for a refill. One day I ran about 60 laps, so used over $650 bucks worth of it.
Power wise, my GR went from 125 odd kws, to 165kws using a 100hp shot. I probably could have gone to a 150 shot, more power but
use up the gas quicker. Any more than a 200hp shot, then you have the added expense of having a purge system so's not blow any air in
before the shot.
Eventually the nos saw the end of the motor. Not that it was installed wrong, but an overzealous mechanic opened up the switch far too
early in the rev range at a dyno day. The result was a nos backfire that blew the rings outta 1,4 & 6 cylinders. I was standing 20 metres away
& almost caught the intake pipe as it flew past me.
so first of you say you use a type A Unichip hear ther pretty neat for fuel an ignition parameters,and can open up new timing on feul and ignition,
is type A uni a full ECU or can i hook it to factory wires on ECU on car standered, ,
when you say your ECU remains pretty much the same is that same unchip grade A still in for turbo, ,
im just at moment looking at nitro but love turbo's,
- StraydoG
- Apprentice
- Posts: 99
- Joined: Tue Jan 02, 2007 6:00 pm
- Location: Auckland, NZ
Re: performance
Since we are talking about general performance I will thread steal instead of creating a new one.
Intake, aftermarket normal vs pod filter. Is there much difference? Im thinking of getting bigger pipes from the box to the throttlebody and bigger pipes feeding air into the box with an aftermarket filter. Is it likely to help much or are pods a better way of going?
Intake, aftermarket normal vs pod filter. Is there much difference? Im thinking of getting bigger pipes from the box to the throttlebody and bigger pipes feeding air into the box with an aftermarket filter. Is it likely to help much or are pods a better way of going?
- aza013
- NSW Coordinator
- Posts: 9087
- Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2007 5:00 pm
- Location: The Shire
- Contact:
Re: performance
You will get some more power out of that even with a standard filter.
To help the flow of air I would say get a K&N filter to replace the stock filter.
There won't be a lot of power added with just induction but it all adds up in the long run.
To help the flow of air I would say get a K&N filter to replace the stock filter.
There won't be a lot of power added with just induction but it all adds up in the long run.
- Bennoz
- National President
- Posts: 23668
- Joined: Fri Jan 21, 2005 6:00 pm
- Location: Sydney
- Contact:
Re: performance
Type A Unichips are considered very old in ECU terms. Only selected garages can tune them due to the complexity & expenseFroto.gr wrote:all in all its not bad bang for your buck as long as the intake pipe dont bang you first, ,Bennoz wrote:I was using a Type A Unichip at the time. Having said that though, the tune on the ECU remains pretty much untouched.Froto.gr wrote:ello,quick ques for nitros what ecu should do well with it,its a fto gr,can i gain much bhp,and will bottle of nos last long,is it worth it,and what company to buy from,,cheers guys..
The tuning when you put nitrous on is to match fuel & nos jet sizing - the fuel jet is approx 6 x bigger than the nos jet
(this is assuming you have a wet shot setup, which is regarded as the easiest & safest for a daily driver.)
The kit is a genuine NOS kit, comes with all lines, 12lb bottle, microswitch etc etc. Was about $2450 installed.
Your first bottle of nos will last you about 10 minutes. After the novelty wears off, I was using about a bottle a month.... at $110 a refill.
On the track, say Oran park, I would use a pound a lap - 12lb bottle has 10 pounds usable gas in it, 2 pounds residual. So I'd get 10 laps
before having to come in for a refill. One day I ran about 60 laps, so used over $650 bucks worth of it.
Power wise, my GR went from 125 odd kws, to 165kws using a 100hp shot. I probably could have gone to a 150 shot, more power but
use up the gas quicker. Any more than a 200hp shot, then you have the added expense of having a purge system so's not blow any air in
before the shot.
Eventually the nos saw the end of the motor. Not that it was installed wrong, but an overzealous mechanic opened up the switch far too
early in the rev range at a dyno day. The result was a nos backfire that blew the rings outta 1,4 & 6 cylinders. I was standing 20 metres away
& almost caught the intake pipe as it flew past me.
so first of you say you use a type A Unichip hear ther pretty neat for fuel an ignition parameters,and can open up new timing on feul and ignition,
is type A uni a full ECU or can i hook it to factory wires on ECU on car standered, ,
when you say your ECU remains pretty much the same is that same unchip grade A still in for turbo, ,
im just at moment looking at nitro but love turbo's,
of becoming certified & getting the correct cables to do so. Its A/F mapping ability was very coarse, with very few map points available
compared to todays ECU's. It was a piggyback.
You want the ducks guts, go Haltech. The piggyback we use is the Interceptor Platinum.
Or if you go the whole hog & standalone it, go for a Platinum Sport 1000.
- Froto.gr
- Grease Monkey
- Posts: 106
- Joined: Wed May 12, 2010 7:58 am
- Location: Ireland
Re: performance
:[/quote]
Type A Unichips are considered very old in ECU terms. Only selected garages can tune them due to the complexity & expense
of becoming certified & getting the correct cables to do so. Its A/F mapping ability was very coarse, with very few map points available
compared to todays ECU's. It was a piggyback.
You want the ducks guts, go Haltech. The piggyback we use is the Interceptor Platinum.
Or if you go the whole hog & standalone it, go for a Platinum Sport 1000.[/quote]
So i take it haltech is most popurler down under,or does it work best with fto as some ecu's can work better in diff car's,is motech big in aus or is haltech/motech same,
which i think they are quote me,and if you can give me inbeteewen price range on haltec please,cause motech big money aswell DUCKS GUTS haha,
cost arm and leg which i will spear for top ecu just 1 will be cheaper this way and hopefully same thing,
thank's.
Type A Unichips are considered very old in ECU terms. Only selected garages can tune them due to the complexity & expense
of becoming certified & getting the correct cables to do so. Its A/F mapping ability was very coarse, with very few map points available
compared to todays ECU's. It was a piggyback.
You want the ducks guts, go Haltech. The piggyback we use is the Interceptor Platinum.
Or if you go the whole hog & standalone it, go for a Platinum Sport 1000.[/quote]
So i take it haltech is most popurler down under,or does it work best with fto as some ecu's can work better in diff car's,is motech big in aus or is haltech/motech same,
which i think they are quote me,and if you can give me inbeteewen price range on haltec please,cause motech big money aswell DUCKS GUTS haha,
cost arm and leg which i will spear for top ecu just 1 will be cheaper this way and hopefully same thing,
thank's.