FTO AUSTRALIA

Hi everyone, name's Christian and I'm a member from Ozvr4 and been a Galant enthusiast since 2001, I've been a long time lurker and thought I'd come out of the shadows to offer something that us 6A series engine owners need

I have been in contact with Bennoz and have asked permission to ask here and he's given me the go signal..

anyway, as the title says, who's running a kit with stock ecu? any of you guys want a kit?

its been tested on the 6A13TT and have shown improvements with acceleration, fuel economy, and spark consistency.. currently there are 3 cars (was 4 - one member borrowed mine and is keeping it ) that are running with these kit. and all of them have had no dramas with it..

I was wondering if there's anyone in QLD who wouldn't mind being a test car, say for a week or 2.. I will need a GR and GPX models to install it on.. as I need to know if there'll be improvements or downfall..

anyway, let me know what your opinions or suggestions are.. as I welcome it

here's a quick vid of my car's start up..
http://youtu.be/xXKqjA2zoq0

Umm What is it?

Ive got coilpacks on the front 3 sparkplugs? and then there connected from them to the rear? Im confused

silverGPX wrote:Umm What is it?

sorry.. I thought everyone would've known what they are..

basically, you replace your 3 oem ignition coils with 6 individual ones that sit right on top of the spark plugs..

no High tension wires to worry about..

here are some more pics..

rear bank


front bank


with the kit completely setup..



and here's what's included in a kit..

Wouldn't it be the same? because the one coilpack doesnt have to be as powerful power another sparkplug?

How does it make it better? Or is that what makes it better as the one coilpack doesnt have to power 2 plugs.

Also i wouldnt mind trialing it but im in brisbane? Whereabouts are you located

silverGPX wrote:Ive got coilpacks on the front 3 sparkplugs? and then there connected from them to the rear? Im confused

with the stock mitsubishi setup, we have 3 coils.. each coils are twin output, which are driving 2 cylinders.. and unfortunately there are no ways to shut off the secondary output.. hence the replacement of the whole ignition coils.. and besides they're weak, specially if you have turbo charged engines..

So the only gain is it helps with turbo charged engines

silverGPX wrote:Wouldn't it be the same? because the one coilpack doesnt have to be as powerful power another sparkplug?

what do you mean by 'the same?' the sparks provided to all of your spark plugs should be the same.. if one is cylinder isn't getting enough spark, that will usually end in more $$$, due to the damage it can cause, first thing that'll happen is you'll lose power, then your spark plugs will foul itself due to fuel not getting enough sparks..

silverGPX wrote:How does it make it better? Or is that what makes it better as the one coilpack doesnt have to power 2 plugs.

better spark = better combustion = better performance & less fuel injected into your engine.. in theory anyway..

1 coil per cylinder, so it's power isn't divided into 2..

silverGPX wrote:Also i wouldnt mind trialing it but im in brisbane? Whereabouts are you located

I'm in Brisbane too.. my parent's are at Woodridge, which where my tools and equipments are..

how about you? where are you located, is yours manual or auto?

Shenal wrote:So the only gain is it helps with turbo charged engines

most of the time yes, that is why I would like to have a test car.. to find out whether it helps the naturally aspirated cars as well.. my gut feeling is.. it'll help with economy, and acceleration specially from mid to top end of the rev range.. specially with the mivec models, as the oem coils can't provide enough spark, where as with these coils, they have been proven to be consistent with providing spark..

same setup is used on the vr4 & evo 4g63t, and similar to the RB26's.. with the toyota's it's pretty much plug n play cause it's what they use..

I like the idea, I mean come on, theres a reason that proper high power cars dont go down the "wasted spark" route.

What would the costs be and is it plug and play or do you have to modify the loom at all?

Storm wrote:I like the idea, I mean come on, theres a reason that proper high power cars dont go down the "wasted spark" route.

What would the costs be and is it plug and play or do you have to modify the loom at all?

you don't need to modify your loom in anyway, its plug n play, which makes things easy.. also plates and o-rings/hoses included to stop dust, fluids from getting into the spark plug hole..

the wires provided are 18ga tefzel military grade wires (bought from spoolinup.com) which can withstand 250*C of heat..

the sad part.. pricing I'm selling it at $725 a kit..

It will be interesting to see some befor and after power readings on these things in a NA FTO.

aza013 wrote:It will be interesting to see some befor and after power readings on these things in a NA FTO.

me too

I know in the 6A13TT, it didnt give out an extra kw.. but it gave out consistent power delivery even after 50 pulls.. which usually is the time the engine bay is at its most hottest..

so who's up for being a test car in brisbane?

Here are my requirements for the test car..

-car owner should have a recent dyno print out.. if not, try to get one from a dyno center, I can go half with the cost if you want..
-car must be in good condition, as in 'mechanically good condition' - engine, transmission, suspension, brakes etc. if you need help with this I can help.. as my dad's a mech and I do most of the work on my car too unfortunately the car owner will have to foot the bill as this is his/her responsibility..

After the install, I will ride with you in the car to log what the ecu see's, unfortunately I can only log the knocks, rpm, timing advance, temp and others as I don't have a wideband and this would've been the best time to have it.. does anyone here got 1 to lend?

also I suggest spark plug is also installed at the same time as the COP install.. preferably iridiums.. if you don't have it let me know as I can get them..

Once happy with the joy riding.. I'll let the car owner use the COP for a week or 2.. then he must put the car on a dyno from the same workshop where he/she had it done before..

Also the car owner should keep track of his fuel consumption per fill so that he/she knows how much he's using..

hope my requirements aren't too much.. its just that I would like the test to be as realistic as possible.. and as usual I'm open to suggestions/opinions

The only way to test these on the dyno is on the same dyno on the same day.

Any results you get otherwise are worthless. Also to test any benefit the plugs should be the same on both runs. Don't upgrade to Iridium plugs at the same time you install the coils. Always test one item at a time if you want to get a true indication of any benefits.

Then finally, again on the same day on the same dyno, you should then remove the new coils and reinstall the originals, and test again. This then confirms the original power run to ensure any gains seen are not due to other factors.

To summarise;
Base power run with stock coils.
Install new coils.
Power run with new coils.
Install original stock coils.
Power run with stock coils. This should yield the same power figures as the base run. If not then your test is flawed, start again.

For an NA engine though for $700, I doubt you'd see any worthwhile gain. Be iteresting to see though.

Shane001 wrote:The only way to test these on the dyno is on the same dyno on the same day.

Any results you get otherwise are worthless. Also to test any benefit the plugs should be the same on both runs. Don't upgrade to Iridium plugs at the same time you install the coils. Always test one item at a time if you want to get a true indication of any benefits.

Then finally, again on the same day on the same dyno, you should then remove the new coils and reinstall the originals, and test again. This then confirms the original power run to ensure any gains seen are not due to other factors.

To summarise;
Base power run with stock coils.
Install new coils.
Power run with new coils.
Install original stock coils.
Power run with stock coils. This should yield the same power figures as the base run. If not then your test is flawed, start again.

For an NA engine though for $700, I doubt you'd see any worthwhile gain. Be iteresting to see though.

nice input.. would there be any workshop in brisbane with dyno who wouldn't mind waiting for us to install this? I can change plugs within an hour or so and that's with the 6A13TT, so with the 6A12 Mivec, there aren't any pipes that's in the way or that I need to remove.. so if they're up to it.. i'm all go

I do understand that $700 is a bit too much for little or no power gain, extra hp gained out of this is free hp, as the real target here is the better and consistent spark.. whicn in turn gives you better acceleration and response as well as better fuel consumption..

on a side note.. if one of the ignition coils do fail, one cylinder is affected and you only replace one. As opposed to the oem setup if 1 ignition coil fails, you're pretty much dead in the water..

and last thing you wouldn't need to fork out $280 for a piece of coil if ever you need to replace one..

I've seen my rear plugs after 100000kms and there was not sign of a spark issue.

Did anything come of this?
I want to set up sequential/individual coils..

clint111 wrote:Did anything come of this?
I want to set up sequential/individual coils..

no one with an FTO would like to have a go, possibly the oe coils are more than enough for NA applications. But definitely with the 6A13TT, result were all 'thumbs up' well, except for the price tag.. still is cheaper than what you see getting sold
out there..

How do the alloy plates bolt down to the cam covers, specifically on the rear bank?

Off topic, in your setup pic.. there is a little black sensor thing bolted to the middle, rear of cam cover. What is it?

Pity you were'nt (are) after NSW peeps, 'may' have had more interest...

So you never got a test vehicle?
I am curious what they would of gotten for being said guinea pig if they have to fork out for all oof this stuff - free kit?
Shame i didnt stumble upon this earlier, have a manual GPR in A1 in Brissie, and i can get good deals on a mechanic (brothers father) and dynos