Edited :light weight flywheel

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Shane001
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Re: 2nd dyno after Manual conversion

Post by Shane001 »

Yep, with the Haltech.

Moral of the story. Find a better tuner :lol:
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Akys
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Re: 2nd dyno after Manual conversion

Post by Akys »

Will look into haltech. any reputable tuner? i think a lot of ppl from here(NSW) goes to pulse racing. Western sydney area anyone?

btw,So any words of wisdom what i should be doing right now? get the whole engine checked?
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Re: 2nd dyno after Manual conversion

Post by Shane001 »

But you're not going to get 150kw atw with a 6A12 Mivec FTO without spending some serious coin and/or finding a tuner on happy gas :lol:
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Re: 2nd dyno after Manual conversion

Post by Shane001 »

payaya wrote:How does upgrading the fuel pump make what is essentially a stock engine run better?
Without upgrading the fpr, it will increase the pressure at the fuel rail as the stock fpr can't handle the increased pressure. More pressure for the same duration injector opening equals more fuel in the engine. More fuel usually means more power. And in this case you will feel some gains, but bear in mind the car will now run a bit rich. Great for the track but maybe not so great around town.
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Akys
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Re: 2nd dyno after Manual conversion

Post by Akys »

Shane001 wrote:But you're not going to get 150kw atw with a 6A12 Mivec FTO without spending some serious coin and/or finding a tuner on happy gas :lol:
Haha. I know. I want to try to get it to like 135kw ( i think aza and dwayne is around the range) and just keep it that way till i find and save up for a newer car.
I already did the essential mods. there isnt much i can do now. all i can think of is port and polish, raise compresion a little.
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Akys
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Re: 2nd dyno after Manual conversion

Post by Akys »

Shane001 wrote:
payaya wrote:How does upgrading the fuel pump make what is essentially a stock engine run better?
Without upgrading the fpr, it will increase the pressure at the fuel rail as the stock fpr can't handle the increased pressure. More pressure for the same duration injector opening equals more fuel in the engine. More fuel usually means more power. And in this case you will feel some gains, but bear in mind the car will now run a bit rich. Great for the track but maybe not so great around town.
will it be a significant difference in power and fuel consumption?
and I was reading threads and came across light weight flywheel( Fidanza) worth it? I am more of an acceleration person over top speed as I dont bring my car to the track and I follow speed limit ( most of the time) :lol:
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2nd dyno after Manual conversion

Post by 4G9XRR »

For starters I am sorry for making an out of topic discussion.

The haltech interceptor also has limited control over the ignition. You can play around and make the afr consistent but that gains are a lot greatee if you can apply more advance timing on it at the same time with out it pinging. The only piggy back that I have seen that comes close to a standalone is the ems stinger and emanage ulitimate.

As usual what hurts the most is the cost of these ECU's. That is why I suggested the reflash, with out stepping in anyone toes I totally respect everyones opinion as you do to mine.

Light weight flywheel will make a diffrence for as long as you do not choose a unit far too light for your use. If you want a street flywheel fidenza has some good units 4.8kg would be ideal from memory the fto flywheel has similar weight to cj4a cyborg flywheel 6.659kg.
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Re: 2nd dyno after Manual conversion

Post by bass_twitch »

Shane001 wrote:But you're not going to get 150kw atw with a 6A12 Mivec FTO without spending some serious coin and/or finding a tuner on happy gas :lol:
like this?
....*insert photo of Bennoz's sneaky nos setup here*
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Akys
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Re: 2nd dyno after Manual conversion

Post by Akys »

4G9XRR wrote:For starters I am sorry for making an out of topic discussion.

The haltech interceptor also has limited control over the ignition. You can play around and make the afr consistent but that gains are a lot greatee if you can apply more advance timing on it at the same time with out it pinging. The only piggy back that I have seen that comes close to a standalone is the ems stinger and emanage ulitimate.

As usual what hurts the most is the cost of these ECU's. That is why I suggested the reflash, with out stepping in anyone toes I totally respect everyones opinion as you do to mine.

Light weight flywheel will make a diffrence for as long as you do not choose a unit far too light for your use. If you want a street flywheel fidenza has some good units 4.8kg would be ideal from memory the fto flywheel has similar weight to cj4a cyborg flywheel 6.659kg.
I wanted a Reflash but the only prob is no one knows how to do it. Yup, that's the fidanza ones I checked out.
Thanks for the infos. I checked ems stinger and they cost a lot :(
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Re: 2nd dyno after Manual conversion

Post by Bennoz »

bass_twitch wrote:
Shane001 wrote:But you're not going to get 150kw atw with a 6A12 Mivec FTO without spending some serious coin and/or finding a tuner on happy gas :lol:
like this?
....*insert photo of Bennoz's sneaky nos setup here*
:D
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Re: 2nd dyno after Manual conversion

Post by bass_twitch »

Bennoz wrote:
bass_twitch wrote:
Shane001 wrote:But you're not going to get 150kw atw with a 6A12 Mivec FTO without spending some serious coin and/or finding a tuner on happy gas :lol:
like this?
....*insert photo of Bennoz's sneaky nos setup here*
:D
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:cheeky: :cheers:
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Akys
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Re: 2nd dyno after Manual conversion

Post by Akys »

Bennoz wrote:
bass_twitch wrote:
Shane001 wrote:But you're not going to get 150kw atw with a 6A12 Mivec FTO without spending some serious coin and/or finding a tuner on happy gas :lol:
like this?
....*insert photo of Bennoz's sneaky nos setup here*
:D
Image
paint it and make it look like a fire extinguisher 8)

btw, where is the best place to get a light weight flywheel?
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Akys
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Re: 2nd dyno after Manual conversion

Post by Akys »

hey guys,
whats the ideal compression for gpx?
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Re: 2nd dyno after Manual conversion

Post by Taz »

12:1
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Bennoz wrote: Cum gunt it!
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Re: 2nd dyno after Manual conversion

Post by Bennoz »

Factory its 10:1 or there abouts. Being an interference engine, I'd say you'd be hard pressed getting it to 12:1 without clipping a valve.
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Re: 2nd dyno after Manual conversion

Post by Rob Furniss »

Akys wrote:hey guys,
whats the ideal compression for gpx?
I guess youy are you getting the compression tested then?
There probably is a figure somewhere in the engine manual but I don't know what it is, my understanding is that the main thing is you should check all cylinders and look for a difference (unless that's just to check for one particular problem).
Say 1,2,3,4 are all around 140psi give or take and 5 and 6 are around 110psi then you could have worn rings/valve seats etc on 5 and 6.

I think (and this is purely from my crap memory from when I tested mine on the old car - 1st engine) that around 140psi is ok but like I said there will be a figure in the manual.
EDIT:Just been through the engine and trans manual and couldn't find anything.
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Re: 2nd dyno after Manual conversion

Post by payaya »

Bennoz wrote:It'll cost you 10 grand & the car will be off the road for 6 months. Even if you leave it 'stock'. Fact.

Mine is 'stock' - I've just replaced a few ancillary items like coil packs & fuel pumps, but the motor is essentially stock, standard turbos & all, just tuned right.

I dont recommend anyone do what I did without having a sound mechanical knowledge / DIY know how. Otherwise, like AJ, you forever be back at the shop spending a grand here, 2 grand there, & a few grand over there.

There is always something wrong with my car, and as soon as I fix that problem, just like the setting of the sun, another one will appear!

If you want turbo performance, but a factory turbo car. Buy a Legnum!
Bennoz know what ya mean about fixing one thing then another appears!!!
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Re: 2nd dyno after Manual conversion

Post by bass_twitch »

Bennoz wrote:If you want turbo performance, but a factory turbo car. Buy a Legnum!
Even that's not an automatic avoidance of issues. - My mate's legnum spends basically as much time off the road as your red rocket does!
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Akys
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Re: Edited : now looking for like weight flywheel

Post by Akys »

Didnt get compression test done today but got a upper cylinder cleaned. (not upper manifold, sorry guys)

Now i am looking at light weight flywheel, can anyone or current user comment on that? looked at fidanza's and rpw. or just strip the weight off the stock one.

I am taking ben's advise on not converting to 6a13tt as i m still learning about the FTO. SO i am just going to try my best to get the best out of my current engine. :) and will try to learn more bout mitsu engine and see if 6g75 conversion is possible. (from 380, well at least thats the plan)
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Re: 2nd dyno after Manual conversion

Post by payaya »

Rob Furniss wrote:That 107.5KW - was that at the wheels or fly wheel as if it's ATW it's not that low?
Could just be worn rings dropping your compression a little,have you had it checked?
May be worthwhile getting a vac gauge on too as that can tell quite a lot about how the engine is performing, go back to basics (well it can tell an expert quite a lot, i'm no expert).
The record on this forum is 125KW at the wheels I think so either Mitsu over quoted the power of the FTO or the engines loose their get up and go real quick.
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