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Help me diagnose these Coils please :|

Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2013 12:53 am
by shadowarrior
I picked up a new multimeter today and wanted to test the coils off my Mrs' Pajero to check for that misfire issue.
(Although there is no stutter while driving, I can sometimes see the rpm needle take a quick dip while idling.) Just wanted to make sure if the coils are ok anyways.

So according to my engine's manual, and Bennoz's link (http://www.ehow.com/how_4912368_check-c ... meter.html) this is what I am doing:

Engine Manual:
Image

The Coil in question:
Image

To get the primary resistance of the coil am touching the middle pin and the 3rd pin in the plug A as named in the diagram. (Reads .578 k ohms)
To get the secondary resistance of the coil am touching the Spark Lead connector C and the Spark Plug connector B metals. (Reads 10.3 k ohms)
(Both measurements are taken on an autorange meter)

Am I doing it the right way?
So according to the manual my primary resistance should be between .7-.86 ohms and secondary resistance should be between 11.3-15.3 k ohms. My readings are lesser than that, therefore my coil is bad?

This is my first time with a multimeter and learning things..so sorry for the noob question :)

Re: Help me diagnose these Coils please :|

Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2013 9:05 am
by PHIL069
Well to start the pic you have out of the manual is not the same as the coil you have.
The manual is showing a complete coil pack which would be bolted beside the engine and have 4 leads running to the 4 spark plugs.
The coil you have is like the FTO ones that sit above one sparkplug and run a lead to a second spark plug.

You must have the wrong manual.

Re: Help me diagnose these Coils please :|

Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2013 10:44 am
by shadowarrior
Hmmm... yeah sensed something was odd in that picture. Had searched for 4G93 1.8L 4cyl SOHC and that's the result I came up with..apart from the other ones with 6 cyl.

Is my method of testing the resistance correct though?

Re: Help me diagnose these Coils please :|

Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2013 11:04 am
by PHIL069
Yes your method is correct, but you need to find out the actual pins/terminals to test and the correct specs.

Re: Help me diagnose these Coils please :|

Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2013 11:05 am
by shadowarrior
Thanks mate. All the manuals am finding now have coil-on system. :\
Urgh!! Off to the abyss of Google search :)

Re: Help me diagnose these Coils please :|

Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2013 11:11 am
by shadowarrior
Btw, this is a SOHC and not a DOHC right?
Image (couldn't see any groove in the middle of the cam head like DOHC engines usually have)

Re: Help me diagnose these Coils please :|

Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2013 11:18 am
by PHIL069
Yes it is a SOHC as there is only one cam pulley as you can see from the timing belt cover.

Re: Help me diagnose these Coils please :|

Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2013 11:35 am
by shadowarrior
Thanks :)

Re: Help me diagnose these Coils please :|

Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2013 11:52 am
by shadowarrior
Hey Phil,
Is this what am after?
Image
Does match the engine specs and coil/lead wire type.

Re: Help me diagnose these Coils please :|

Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2013 12:09 pm
by PHIL069
That looks like it.
Is it for your engine?

The "secondary resistance " you have already done is in specs :cheers:

The primary coil check, you will need to connect a "AA" battery to "2(-)+3(+)" and read the continuity across "1+2" should be 000 or not far above and your multimeter should "alarm".
Disconnect the "AA" battery and you should not have any continuity.

Re: Help me diagnose these Coils please :|

Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2013 12:41 pm
by shadowarrior
Manual said 4G93 SOHC, only thing it said was 2002 M/Y... which I think is for a 2002 model :P But that's the only one out of 8 Pajero IO manuals I downloaded which matched the coil and spark lead combo :P
Whew so secondary resistance was all good :)

I put the coil back on before I saw your post but I had done this test yesterday:

Checked continuity/resistance between 1 and 2....got OL and no beeps, checked continuity between 2 and 3 got .578 k ohms, checked continuity between 1 and 3 got OL and no beeps. (This was on an autorange, so definitely didn't matter if I had a lower range selected).

This is what I understand from the test, correct me if am wrong :) -->

2 and 3 has a working circuit with some resistance hence my continuity test worked giving me the result of .578 k ohms; and connecting the 1.5v battery on 2 and 3 passes power through them. 1 and 2 do not form a complete circuit unless you manually connect those two points and have a battery (some form of connection) on 2 and 3. This completes the circuit between 1 and 2 and 3. Disconnecting the circuit between 2 and 3 (with the battery in this case) will also break the circuit between 1 and 2 or 1 and 3.

Re: Help me diagnose these Coils please :|

Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2013 1:00 pm
by PHIL069
It's like a relay or switch
Power (battery) to 2+3 switch is closed (turned on) = continuity (flow) 1+2
No power to 2+3 switch is open (turned off) so NO continuity (no flow) 1+2

Re: Help me diagnose these Coils please :|

Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2013 1:03 pm
by shadowarrior
Ah..makes sense :)
Thanks mate. I will pull it out and check it again.

Re: Help me diagnose these Coils please :|

Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2013 1:07 pm
by PHIL069
The ECU will send 1.5v to 2+3 to activate coil (send specified power to coil and onto spark plug through 1+2), then ECU will send no power to 2+3 to stop spark.
This will happen constantly (on,off,on,off....) as the ECU wants each plug to spark

Re: Help me diagnose these Coils please :|

Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2013 1:29 pm
by shadowarrior
So there wouldn't be any way where I can change all the 4 as coil on spark instead of the current coil and lead system? I would need to alter how the ECU handles and fires the spark? I have heard all coil on spark plug systems have better spark/ignition than the ones with lead wires branching off from a coil?

Re: Help me diagnose these Coils please :|

Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2013 4:19 pm
by PHIL069
Unsure, may need to ask an auto electrician.

I would assume you would have to change the ECU and wiring too, but don't quote me on that ;)