Need advice! Spun bearing..

[Taz]

I am looking at getting an evo 7 bottom end with a spun bearing for only $350 and was wondering if it is worth it to get it or keep looking. (it can also come with the complete top end for an extra 500)
I am well aware that it will need to be rebuilt, but from what i heard it can be a major pain in the ass and very expensive to fix or it could be a painless operation (considering)
I am waiting on more information but from the ad he says the pistons and rods are good - does this mean that other things should be fine as well? or are the pistons and rods usually good after a spun bearing?
Im assuming the worst case is the journals are galled and ill have to fork out for a new crank - then is there any guarantee after replacing/fixing all of that it wont happen again?
If i decide to get a cheap block now, even if it has a chance to be binned i can still fab up all of the brackets and mounts now and eventually get a new engine when its ready?
Im going to be rebuilding whatever engine i get regardless - but how much more of a task is fixing a spun bearing - and considering the conditions the engine will be under is it worth it?

Just got a call back from the guy - he took it to his mechanic and they only pulled the oil pan and identified the spun bearing (can you then tell if rods/pistons will be good or not from this or is this just an guess?)
If i could get someone in sydney to go down and have a quick look (or alternatively get some good advice here) that would be marvellous, dont really want to be getting into something that will only be potentially headaches its whole life.
Cheers

[fraz91]

If it were me, I'd get it and put a stroker kit through the motor. The crank is more than likely damaged, but to what extent you won't know until you pull it apart. You may be able to get away with just getting the crank linished, however if you're going to such extent to build a racer, you might as well make it go that little bit better.

[Taz]

Yea ive thought about the stroker kit but they are still a good 4-5k for a decent 2.3 and im not sure whether or not it will bump me up a class because of the increased displacement - some have a 2L and under category, but if i cant find any others then i most likely will.
If i do decide to stroke it, and replace all the bearings what are the chances of this happening again though?
As he is only pulled the pan is it worth getting someone to go around and check it out? or can you not really tell anything else just by looking at it? the head is still on the block (i guess that makes it a bit easier for shipping)

I will also have to now find out if the 7 is the same as the 4/5/6 - are the driveshafts the same, mounting points etc etc and are they interchangeable if not? Least now if this block is cheap enough i will have an engine to start working on! getting excited if no one here bums me out with bad news

[ZFL45H1]

Yea ive thought about the stroker kit but they are still a good 4-5k for a decent 2.3 and im not sure whether or not it will bump me up a class because of the increased displacement - some have a 2L and under category, but if i cant find any others then i most likely will.
If i do decide to stroke it, and replace all the bearings what are the chances of this happening again though?
As he is only pulled the pan is it worth getting someone to go around and check it out? or can you not really tell anything else just by looking at it? the head is still on the block (i guess that makes it a bit easier for shipping)

I will also have to now find out if the 7 is the same as the 4/5/6 - are the driveshafts the same, mounting points etc etc and are they interchangeable if not? Least now if this block is cheap enough i will have an engine to start working on! getting excited if no one here bums me out with bad news

How will they know if it's got a stroker kit or not and also I believe that evo 7 and after have a longer wheel base so wether or not some parts are interchangeable best bet would be to ask an evo forum wouldn't matter which one

[Taz]

Apart from the rigorous inspections that CAMS and certain events make you go through before letting you on the track, i would not want to risk a champoinship/race/whatever because they found out afterwards im running illegal mods - and its just not fair/in my nature to do so. It would also most likely get my CAMS licence suspended or cancelled.
Im sure it would be much cheaper and easier to get some custom shafts fabbed up over finding another engine so cheap and making it work. Ive just done some looking and have found a 2.3L AMS kit will only set me back 2300 - which is about half of what i expected to pay - so really i can look at this as being 850 + 2300 + whatever it costs to mill out and make room for the bigger crank. which with some of the engines ive been looking at is actually cheaper than others (who are earlier models and in worse condition)
With the stroker kit i can eliminate most problems that can occur from a spun bearing with the rest being relatively cheap to fix fix if they are even there. Everything on the engine (especially oil wise) will be aftermarket and new anyway, so unless im unaware of something it shouldnt happen again if i deal with it properly now.

[Taz]

Found out it has aftermarket springs and retainers, and i bartered him down to 800 for the lot.
Pending Bennoz seal of approval im in!

EDIT: only 70k on it and it happened on the dyno, apparently blew out the dipstick and started to misfire at idle. Does this mean anything?

[ZFL45H1]

Fair enough to the first section of first reply I would want that was just curious as well

[PHIL069]

only 70k on it and it happened on the dyno, apparently blew out the dipstick and started to misfire at idle. Does this mean anything?

To blow out the dipstick it would have excessive blow-by causing the turbo boost to by-pass the pistons and enter the sump.
This could be caused by excessive boost, piston ring gaps too large, piston rings to bore gap too high.
or
Blown/burnt piston, blown piston ring, scored bore, piston dropped etc

[Taz]

Would this matter if im replacing pistons/rings - basically the whole bottom end?
As long as the block itself is in good condition and the walls can be re-scored properly without hassling the piston/ring gap that's ok. Stroker kit replaces all that anyway.

[PHIL069]

Sorry but you can't guess on the condition of the block or bore walls.
Only way is to visualy inspect the block internals.
Even then you still run the chance of a crack in the block which cannot be fixed, but unlikely.

Roll the dice, flip a coin, cut the deck

If it was me I would source an engine I can start and hear running, and rebuild that one.

[Taz]

Fair enough phil
and yea for 850 delivered its not an expensive gamble, i can cut losses if worst case block is cracked - even then i can get use out of it as the top end is still good with some aftermarket goodies -and i can still use the block now to fab up the brackets/mounts - then that relieves pressure on trying to find a 4g now and just wait till something else pops up while im working on other things. At worst ill just need to source another bare block anyway.

[PHIL069]

...and the block would make a good coffee table base

Have you seen pics of the engine, pics of the crank with the sump off?
Just to see that it hasn't busted a conrod and sent it through the head, block or sump.

[Taz]

Havent seen pics with the oil pan off as it has been put back on only the engine itself from the outside, which doesnt really tell me anything.
He has looked at the head with the rocker off and it seems nothing has come through the top, and nothing went through the bottom. if anything the problem (if any) lies in the block.
Ill just have to roll the dice and cut the cards i guess - fingers crossed its not major.
Unless someone in sydney is willing to go down and take a look at it for me for a few cases or something?

[Taz]

He changed the cams back to stock from his 272 set - and the block head was immaculate.
He also said he was told the block was good (although if they didnt disassemble it you can't tell - right?)
This is all going off what he says and what he sais he's been told - but i cant pick him for a shady guy just by talking to him but you never know - roll the dice.
Can you mistake a spun bearing for blow-by? maybe it upset a bearing as it came through the sump and blew the stick out? would this be any better than a plain spun bearing from an oil related issue?

[Bennoz]

Rip off, f**k him.

Spun bearing can mean damage to everything or nothing.

[mattman]

spun bearing can mean all sorts of dramas more often then not the crank is a throw away and a replacement is needed. i know this as building motors was my job for a long time but if you dont know what you looking for or dont have any one with the knowledge to have a look at it i would give it a miss

[Taz]

mattman, im not fussed about the crank, as ill be stroking it anyway, the only thing im really worried about is the block itself.
Seeing how i cant get anybody down there to look at it is it really not worth it Bennoz?

[payaya]

only 70k on it and it happened on the dyno, apparently blew out the dipstick and started to misfire at idle. Does this mean anything?

To blow out the dipstick it would have excessive blow-by causing the turbo boost to by-pass the pistons and enter the sump.
This could be caused by excessive boost, piston ring gaps too large, piston rings to bore gap too high.
or
Blown/burnt piston, blown piston ring, scored bore, piston dropped etc

Or as simple as a PCV.