PHIL069's 1999 Galant VR-4 (SUE069's)

[spetz]

Great work Phil and great pics.
I assume you will still fit the new wavespring in though right?

Do you think these were done as a preventative step or the transmission has been rebuilt at some stage after a failure (of the wavespring)?

[PHIL069]

Yes, I will still fit the new wave spring, o-rings, seals and internal filter (which I have to pull the bell housing off to get to).

I have found out some 98-99 transmissions had the new wave spring fit from factory, then Mitsubishi went back to the old wave spring.
But I think this info is just an urban myth.

So the transmission could have been rebuilt due to failure or it could have been rebuilt just for a Japanese owners piece of mind.
I guess we will never know the answer to this one.

[spetz]

Are you going to install an oil cooler as well?

[PHIL069]

Yes I am.

I have purchased a manual alluminium radiator, so no auto cooler in there.
I have also purchased an oil cooler and an inline thermostat.
So the thermostat will not open until the transmission has reached operating temp, then allowing the fluid to run through the cooler.
The system will keep the transmission at an optimum temp.

[spetz]

What thermostat did you buy?
And what oil cooler?

I just bought a B&M 14,400BTU cooler for my Verada and a Long bypass valve but haven't installed it yet.
Though I was planning on running it inline with the radiator cooler so it can warm up the ATF when needed, and the external cooler will cool the ATF when needed.
Additionally I plan to run an inline filter (Magnefine).

I will also be swapping the wavespring but not going to do it myself.

[PHIL069]

I purchased...

Cooler...
PWR Oil Cooler Kit 280x200x19 3/8
Part No: PWO5388

Thermostat...
Derale Fluid Control Thermostat 3/8" NPT Inlet / Outlet Ports DP25011
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DERALE-DERAL ... OU:AU:3160

EDIT: I haven't worked out mounting brackets, hoses and fittings yet.
I am thinking of looking into high pressure hydraulic hoses and fittings.

[PHIL069]

Transmission work continues...

Today...
- Removed valve body cover and valve body
- Replaced 2nd brake retainer
- Cleaned, lubed and fit main internals and new wave spring.
- Cleaned, lubed and refit valve body

The internals were a bit tricky to install correctly, especially the reverse/overide clutch and the planetry reverse sun gear. With a bit of patience, some wiggling and holding my tounge to the left the job was a success.

I decided not to strenghten the sun gear for 2 reasons;
1. If a tiny bit of welding splatter gets on the planetry gears it will destroy the gears and shaft
2. I will not be racing the car or greatly increasing it's power and the sun gear is in perfect condition

I need to buy myself a small tension wrench to tension down the valve body, so I have covered over the transmission to be continued next weekend.

Pics (your favourite part)...

[Daniel2019]

Looks complicated.

Good stuff as always!

[destinationtoby]

Farrrrk imagine how much stuff I would break if I was doing that

[PHIL069]

You would have broken yourself getting it out of the car

I forgot to mention...
Just as I was putting the last internal part into the main chamber a big drop of sweat ran down my nose and dropped into the transmission, so now this transmission has a piece of my DNA inside it.

[Vectose]

Great work as always Phil.

[Bennoz]

Brave man Phil, even I stay well clear of slush boxes... *Boing!*

*Listens for ball bearings & springs to hit the ground in the workshop*

[ObsidianRadio]

Holy sh*t! Hahahaha


I can't comprehend how tedious this must be!

[PHIL069]

Todays work...

- Tension down valve body
- Replace internal o-rings
- Seal and tension valve body cover and back cover
- Remove torque converter cover/bell housing
- Replace internal filter, torque converter seal and internal o-rings
- Seal and tension torque converter cover
- Replace left side drive shaft seal

Note:
- The torque converter seal was removed with a drill and some screws - all went good
- The drive shaft seal was removed with a lever bar - I slipped while levering it out and made a couple of small scrape marks in the housing/sealing face - I installed the new seal with some retaining compound hoping that it will stop any possable ATF leaks - I guess if it leaks I will have to replace the seal again with a different sealing compound - I am pretty confident that it will be good - I am not perfect!

Pics...

















This pic shows the internal speed sensor gear, maybe that is broken in your gearbox Detonationtoby

[spetz]

Looking good Phil, keep up the great work

[PHIL069]

Jobs completed today...
- Stripped down and cleaned transfer case
- Replaced all transfer case seals and o-rings
- Put transfer case back together

Pics...

[PHIL069]

Moar jobs completed today...
- Replace rear engine seal
- Remove front sway bar
- Remove steering rack

Notes:
In the pics you will notice that the steering rack has been leaking from the top seal.
This in turn has caused a previous owner to run out of PS fluid and cook the pump.
I have a new pump and a seal kit for the rack.
I am unsure if I will rebuild the rack myself or give it to a steering workshop to do for me, I need to research the job and research any special tools required.

Pics...

Rear engine seal...

























Steering rack...













Sway bar...



I am building up a large collection of parts here...

[Daniel2019]

Your e-peen is nearly as big as Ben's now

[PHIL069]

I have moar pics and there is enough on this page...

[PHIL069]

Hence a double post to get to the next page