FTO AUSTRALIA

Time for engine work to start...

Todays jobs...

- Remove steering pump, AC compressor and alternator
- Remove RH engine mount and all front of engine brackets
- Remove timing cover, timing belt, timing pulleys and waterpump
- Install new water pump
- Remove and install new crank shaft seal
- Remove leads, coils and rocker covers

Notes...
- The water pump was seeping coolant from the upper mating surface
- The center rear spark plug seal was leaking and filled the chamber with oil
- The upper engine looks pretty clean
- Unsure if I want to change cam seals, the only way I can think of to get the sprockets off of the cams is to lift the cams out of the engine and use my rattle gun to remove the bolts.

Pics...

*shudders* looks very familiar,

Interesting to see your water pump and housing were in about the same condition as mine...

Good job!

Also you could leave the power steering pump unbolted but connected and in place with the bracket out and the alternator loosened but still connected at the top bolt.

And I had the same exact problem on the exact same injector plug

SchumieFan wrote:Also you could leave the power steering pump unbolted but connected and in place with the bracket out and the alternator loosened but still connected at the top bolt.

And I had the same exact problem on the exact same injector plug

He had a brand new power steering pump to put in man

O rite... fair enough tthen

SchumieFan wrote:*shudders* looks very familiar,

Interesting to see your water pump and housing were in about the same condition as mine...

Good job!

lol, thanks, and how many k's has yours done?

Yeh...new steering pump and I already had the top bolt out of the alternator so I thought I might as well take it out and give it a clean.

Mines just done 107 thou... When we pulled it all apart we found the belt had already been changed but the water pump hadn't so it was worth it anyway my laptops died so I can't post up pictures... I also removed the alternator but when I second guessed myself putting the cam belt on I had to pull it all apart again and realized I only needed to remove the bottom bolt on the alternator... might save someone 5 minutes in future.

Is there any flush that would get rid of that rust in the water pump housing?

spetz wrote:Is there any flush that would get rid of that rust in the water pump housing?

I don't think so.

There is rust in the cooling system because previous owners have'nt changed the coolant often enough.

On with the show...

Todays jobs...
- Clean oil out of spark plug chamber
- Change all spark plugs
- Install cleaned rocker covers incl; new gaskets, spark plug seals, bolt hole seals and PCV valve + grommet
- Install cleaned coils, I will order some Ice leads and fit them
- Install new timing belt incl; new idler pulley, tension pulley and hydraulic tensioner
- Install cleaned timing covers and front of engine brackets
- Install new steering pump and cleaned reservoir
- Install new acc belts and pulleys
- Install cleaned AC compressor and alternator
- Install new front engine mount

Note...
- I love putting it all back together and grabing new parts out of a box

Pics...











This pic added for reference

Another day spent on the Galant...

Todays work...
- Install exhaust y-pipe incl new gaskets
- Install tail shaft
- Install cross member incl new anti-roll mount and cushion stoppers
- Install front drive shafts
- Clean all suspension components
- Install strut bar
- Install front suspension/hub incl new lower control arms + stoppers and upper control arms.

Note...
The lower ball joints were turning whilst trying to tension them up, so I jacked up the suspension from under the ball joint until it had enough weight on it to hold.

Pics...

Looks fantastic mate, you're definitely talented.

fraz91 wrote:Looks fantastic mate, you're definitely talented.

Thanks buddy

Great stuff as usual Phil, I wish you were my neighbor

I also did a preventative wave spring replacement (though I paid someone to do it) in my KJ2 Verada.
This is what came out:





And this particular piece was found in the actual sump, so from my logic catastrophic transmission failure was impending. It seems that a few people have found pieces of their wave spring in the sump and manage to keep driving



The transmission was not removed and the whole procedure was done in a day.

Lucky you got it done.

How much did it cost you?

The labor + wave spring + inline filter was $820
$133 for genuine AT fluid for the flush
Also $180 for a cooler + bypass thermostat
And $150 to fit the cooler

Not cheap, but saved me being stuck somewhere with $3k repair and I have peace of mind now

Too many pics on this page

So onto the next page