FTO AUSTRALIA

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Todays work...

Tried to fit the "Winner Racing" ally radiator and the mounting holes on the radiator don't match up with the mounting holes on the fans.
I don't want to spend more money on slim fans.
So I had a good inspection of the radiator that came out of the car and it looks to be in great condition, the inside looks like new and there is no sign of leakage.

I have sent an email to the manufacturer of the radiator with pics.
If they won't help I will be selling the ally radiator for half the price I paid.
I will also be selling the new transmission cooler and transmission thermostat unused for half the price I paid.

- Installed factory radiator incl new hoses.
- Installed most of the intake/turbo piping, changed all the ring style clamps to strap style ones.
- Installed front brakes.
- Changed all the front globes with new ones that I already happened to have in my collection.

Pics...

Todays work...
- Plasti-X polish the headlights and fog lights
- Install headlights (incl new rubber trim below guards), front bumper, front grill and fog lights.
- Purchased a new battery and hold down strap.
- Install battery tray and new battery.
- Install intake air box and air scoop.
- Change oil and filter.
- Start to change flared guard trims.

Note...
- Found left hand fog light to be rusted inside, full of crap and siliconed together; don't know why I didn't notice before.
- Found right hand fog light to be missing the mount for the bolt.
- Looking for great condition FL foglights

Pics...

Loving the rebuild... If only I had the time I'd be doing it all to tweety. . Maybe in a few years... keep up the posts

Look what came today...





It is Sue's birthday today.
So I couldn't help myself but to do some work tonight and show Sue her completted engine bay.
I haven't filled all the fluids or started it yet as I will wait to do that on the weekend (if I can wait that long).

Pics...













Sue is very happy with it.

Nicr work. Say happy birthday to Sue for me.

Nice work!
That looks soooo tidy, almost brand new!
Happy Birthday to Sue!

This car is going to be better than new when you are finished with it .

That is mint. I've only seen a couple of cars cleaner than that, it even puts brand new models to shame.

I wish I had that sort of attention to detail, let alone the patience

Thanks guys

I filled all the fluids today and started up the car.
Engine, cooling system, power steering, transmission are all working perfectly. HOORAY

While getting the transmission filled with fluid to the right level, I thought I would put it into "D" and "R" back and forth as I would normally do with any transmission.
With the car still on stands and no wheels on, I thought I would release the brake and check that all 4 axles are moving, they were.

Now comes the problem...
While I had it in "D" I accelerated a bit...the AYC bars lit....1-2-3....then all bars turned off and the AYC + ABS lights lit up.
I got the AYC light off with a restart but I can't get the ABS light to turn off.
Checked errors ABS 21, 22...AYC 51, 56.

I just think that I got the ABS codes from the front rotors having surface rust so they couldn't rotate through the pads correctly.
The ABS would have sensed 30km/h from the transmission, but no speed from the wheel sensors occasionally.
The ABS would have thought I was locking up in a skid but I didn't have my foot on the brake, so the ABS couldn't control the skid.
The AYC codes were from G-Sensors because it sensed it didn't have traction but couldn't sense any G-Force loads.

I just confused the car to give me codes.

I have tried disconnecting the battery for 30 min.
I have checked all ABS fuses

I believe ABS codes would remain in the system after a battery reset as ABS is a safety system.
Mitsubishi would want you to then take it to a service center to have the codes removed.
I will leave the battery disconnected overnight, but I don't think it will help.

I just want to remove the codes myself, I don't have a EVOScan.

Has anybody with an ABS system in their FTO had any luck in reseting the ABS codes?

I can contribute a little bit here...

Yes I am pretty sure it will need to be reset with a scan tool. Alternatively you can replace the ECU if for some reason you have a spare.

Sometimes though, even the scan tool will not clear a code (even if there is no hard fault) we have that problem at work sometimes with certain things related to ABS and you must do a manual reset (which is disconnect the the battery to reset it then pump the brake 30 times to clear any remaining power left in the system via brake lights activating).

Daniel2019 wrote:I can contribute a little bit here...

Yes I am pretty sure it will need to be reset with a scan tool. Alternatively you can replace the ECU if for some reason you have a spare.

Sometimes though, even the scan tool will not clear a code (even if there is no hard fault) we have that problem at work sometimes with certain things related to ABS and you must do a manual reset (which is disconnect the the battery to reset it then pump the brake 30 times to clear any remaining power left in the system via brake lights activating).

So leaving the battery disconnected overnight might work.
or
Should I still pump the brake pedal in the morning?

May as well, it can't hurt to do. We do it to make sure the PCM isn't holding any small amounts of power when disconnected from the battery to store codes and stuff, I don't know how or if it works on Mitsus/other cars (I have only ever done it once on a 323) but like I said can't hurt I suppose, you may as well.

Only one way to find out

It would probably work if you just pumped the pedal while the battery is disconnected. Shouldn't have to leave it overnight. We did it straight away at work and it worked.

When you take the car for a test drive the abs may sort its self out.

Not to scare you too much but matt had abs codes on his car and they wouldnt clear by resetting the battery, had to use scan tool which he didnt have so ended up buying a new ABS ecu for it

i think matt has the scan tool but couldn't figure it out

Time for the...


Battery disconnected overnight and pressing brake pedal heaps didn't work.
Put the wheels back on this morning, took it off the stands and went for a 30min drive.
The ABS light went off after 5 Meters of driving forward (at the end of the driveway), you were right Dwayne.
The VR4 now goes like a new car, quite, heaps of power, transmission works awesome (Auto and Tip), AYC works, handles great.

I am a very very happy boy

It's now back on the stands with the wheels off waiting for me to start pulling the rear apart.

FYI; A big thanks to FTOwnage for offering to send me his EVOScan cable.

That's awesome news!

Good stuff!

Good to hear mate!

Woooo

Good stuff.