Fixing the Cv boots

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shadowarrior
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Fixing the Cv boots

Post by shadowarrior »

Finally got some free time this weekend but the damn sun is out in full glory. Don't want free cancer while I work on the car.

On topic.... I only have one inner cv boot snapped. Should I take a short cut and just change that one boot without taking the axle out? Or should I do both inner and outer. I don't have any noise coming from the rest of the cvs and can't see any other leak either.
Kinda debating the, 'why fix when it's not broken' idea here. :/
Last edited by shadowarrior on Sat Mar 08, 2014 2:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Technikhaus
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Re: Doing the Cv boots

Post by Technikhaus »

If you have the time/money/parts do all of them.
You don't want to fix one, only to have another start making noise a few weeks later, and having to get under there again to fix it.

Other wise, just do one :p
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shadowarrior
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Re: Doing the Cv boots

Post by shadowarrior »

Have all parts. :)
Time... it's only the weekends...and it's hard to find a day when it's either not pouring or insanely hot with extreme UV levels :|
Money... already have all parts..including outer cvs...minus the abs ring which I need to tap them in.

Things I need to do:
- Change that 1 inner cv boot. (or all of them..which is going to take up time)
- Outer tie rod ends.
- Front droplinks
- Rear control arm
- Rear droplinks
- Rear swaybar bushes
- Front speaker, with new wiring from head unit to the speakers..place tweeter in stock tweeter spot..rewire that.

Then car goes to the mechanic for Front sway bar bush, front control arm bushes and ball joint, rear trailing arm bush.

A wheel alignment after that.

I have 3 weekends left till bonfire excluding this one. :|
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destinationtoby
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Re: Doing the Cv boots

Post by destinationtoby »

shadowarrior wrote: Then car goes to the mechanic for Front sway bar bush, front control arm bushes and ball joint, rear trailing arm bush.. :|
What a waste of $$ so easy to do all of them
Because nothing is faster than a p plater in a commodore.....
except maybe a p plater on a unicorn
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Re: Fixing the Cv boots

Post by Sahin »

destinationtoby wrote:
shadowarrior wrote: Then car goes to the mechanic for Front sway bar bush, front control arm bushes and ball joint, rear trailing arm bush.. :|
What a waste of $$ so easy to do all of them
didnt you bash the actual control arm pretty decently changing yours? Lol
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destinationtoby
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Re: Fixing the Cv boots

Post by destinationtoby »

It's only $10 to take the arm in and get the ball joint pressed out and new one pressed in. Can be done in under 2minutes.
Compared to taking the whole car in and getting all that done, you'd save heaps doing it all urself
Because nothing is faster than a p plater in a commodore.....
except maybe a p plater on a unicorn
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shadowarrior
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Re: Fixing the Cv boots

Post by shadowarrior »

I am not confident working with brakes... :\
My initial plan was to take arms out and get the ball joints pressed ....then someone ditched me....
And changing front sway bar bushes....ffs!
It still has to go to a mechanic for the rear trailing arm bush.


Note: Fuckin outer tie rod end was stuck as hell... took 45mins of hammering to get that sh*t out....but could take the wheel hub nut out quite fast. :)
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Sahin
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Re: Fixing the Cv boots

Post by Sahin »

Pull it all out on the weekend and get the bushes pressed in and I'll put it all back together for a little bit extra than the petrol money it'll cost meif that's your only hassle
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shadowarrior
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Re: Fixing the Cv boots

Post by shadowarrior »

Hmm i'll have to figure out how to take the arms out.
Will have a look tomorrow.

What all do I need to take off?
- Disc
- Caliper
- Suspension
- ????
- ????
- ????
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Sahin
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Re: Fixing the Cv boots

Post by Sahin »

Leave the disc and caliper on the hub knuckle and just bash the ball joint out of the bottom and then it's just 3 bolts more holding the front control arm in

The rear is a bit more tricky but just take the caliper off and zip tie it up to the spring and disconnect the hand brake line, you already know how to pull the arms out and then it's just the bolt that goes through the trailing arm bush and the one that connects it to the rear lower control arm
Don't forget to take the disc off
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shadowarrior
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Re: Fixing the Cv boots

Post by shadowarrior »

Am happy to leave trailing arm done later. Just want to front ones for now.

Rear trailing arm is a bit tricky to get out.

So for the front:

- take the sway bar link out.
- take suspension out?
- 3 bolts..what are they connecting to...so it's easier for me to identify.
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Sahin
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Re: Fixing the Cv boots

Post by Sahin »

Swaybar link and suspension? They don't connect to the control arm on a GPX
You'll see the 3 bolts
One goes through one bush and the other 2 hold in the big bush towards the back of the car
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shadowarrior
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Re: Fixing the Cv boots

Post by shadowarrior »

Kk, I'll have a look tomorrow.
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Re: Fixing the Cv boots

Post by Bennoz »

- LOL
- Stop making lists
- Grow some gonads, get under the car, it's 3 bolts as mentioned

HTH :thumleft:
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shadowarrior
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Re: Fixing the Cv boots

Post by shadowarrior »

Can we use WD40 or normal Degreaser to clean the cv joint grease? Instead of a brake cleaner? I ran out of brake cleaners... :|
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Re: Fixing the Cv boots

Post by Daniel2019 »

Go buy some :lol:
I fix cars.
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shadowarrior
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Re: Fixing the Cv boots

Post by shadowarrior »

How do I take the two joints out from the two ends...the outer one which is inside the cup...and the inner which has the spider assembly and supposedly has a snap ring in front of it.
And wtf is a Dynamic damper band...which is supposedly different to a boot band.
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shadowarrior
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Re: Fixing the Cv boots

Post by shadowarrior »

Should I just hammer the axle out of the outer CV cup? Can't see any clips.
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Re: Fixing the Cv boots

Post by Sahin »

The boot holds it on holy f**k
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shadowarrior
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Re: Fixing the Cv boots

Post by shadowarrior »

Ffs boot doesn't hold sh*t you noob. The boot was off ages back. To take the axle out you have to hammer the cv joint head, it compresses a ring inside it and clears the grooves for the axle to come out.

Anyways should I tap the abs ring more? It's flush with the inside wall but not with the outside.
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