FTO AUSTRALIA

I don't want to steal a car or anything just find out what model of immobiliser I have and trace the wiring to the central locking (if it has this feature) as the central locking isn't working from the button (and never has since i've had the car), immobiliser bit is doing it's job though.
The key unlocks both doors so I presume the central locking system is working just not wired up to the immobiliser.

So is there a typical place where these get hidden or a way for me to trace it?

Cheers

Actually, the central locking actuators are probably fecked even if the key does open the door. Very common to let go, I've done numerous replacements including my own car.

Generally use the Jaycar units to replace: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=LR8813

DIY: http://www.completefto.com.au/assets/te ... ocking.pdf

Cheers Ben, I can't believe the price of those - thought they would be a lot more expensive.
So just because the key in the drivers door locks and unlocks both doors (of course it would do the drivers) doesn't mean the actuators are working ok? Is there a mechanical linkage to the passengers side?

You might find the immobiliser is undertaking that part of the operation.

I'm quite confused.
Is it looking likely then that the driver side actuator is knackered and if so then it won't send a signal to the passengers side to unlock also i.e the drivers actuator has to be working for central locking to work? (I hope this is all it is and this now seems like such a dumb question)

Yeah so the drivers door actuator contains the microswitch that fires the passenger door. When using the key, you manually trigger that switch.

Sorry, probably should have elaborated. Here's a link to the drivers side unit: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=LR8815

It's a 5 wire unit, as opposed to the passenger door, which is a 2 wire unit (known as a slave)

In some cases I've seen just the actuator fail in the drivers door, but not the micro-switch, so you can actually splice in a 2 wire slave unit into the drivers door & utilize the factory micro-switch. In other cases, I've sen the whole thing go.

Best bet before you go spending any money, grab a muilti metre & check the output signal wire on the master side first.

Having said all that, there is a possibility it could also be your immobiliser as you say. Only way to check that, is to pull it out, find the door lock signal wire & check the output on that as well.

Ok cheers Ben

Yeah I used the slave and piggybacked my factory unit on the drivers side... it's a pain in the arse to squeeze it between the Window and the door trim...

Anyone know which wires I need and what they are all for?
I will get the door card off tomorrow and see whats there already but its not obvious to me.

FAIL

Followed the guide on completefto for fitting central locking motor.
So i've hooked up the new motor for the central locking (blue/red on the stock connector to the green wire on the new motor, blue/black to the blue wire on the new motor) and when I use the buttons on the remote nothing happens, checked the voltage and there is nothing.
Use the flip/flop lock inside the car and it locks/unlocks the car and fires the new motor and I see voltage on the multimeter.

So where do I go from here? Guess I need to find the immobiliser and trace the wiring from there so does anyone know where it's likely to be? (PM me if you don't want to disclose on here)

Or have I done something wrong or some other avenue for me to investigate?
Cheers,
Rob

I've found the immobiliser
There are two extra wires coming off it labelled LOCK and UNLOCK and they are dead-end wires not connected to anything apart from the wiring for the immobiliser.
When I use the Key fob button I get a flash of around 1V pop up on the multimeter when connected to LOCK, 2nd time I use the key fob button nothing.
Connect the multimeter to UNLOCK and use the key fob button and I get 1V flash up again, 2nd time nothing. This makes perfect sense as one wire is for locking and the other for unlocking.

So do I just need to connect these lock and unlock wires to the new central locking motor (i got a 5 wire) or do I connect them to the wiring in the door?

Central locking is now fixed
I connected the immobiliser lock and unlock wires to the door-lock-ecu connector (B12 on the wiring diagram) to pins 2 and 6, it's located under the steering column quite central and has writing on it to identify it's purpose.

Good stuff! Got wonder though, why the f*ck would anyone cut those wires? Shoddy immobiliser swap out maybe..

Yeah I reckon it was a rushed/cheap install and they couldn't be bothered linking it to the door control ecu which was pretty much right next to the immobiliser!

They often put cheap sh*tty ones in for compliance, mine had a problem with the immobilizer and wiring during my engine swap.

Seems it's made by Dynamco?

The brand I had was called like SUN-FUN-1 or something

Dynamco units aren't bad. They're one of the better brands.

Just a dodgy install then.