FTO AUSTRALIA

Crank pulleys on FTO's suck! Mine fell off along with all the belts on my first engine, then the second engine I went through 3 crank pulleys that all ended up throwing belts all the time. Ended up getting a brand new one from amayamayamaamanamamamayayamamamayaaa

This is a new one from Ama haha. RIP.

Do crank pulleys need to be balanced to the engine though?

spetz wrote:Do crank pulleys need to be balanced to the engine though?

Not to my knowledge. No idea though.

Should be.

Heaps of people have had this problem, never happened to me. Poorly put on if you ask me, not square, not enough thread lock used.

When I took my crank pulley off for the timing belt I noticed it had drilled out areas for balancing.
I don't know when this was done (ie, at the factory or when the engine was rebuilt and balanced).
Or whether all crank pulleys are balanced identically at the factory?

You'd think they come out of the factory all the same.

I'm more concerned about the bloody loud engine noise that Vectose thinks is probably an exhaust leak lol. A right racket it is.

And now it's stalling again or almost stalling at 500rpm when clutching in at a stop.

bjk wrote:And now it's stalling again or almost stalling at 500rpm when clutching in at a stop.

Does it have the bit?

Supplanter wrote:

bjk wrote:And now it's stalling again or almost stalling at 500rpm when clutching in at a stop.

Does it have the bit?

I replaced it with paper mâché.

Also never had a problem.

Use loctite and rattle gun the c**t on. If you aren't satisfied with that then torque it to spec. About 20 ugga duggs is what I use.

Daniel2019 wrote:Also never had a problem.

Use loctite and rattle gun the c**t on. If you aren't satisfied with that then torque it to spec. About 20 ugga duggs is what I use.

Are ugga duggs Mazda specific??

No, ugga duggs are specific to bolt size, material and strength.

If its still not tight enough...your definitly not holding your mouth in right position when tightening.

Got the car back. New bar but still that annoying tail light gap. Craig suggested could use washers before the nuts (because I can loosen it and push the light down to align it better) so might try that. It was less gappy after their last repair, and when I bought it though, so maaaybe I'll ask whether or not they can try to improve it more.



And that tapping near the pulleys seems louder. Dealing with that after I get back...

Check around the tail light inside the boot and see if the metal has been punched in.

getonit wrote:Check around the tail light inside the boot and see if the metal has been punched in.

There's nothing particularly untoward there that I can see, at least to the naked eye.

I can live with it, it's just gonna annoy the f**k outta me.

Throwing some money at the 6A13 shopping list. Bunch of gaskets and seals coming from Amayama, and just ordered the water pump, hydraulic lifters, and Denso spark plugs.

(oh and I'm acquiring Jack's GR rocker cover in exchange for goods and services)

Welp. Turns out the source of my failing pulleys is a worn crankshaft keyway. Mechanics managed to get it to work but it likely won't last forever (good thing the 6A13 is going in).



But when I went to pick it up the battery had given up holding charge, so they jumped it so I could get home. Fix one thing...



ed: might've been a bad earth as it's still starting now. Cleaned up the gearbox one. Even new pulley is still not looking happy, c'est la vie.

That happened to my first engine, that keyway gets chewed out pretty easily.
on a side note, you joined the forum a day before me lol weiiiiiiird, illuminati confirmed