FTO AUSTRALIA

Someone's made a claim of 140kw at the wheels from 100 with just bolt ons? Is this true?

If everything was working at best efficiency on a cold day. But that is the upper limit of what you will achieve whilst keeping the motor naturally aspirated. I believe Aza (forgot who it was lol) with his reconditioned motor and a port and polish achieved 137 atw.

Yep, you can get to that. Id make that if I removed my cat. Aza was close without a cat and he didnt have extractors.

Yes.

All that work for 30 kw? Was the 120 kw with just bolt ons and then you added the Haltec which im guessing is an ECU manged to net you another 11 kw?

Yep. The engine is pretty tuned from factory. Dont underestimate that power gain though.The car is light. I also owned a VR4 twin turbo legnum a few years ago. The FTO out accelerated it with that power gain.

dstocks wrote:Yep. The engine is pretty tuned from factory. Dont underestimate that power gain though.The car is light. I also owned a VR4 twin turbo legnum a few years ago. The FTO out accelerated it with that power gain.

Yea definately, I am so stoaked how well tuned these cars are but an additional 20kw won't hurt before ECU tuning.

Im just worried that with bolt ons alone will mess with how the engineer built the car? Will there be any adversary effects if I change the headers, exhaust and intake without re mapping with a custom ECU?

Hey,

The haltech Interceptor is a piggyback ECU, not a replacement so all you are doing is improving on the factory tune. You are still using the original ECU for most stuff. The Haltech just lets you (someone that knows what they are doing) fiddle with Air/Fuel and timing. The FTO is detuned at factory to handle crap fuel found in regional Japan. Tuning to run on 98 and tuning to make the most out of the bolt ons you have added will give you that gain. If you are worried, just do what I did and go for a mild tune instead of trying to wring every KW out. A mild tune will also give better fuel economy and wont effect life of the engine. Its only when you really push the tune that you risk damage/shorter life.

Yea I really don't want to compromise the engine's longevity, reliability is still top priority.

We have Mobil Synergy 8000 and BP 98 here in New Zealand but when we go out driving into the country roads that's where it gets hard to find 98.

So tuning to 95 would be much better idea.

But an additional 30kw is what 40hp? That brings the car to a little over the 200 BHP per ton power to weight ratio. How's torque steer and general powering out of corners like?

I tuned mine on a mix of 95 and 98 for just that reason. Cornering isnt affected at all. In fact my FTO also out cornered my legnum wagon (which was 4WD with active yaw control etc). But then I do have the LSD. I havent found the torque steer bad at all. Add much more than I have though and I do think the torque steer becomes an issue. Bennoz has dropped the legnum twin turbo engine in his FTO and had quite a few torque steer issues early on due to the power.

I like trees!

Ahh nice one Bennoz, must be one hell of a car on straights.

But yea I want to keep original engine, I do not want to mess with the balance of the car. I bought this car for the handling and the amazing MIVEC sounds. I have the GTO for all out grip and torque.

I think a 250 HP FTO is perfect and work to getting it down to 1,000 kilos - is that weight reduction even possible?

And a 50:50 weight distribution.

Don't think you'll get the weight reduction and even ratio at the same time. Could be wrong though! I remember Kiz telling me there was a handling difference when he relocated the battery to the boot.

You won't be able to make 250HP on an NA engine.

Vectose wrote:You won't be able to make 250HP on an NA engine.

Also that. For reference, vipfto is making almost that much on 8-9 psi of boost IIRC.

Vectose wrote:You won't be able to make 250HP on an NA engine.

Also that. For reference, vipfto is making almost that much on 8-9 psi of boost IIRC.[/quote]

Unless you are referring to 250HP at the flywheel. You will get to that figure then. Depends where you measure it. All quoted figures above are at the wheel figures though:

Stock GPX/Version R:

At the wheels: ~100KW/~134HP
At the flywheel: ~150KW/~201HP

Ive got 132KW atw which based on the figures above is 198KW/265HP at the flywheel unless I have stuffed my calculations

Yep think you've stuffed the calc up somewhere Dwayne, i'd say you're at about 165KW/221HP at the fly based on 20% transmission loss.
That's still bloody good though for an N/A car

So based on the fact that a stock FTO is 100ATW and 150 at the flywheel (documented as fact???), thats a 33% loss going from the flywheel to the wheels. Now im getting 132KW at the wheels (this must be at wheels as a stock FTO is 150KW at flywheel and I wouldnt have less). Using the above ratio, this should be equal to 132 + 132/2 which equals 198 at the flywheel. Then used a web calculator to get HP from that (http://www.convertunits.com/from/kW/to/hp). If you enter 132KW you get 176hp, but this is at the wheels. For flywheel I would have though 50% more based on initial ratio.

Are you able to tell me why this is incorrect Rob? For some reason im not seeing it?

Oh and here is the Dyno (before haltech is green and after is red):

yea wut? 30 kw = 40 HP

So if 131 kw ATW is 240 HP

Then at the flywheel should be well over 250

131kw is 175hp.......