Blowing white smoke, no oil getting to valve covers please HELP

[Funugs]

Im so f**king sick of this sh*t

Every time I put on the timing belt either the rear bank or the front bank is out by half a tooth, I have tried atleast 5 times and something is always out half a tooth, the tensioners are all new so its not that, every part of the belt is equally tight as f**k but still something is always still out half a tooth. So I decided f**k it, ill start her up and see how she runs, half a tooth is f**k all anyways, and im pretty sure I remember the original timing being out about half a tooth as well (might be just imagining this though)

So anyways I start it up, give it a bit of a rev, and it blows white smoke out the exhaust... fkn great.

Then I shut it off and open the oil cap to make sure my cams are nice and soaked in oil and its dry as fk and a tiny bit of white smoke comes out the oil cap as well

WTF is going on! if this car wasn't so damn sexy i would have pushed it off a cliff already!

[Daniel2019]

Take it to a mechanic.

[Funugs]

Take it to a mechanic.

No f**k that, not paying some asshat to spend 5mins looking at it then quote me $2k for a head gasket and oil pump when obviously something else is going on here, the car was absolutely fine before I decided to fix the oil leaks and do the timing.

if it aint broke dont fix it

[Funugs]

Maybe the oil thing is normal, I only ran it 3 times for about 4-8 seconds and I only rev'd it up to about 3k once. Is that enough time for oil to reach the valve cover?

I just don't believe half a tooth is really enough to cause smoke out the exhaust and increased engine vibration, it holds idle RPM well and doesn't tick or knock, but definitely doesn't sound like how it was before.

[Dras]

There are a few threads on here regarding the 1/2 tooth out. This is normal, the marks on the rear bank don't seem to line up quite right.

Give it more time, it will take more than a few seconds for everything to get well oiled.

[Funugs]

There are a few threads on here regarding the 1/2 tooth out. This is normal, the marks on the rear bank don't seem to line up quite right.

Give it more time, it will take more than a few seconds for everything to get well oiled.

You where right about the oil, I let it run a little longer and the oil made it to the top (pheww)

The car still sounds like sh*t though, there was a vac leak that I fixed up and now it runs a bit better, I start it up and there is less smoke and vibration, but the longer I run the car the more it smokes and vibrates, then it starts chugging and miss firing a bit, then I shut it off cus im scared.

Thing is, first time I timed it I was using the wrong mark on the crankshaft, someone marked the crank sprocket with white paint 1/4 of a turn anticlockwise, I was able to crank it over by hand though, there would be times where i couldn't crank it further anymore (well I could easily with a breaker bar or longer ratchet) then i moved it back a bit and pushed forward with some momentum and it kept going (if you kept up momentum it would not stop and you could hand crank it all day), I thought at the time this was just the valve spring tension or compression, but now im thinking it was actually a tiny bit of valve piston contact, like just touching the smallest bit, when I hit the starter in that timing setting it would crank over fine but never start.

Do my symptoms sound like a possible bent valve?

Everywhere I look online they say white smoke is coolant from a fkd head gasket, but I really doubt it as the car was fine before and I didn't remove the head or anything. The smoke is gassy i suppose, closest thing I could compare it to is when you start up a lawn mower and it blows a bit of white smoke.

[Daniel2019]

Take it to a good mechanic then...

They aren't all there to rip you off, ya know

Could be TPS or I also had a coilpack that was arcing out on the spark plug tube wall. Check to make sure they're all fine. One of mine was melted and it only had problems once it was warm. Take it to a good mechanic.

I don't think you will have valve piston contact. 99% sure we have non-interference motors. Take it to a good mechanic.

[Funugs]

Take it to a good mechanic then...

They aren't all there to rip you off, ya know

Could be TPS or I also had a coilpack that was arcing out on the spark plug tube wall. Check to make sure they're all fine. One of mine was melted and it only had problems once it was warm. Take it to a good mechanic.

I don't think you will have valve piston contact. 99% sure we have non-interference motors. Take it to a good mechanic.

They are definitely interference motors, couple times when I was doing the timing I had the rear cams lined up and I moved the crank and the piston would make contact and push the valve up then my cams would jump out of time again.

I have another plenum so ill try the TPS of that, see if it makes any difference. Could a failing coilpack be causing the white smoke from failed combustion maybe?

[Daniel2019]

I see....

[Funugs]

Pulled the front bank spark plugs and they are very carbon'd up (brand new plugs), so the smoke is most likely from running too rich. If it was a head gasket coolant leak then im pretty sure the plugs would be clean and so would the piston cus the coolant steams clean all the carbon off.

[Funugs]

I redid the timing today so the half tooth off was now half tooth forward instead of backward, no change.

Pulled the plenum to look at the rear bank spark plugs, they are all the same as the front bank, very carbon'd up.

(this is a brand new plug, has only been run for a couple minutes)

My next train of thought is that maybe because the alternator isnt running the ECU has gone into some kind of limp mode and is running the car rich, so ill be putting the alternator back on next and seeing what happens.

If someone has any suggestions i would appreciate some help with this sh*t.

[SchumieFan]

What have you had off the plenum?
Hows your map sensor?

If your cam teeth are out you havnt got the crank in the right spot... suggest following the instructions on the workshop manual and that should remedy your timing issue.

Also was fairly certain these are non interference motors (ben?)

[Daniel2019]

Also was fairly certain these are non interference motors (ben?)

Yeah.. like I said thats what I always thought.

[Funugs]

Theres quite a few threads out there that say it is an interference engine viewtopic.php?f=21&t=25017

Ok so I've practically re assembled the whole car, it runs a lot smoother with the alternator and all accessory's on there, still pissing smoke out the back though. When I rev the engine some water spits out the tailpipe, so I took it for a small drive car feels good, pulls well, came back and the car no longer smoked. (Yippeee)

I turn the car off, and I can hear something dripping, sounds like there is literally something leaking inside my exhaust from under the engine. So I let it sit for like 5mins, start her up again, smoke again, give it a rev, more clear water out the pipe. WTF? Let it idle for 5 mins, rev it a few times, smoke goes away. I know it sounds like its just condensation, but this is too much smoke to be that, normally with condensation, you rev the engine and theres no smoke, then u let off and it starts smoking again, this is the opposite. My coolant looks fine and so does my oil, but its like my headgasket leaks heavily on start up then doesnt leak when warm, then starts leaking again when the car is off, but this makes no sense cus the head gasket was fine before I did the timing and I hear head gasket failure in these cars is pretty rare. Also the exhaust smells like normal exhaust fumes, no sweet coolant smell or burning oil smell.

[Funugs]

Ok its looking bad now... turns out the white smoke doesn't disappear after the car warms up, it comes back. It disappears when the radiator fans turn on, then when the fans turns off it starts smoking again... head gasket right?

[Funugs]

So my understanding is that the thermostat stays closed till the engine is warmed up then it opens and lets coolant flow through the radiator and it turns the fan on to help cool the coolant. So when the thermostat is closed the water pressure is too high for my head gasket and it leaks coolant into the combustion chambers. So what if I removed the thermostat and let the coolant flow freely at all times till I find a new engine?

Or does anyone know any good stop leak coolant additives?

[Daniel2019]

f**k me, ok, it really is time to take it to a mechanic. Get a comp test done.

[Funugs]

f**k me, ok, it really is time to take it to a mechanic. Get a comp test done.

WTF is a comp test ganna do, it drives fine, sounds fine, just blows smoke, it has to be the gasket unless there is some other way coolant find its way into the exhaust pipe.

[Daniel2019]

Yes, a comp test will tell you if it has a blown head gasket or not...

[Funugs]

Yes, a comp test will tell you if it has a blown head gasket or not...

comp tests are generally an unreliable and sh*t way of detecting it, HGF can cause lower compression, or higher compression, or not affect it at all.