FTO AUSTRALIA

For those of you who have fitted a standalone ECU how have you told the ECU the ignition pattern from the crank trigger wheel? I have a 6A13TT FTO which I have had up and running on an Emanage Ultimate but had too many issues with it so currently switching over to a ECUMaster EMU standalone.

For those who havent seen one before the crank trigger wheel is behind the pulley here and has three large lobes on it ...


Cheers

Depends on EMU it may only require 1x trigger so removal of others required,

Yep, I ground mine down, only left one tab for Haltech.

Bennoz wrote:Yep, I ground mine down, only left one tab for Haltech.

On the crank? I left all 3 on the crank and just ground down 3 off the cam.

Why would you cut any of the tabs off? This and the cam trigger wheel tell the ecu what positions the pistons are in.

I haven't seen the cam trigger wheel yet. Does it look like the one on the GTO? ...



The GTO crank wheel looks identical to ours.

I would assume the Haltech that these guys are running only needs one reference point running past the crank angle sensor.

Needs one on the cam sensor. Crank stays the same.

Ahh good old Rob, I'm adding you to my growing list of people that are going to die alone, next to Daniel

He's quite right though, I was thinking cam sensor. V6 Mitsi engine need a minimum of 3 tabs, to indicate the 3 possible crank locations for a wasted spark system.

And playing around with all this was one of the reasons I got with of the Wolf V500 ECU . CBFd

Too lazy to cut off 3 tabs with tin snips? Takes 30 seconds and all you have to remove is the front timing cover.

And would've saved $2000 lol

Bennoz wrote:Ahh good old Rob, I'm adding you to my growing list of people that are going to die alone, next to Daniel

If he's next to me when we die then neither of us will be alone.

Daniel2019 wrote:

Bennoz wrote:Ahh good old Rob, I'm adding you to my growing list of people that are going to die alone, next to Daniel

If he's next to me when we die then neither of us will be alone.

2getha 4eva.

But who's the little spoon?

Vectose wrote:Too lazy to cut off 3 tabs with tin snips? Takes 30 seconds and all you have to remove is the front timing cover.

The cam trigger wheel is secured behind the actual cam pulley wheel itself. This means timing belt off and the pulley removed from the cam to get at it doesn't it?

I'm getting my head around the trigger wheels now, i just need to select the right options in the software as its asking about falling edge and degrees, etc. I'll post a screenshot up, you guys might be able to point me in the right direction.

I can play around with the mapping side of things but this primary ignition thing is something i need to get right before i turn the engine over.

The plate is attached to the back of the cam gear. But the tabs protrude past it and can be cut off. Would also need to remove the rocker cover then can easily cut them off.

Vectose wrote:The plate is attached to the back of the cam gear. But the tabs protrude past it and can be cut off. Would also need to remove the rocker cover then can easily cut them off.

Gotcha, took the rocker cover off tonight and can see how easy it would be to hack them off if needed.

Heres a screenshot of the EMU software I am using, it allows you to select all kinds of different options from number of teeth to angles, etc ...

The primary trigger is the crank and the secondary is the camshaft. I understand how the crank sensor works but dont understand why I need to cut the lobes off the cam sensor though

Would one of you guys be able to screenshot your ignition options you have chosen so I can get my head around it?

Ooo flex fuel options tab...

Yep, you can configure it for an alternative fuel. It has a really good spec list for the price.

OK, heres a diagram of our ignition, this is from a GTO but ours work the same ...





The shaded squares represent the teeth on the crank and cam trigger wheels. I can configure my ecu to read any configuration of multitooth signals by the looks of it. Do I only need the larger lobe on the cam trigger wheel to read Cylinder 1 TDC then do away with the other three that i've highlighted with red dots?

Also, what have you folks done with the alternator wiring when you have fitted a standalone as two of the wires go into the VR4 ECU .. have you kept the VR4 ECU for this and the diagnostic side of things and let the standalone do the rest?

Yes you keep the larger tab and cut off the smaller ones.

You don't need the alternator wires going to the ECU. You can get rid of them.

What were the alternator wires to the ECU for then? Just a voltage reading?