FTO AUSTRALIA

My bet is that you have to much toe in on one side causing that wear on the tires, that's extreme camber wear if not

Don't think its the toe, because I would've felt my steering sway, but my steering wasn't affected at all.. The car drove in a straight line after my alignment.

Just used the engine crane for the first time, moved the engine to the other side of the garage. Used an engine crane for the first time in my life, by myself
*Suddenly feels like Dom from Fast and Furious




But yeah I can't believe it. The FTO is now ready for its swap :S
Don't know if I should be happy or sad.. I'm going to miss this engine. Last clock count of 115,503kms. Engine still in amazing condition (only the oil leak which i'll fix when its out of the car).






Tomorrow... I start to strip things from the engine bay. Engine and gearbox should hopefully be out of the car by Friday / the end of the week.
(I only work on the car for 30-60 minutes at a time, when I take a break from studying)

Against my better judgement I have to agree with Sahin.
Such wear is generally not from camber but a combination of camber and toe which causes heaps of scrub.

Had you been driving for thousands of km camber might explain it but a month is not enough.

Either way let us know what the alignment shop says and great work on the car

Cheers!
Yeah probably a combination of both. Either way, it was unnoticeable, in terms of noise or even a visual difference, until I saw the tyre with the bumper off.
Not going to bother taking it back to them to try get reimbursed because I have no proof, and also the FTO isn't completely drivable at the moment.
Time to move onto bigger and better things

Using an engine crane by myself to lift my own 6A13 off the back of my housemate's very tall Triton was also fun.

And famous last words, Shaheel.

Bennoz wrote:Overall plan, is to do this on a budget & quickly. Keeping as much of the 6A13 as stock as possible.

bjk wrote:Using an engine crane by myself to lift my own 6A13 off the back of my housemate's very tall Triton was also fun.

And famous last words, Shaheel.

Bennoz wrote:Overall plan, is to do this on a budget & quickly. Keeping as much of the 6A13 as stock as possible.

*cough* 10k! *cough*

Bennoz wrote:

bjk wrote:Using an engine crane by myself to lift my own 6A13 off the back of my housemate's very tall Triton was also fun.

And famous last words, Shaheel.

Bennoz wrote:Overall plan, is to do this on a budget & quickly. Keeping as much of the 6A13 as stock as possible.

*cough* 10k! *cough*

Bennoz wrote:My budget is $6 grand.

Love the box work


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

^^^^ $6k

Cheers mate!

So I finished one of my lab reports yesterday, and thought i'd reward myself to an hour of car work


Started removing bits and pieces to get this engine out.

This is what the tyre looked like.. Didn't have a good life at all




And this is the bumper frame that is completely wrecked, and is barely hanging on (Thanks to the idiot who reversed into my car while i was at work)
I'll probably need a new bumper because theres cracks everywhere and the bumper is just in crap condition now (after 2 accidents)





Removed a fair bit of things when i worked on the car at night..
Jacked it up, drained all the fluids, removed the radiator, fans, intake, strut brace, FPR, catch can etc.





I should be able to remove a bit more things like the y-pipe and drop the hubs tonight, so hopefully tomorrow, all thats left is really just the electricals, and the engine can come out

Sweeeeet, so.. Just worked on the removal for a few hours.
Removed the y-pipe, intake manifold, and got the wiring harness completely off (Without breaking or cutting a single clip )

Umm yeaaaahhh.. I'm pretty damn close to getting this engine out!







The plan is, remove all connections so that the engine and gearbox can drop to the floor. Before dropping it, loosen/remove all the bolts that hold the gearbox to the engine. Then drop the engine onto a tyre and slide the gearbox off


So all thats really left is:
- Remove driveshafts
- Unbolt AC Compressor
- Loosen gearbox bolts
- Remove crossmember
- Remove gearbox/engine mounts
- Engine gets dropped to the flooorr!


Not that i've ever done an engine removal before, but i think i should be able to get it out completely by myself, and hopefully if I get enough study done tomorrow, I can spend a few hours and get the engine bay completely empty!

Just be careful mate, don't want you dropping heavy automotive parts on your fingers like other members have done. Nice progress though

hahah yeah
Helped another FTO mate remove his gearbox, and it partially dropped on my finger. Pretty sure i broke it because it was sore for more than a few weeks lol

But lets see how i go with this removal. Going to take the plunge and see if i can do it myself

I'd drop both out and remove the box after? So much easier to get the bolts out
Drop one side then the other

Yeah, i just removed the alternator, so theres much more space. Now all thats left is removing the mounts and dropping it down.
Only thing is, the subframe looks like it's slightly in the way near the alternator side of the engine, and manoeuvring the engine and gearbox around isn't super easy; i only have straps to hold the engine. So i could use a trolley jack to lower the gearbox down, but might be a little tricky. Either way, thats what i'll do because its much more simple

Yay. So. Removed the engine - dropped the gearbox first and then just removed the engine from the top; probably the easiest way. I was just contemplating which way to do it. But yeah, got it out all by myself.. Super proud because this is my first ever engine removal, and i did it all by myself haha

It was actual pretty easy. I took a quick time-lapse of it:

(Most of the video is me trying to get the engine mount bolt off, being stuck because i had to align the engine at the right height/angle to get it to slide out. But got there in the end, after a bit of fluffing around)





Looks like I also ruined my rear crossmember bush. Slightly surprised I ruined it, because its a hardened ralliart / evo 1-3 bush from Meek. Probably due to all my mods and upgrades (of suspension, braking etc)
So i guess it's time to get a poly bush just for that rear mount (Not going to replace all of them to poly, because I don't want lots of cabin vibration)






Seriously can't believe there's nothing in my engine bay, I'm legit so stoked.







Time to start getting creative and doing all the nitty gritty things. Lots of stuff to do with the engine and gearbox out. Starting with disassembling the gearbox, possibly replacing any worn bearings, and installing the Wavetrac LSD!
(Might also see if I can get an engineering company to do something about the input shaft bearing, because I don't want to be breaking that every 2 seconds. Hopefully we can get a tapered bearing made, with the correct dimensions, or some sort of bearing that can handle more power)

Rear mount isn't ralliart hardness. It's the only one meek sell that isn't and that's why it gets torn.

Exact same thing happened to myself and FTOwnage. It even caused my crossmember to crack.

Ah yeah.
They're OEM Evo1-3 bushes

Yeah, that's why I ended up going full Poly. As for in cabin vibration, I haven't noticed an unbearable amount of it. They are stiff for sure, but they're slotted and not solid so there's still a bit of give in them.

Slotted will help reduce the vibrations a fair bit.

Nice progress with the car too mate. So satisfying doing sh*t by yourself too...only way to learn I think.