FTO AUSTRALIA

Hi everyone,

I know there are a lot of threads on this already but I was unable to find the answer I needed in them.

I have two questions:
1. What torque settings should the locking nut be tightened to?
2. I know the factory specs, but is there some kind of "trick" in getting it just right? ie, will the clearance increase slightly when tightening the locking nut and hence the need to set the clearance slightly less than the specs to make up for this?


I feel very confident in tackling this job but I am hoping for any suggestions or tips to make sure everything turns out 100% perfect.

RTFM.

"Read the f**king manual"
-Daniel 2017

Thanks guys,

Neither of these questions are covered in the manual...
It just says "tighten lock nut" but no torque spec neither in the directions nor in the torque listings at the beginning of the manual.

And the tips would obviously be from someone who's done it before

In that case, tight enough to hold it and not so tight that you snap it?

Come on dude. Nip it up with a 1/4in ratchet or a small spanner..

The reason it doesn't have torque specs in manual is because it has to be tightened while holding the screw with a screwdriver.

Don't go tightening it afterwards or it will mess up the clearance.

Thanks Vectose,
That makes sense as I was wondering if tightening the locknut would have an effect on the clearance.

Is it easy to get the clearances wrong even if you measure/check everything?

Just need to follow the workshop manual to a tee and you should be right.

Your feeler gauge should have some resistance on it when sliding it through, but not so much that you can't re insert it once removed.

Yes the manual says that when the turning torque changes... so when I feel resistance in screwing in the adjustment screw.
I also recall something in the manual that said that on the shared rocker arm you adjust one screw, then the other, then back to the first (need to brush up on the manual before I start this of course)

spetz wrote:Yes the manual says that when the turning torque changes... so when I feel resistance in screwing in the adjustment screw.
I also recall something in the manual that said that on the shared rocker arm you adjust one screw, then the other, then back to the first (need to brush up on the manual before I start this of course)

Yeah mate that bit is either in the manual or in guides that have been written (or both).
I've done them a few times but still never got them super quiet, need to revisit mine.

While you're at it maybe also (or first) remove the other lifters - the hydraulic ones (or whatever they are called) and clean them up, soak them in something and then re-oil before refitting, then get on with your tappets/lifters. I think Ben did a guide on it a while back, there's one here too https://ftoworx.wordpress.com/2014/07/1 ... c-tappets/

Thanks Rob,
Yeah I've read on the forums some people tried to do this but there was still ticking so I am really hoping to get it right.

Those hydraulic tappets are used to engage the MIVEC system and I don't think they could cause any ticking.
What happens is oil is directed towards them via the MIVEC solenoid and they end up locking the rocker arms onto the high lobe cam.
There are other hydraulic lifters to memory that do the opposite (ie to unlock).

My heads have been fully rebuilt and acid dipped so I am not taking those out to clean them at this stage.

Yeah, the hydraulic ones won't cause ticking in the MIVEC engine.

Yeah a lot of it is about feel. But as I said if you follow the manual and make sure the resistance on the feeler is as I stated previously you should be fine.

If yours were still ticking did you consider perhaps going 0.01mm less in clearances?

How the f**k are you going to measure 0.01mm? Lol

Sahin wrote:How the f**k are you going to measure 0.01mm? Lol

With a feeler gauge?

Bennoz wrote:

Sahin wrote:How the f**k are you going to measure 0.01mm? Lol

With a feeler gauge?

Sahin can't feeler gauge, he can only feeler up.
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I'll see myself out

Tune the tappets by ear

What's the harm in doing it twice if not satisfactory?


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spetz wrote:Thanks Rob,
Yeah I've read on the forums some people tried to do this but there was still ticking so I am really hoping to get it right.

Those hydraulic tappets are used to engage the MIVEC system and I don't think they could cause any ticking.
What happens is oil is directed towards them via the MIVEC solenoid and they end up locking the rocker arms onto the high lobe cam.
There are other hydraulic lifters to memory that do the opposite (ie to unlock).

My heads have been fully rebuilt and acid dipped so I am not taking those out to clean them at this stage.

Oh my bad, well I won't bother removing mine either then unless there's another benefit.

Sahin wrote:How the f**k are you going to measure 0.01mm? Lol

I'm not sure if you took my suggestion as "set clearance to 0.13mm and then somehow magically remove exactly 0.01mm of clearance" but what I meant is to set them as 0.12mm and 0.09mm to begin with.

Vectose wrote:Tune the tappets by ear

Not sure for if srs?

silverGPX wrote:What's the harm in doing it twice if not satisfactory?


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In fairness I am sure they can be done multiple times but who wants to do that? And if you try 5 times and they are still ticking will you keep trying?

Rob Furniss wrote: Oh my bad, well I won't bother removing mine either then unless there's another benefit.

In fact if I am not mistake (I would need to look at the heads again) but those top hydraulic tappets are used to disengage MIVEC, ie, after the revs drop below 5,500rpm. There are other ones that engage MIVEC after 5,500rpm.