FTO AUSTRALIA

We have a manual box here ready to go into Rowans car when he gets his engine back, is there a definite 'you should always replace xyz..' etc , we don't know what state the box was in really before it came out of the previous car.
We have 'normal' tools but no press etc.

Start by feeling the input shaft. Does it move in & out at all? Up & down at all?

Bennoz wrote:Start by feeling the input shaft. Does it move in & out at all? Up & down at all?

Bennoz wrote:Start by feeling the input shaft. Does it move in & out at all? Up & down at all?

Thanks Ben
OK just been and had a good tug on the shaft in all directions, it rotates freely but doesn't seem to be much/any play at all side to side, up / down in/out.
What's next?

Also, inside the casing is covered in shite, can I use a degreaser on it?

I'd chuck a bearing and seal kit through it. While the box is out. Especially considering he will be putting out more power than stock.

Can pull the shafts out and take them to someone with a press.

Vectose wrote:I'd chuck a bearing and seal kit through it. While the box is out. Especially considering he will be putting out more power than stock.

Can pull the shafts out and take them to someone with a press.

Thanks, is it an easy job to get the shafts out, follow that guide that shiggz did?
Will most mechanics know what to do with them when I turn up with the shafts and kit or does it have to be a gearbox specialist?
What's this bearing and seal kit and where from?

Cheers,
Rob

Yes getting the shafts out is easy enough. Just follow Shiggz guide and download the gearbox workshop manual from the downloads section. It also tells you how to rebuild the box. www.ftoaustralia.com/downloads

Any mechanic SHOULD know how to do it but probably best to take it to a gearbox place.

You can get everything from Amayama. I'll grab the part numbers later tonight for you.

Or you can buy the F5M42 kit from Cobra Transmissions in the US but it costs a bit more last I checked.

You also need to check the clearances with the new bearings in place with a piece of 1.6mm solder. If out of spec need to get new shims to bring back to spec. This part is easy enough to do and is in the gearbox workshop manual.

Thanks Rob, appreciate that.

Oven cleaner will remove all that sh*t in the bell housing quickly.
Spray on wait for it to do its thing..hose off.

Might want to give the syncros a visual inspection while it's apart as well. I'd hate to put a bearing kit through it then have it crunch into 2nd lol

Bennoz wrote:Might want to give the syncros a visual inspection while it's apart as well. I'd hate to put a bearing kit through it then have it crunch into 2nd lol

Hence why I recommended taking shafts in to gearbox place. They'll be able to tell you if synchros are stuffed or not if you're not sure what you're looking for.

Vectose wrote:

Bennoz wrote:Might want to give the syncros a visual inspection while it's apart as well. I'd hate to put a bearing kit through it then have it crunch into 2nd lol

Hence why I recommended taking shafts in to gearbox place. They'll be able to tell you if synchros are stuffed or not if you're not sure what you're looking for.

Surely you have a video of someone doing this... oh wait

Bennoz wrote:

Vectose wrote:

Bennoz wrote:Might want to give the syncros a visual inspection while it's apart as well. I'd hate to put a bearing kit through it then have it crunch into 2nd lol

Hence why I recommended taking shafts in to gearbox place. They'll be able to tell you if synchros are stuffed or not if you're not sure what you're looking for.

Surely you have a video of someone doing this... oh wait :lol:

The video doesn't show how to inspect synchros. :lol:

Input Shaft Inner Bearing: MD700207 (Replacement part number: 2526A001)
Input Shaft Outer Bearing: MD717670

Output Shaft Inner Bearing: MD747707
Output Shaft Outer Bearing: MD747740

Diff Bearings: 2x MD710663

Input Shaft Seal: MD741818

Outer case cap/seal: MD746157

Driveshaft Seals: 2x MD755526


I also forgot to mention one of the bearings is actually pressed in to one side of the case. So will have to take that in to be pressed out/in too.