FTO AUSTRALIA

This will probably come out as a DIY guide, but as Steve is a little snowed under, I'll post it here too.

Headlight Upgrade
HB4 / 9006 to HB3 / 9005 Conversion

Overview
Many people find the standard FTO headlights to be quite dull. While there are many aftermarket bulb upgrades, one of the cheapest and most effective is as simple as replacing your low-beam globes with high-beam globes.

As with many cars, the FTO uses HB4 / 9006 globes for the low-beam and HB3 / 9005 globes for the high-beam. HB3 globes produce around 70% more light than HB4 globes while only using an additional 10W of power. Some bulb manufacturers are now making HB3 globes with a halogen / xenon mix which increases the brightness by around 30%. When you compare the cost and brightness of the HB3 and HB3 +30 globes to other alternatives such as HID kits, they become a very attractive option.

HB4 - 1,000 lumens, 51W, $20
HB3 - 1,700 lumens, 60W, $20
HB3 +30 - 2,200 lumens, 60W, $30
HID - 3,000 lumens, 35W, $500
* Light output and cost are approximate and will differ depending upon brands and models.

Most cars use reflector based headlight systems, and if you were to replace the low-beam globes with high-beam ones it would cause issues. Reflector based headlights have less control over the distribution of light and for this reason the connectors on HB3 and HB4 globes are different so that you don’t accidentally put a high-beam globe in a low-beam socket. In a similar manner, normal low-beam globes have a coated tip to minimise glare from reflector based headlights.

With the FTO, the issue of glare and stray light is virtually eliminated through the use of projector based headlights. The advantage of projector based headlights is that they focus the light much better than reflector based headlights, creating a very precise light distribution pattern. They also have a cut-off which prevents stray light from dazzling the oncoming traffic and cars in front of you.

Process
The HB3 and HB4 globes look almost identical, but they have been designed so as to prevent you accidentally putting them in the wrong socket. To overcome this issue there are three modifications that need to be made to the HB3 globe so that it will fit in the HB4 socket.

Flange
The flange of the HB3 and HB4 globes are mirror images of each other. To allow the HB3 globe to fit in the HB4 socket, the centre flange must be trimmed. Do not completely remove this flange otherwise the globe can come loose.


Connector
The connector on the HB4 globes is keyed with a single ridge, while the HB3 globes have two ridges. By removing the two ridges, the HB3 globe will then fit in the HB4 connector. Even without these ridges the globe is still held firmly in place by the locking catch. The ridges can be filed down or cut out.

O-Ring Seal
Although the HB3 globe has an o-ring seal, the size of it is smaller than the HB4 o-ring seal. To resolve this, simply take the o-ring seal off your old HB4 globes and slip it over the top of the HB3 globe. This o-ring is needed to ensure a proper seal, without it the globe will sit loose and possibly wobble out.


Alignment
In the process of replacing the globes you may have altered their alignment. It pays to double check this and if necessary rectify the problem. Even with the projector headlight cut-off, if the light is angled too high it could shine into the eyes of oncoming traffic or those in front of you.

Before taking out your old globes, it could be helpful to mark their position on a wall with a piece of chalk. Then when you put the new globes in you can ensure the new ones are aligned the same.

Result
The result of this modification is outstanding! The light produced is very bright and makes a huge difference.

Driver’s side globe is a HB3 +30% while the passengers side globe uses a standard HB4 globe.

RichardH wrote: It's worth noting that at no point in your hacking, filing, swearing frenzy of globe modification should you lay a finger on the actual glass bit. If you do, there goes any hope of the globe lasting any length of time. It has to be totally untouched, with no oily fingerprints.

really good point - take note!
It will be pretty hard to avoid touching the globe, so get yourself some isopropal alcohol, it's the stuff they use in cleaning fluid for cassette and VCR cleaners. I bought a pack of 5 isopropal alcohol wipes from Jaycar for around $4.00. If you can't get the wipes, just get some head cleaning fluid from Dick Smith or Tandy and put it on a VERY clean cotton cloth. Use this to clean the globes and remove any traces of oils that got on the globes from your skin.

Isopropal alcohol is a very thin alcohol and leaves no residue, hence this is why it is used for cleaning purposes. It is however HIGHLY evaporative. If you leave the wipe alone for 2 mins it's completely dry.

Very very very interesting, good stuff ruchi, but how safe is this? Do u have to increase the amp for your fuse?

How safe? In what way?

I am interested in this conversion too,
For this price, this looks like a great upgrade opportunity.

Ruchi,
have you done this upgrade on your car?
Could the difference of 10w (65w-55w) overload the system?
Is it legal?

ruchi wrote:How safe? In what way?

Sorry mate i edited my msg to made it clear (didn't want to put another post). So what i mean is do i need to change the fuse or even the cable to cope with the extra 10w.

The increase in power to 60W uses an additional 1.5 amps (0.75 amps per globe). The existing cabling can easily handle that and from what I can tell the headlight fuses still have 2-3 amps of headroom before they would blow.

As to the legalities, this would be a grey area. The answer is that it is probably OK, but I cannot say for sure. But the chances of anyone knowing are so incredibly small. The globes look the same, so it's not obvious, unlike doing a HID kit upgrade which would be much more obvious. The lights look standard, so the only way someone could tell is if they were to pull the lights out and inspect them very closely (i.e. completely unplug them and inspect the connector).

I used the Narva HB3 +30's and at the same time I also replaced my high-beams with the same globe and replaced my driving lights with the H3 +30's. Although not "HID white" the light is certainly "whiter" than the standard lights, but the brightness and the way the light up the road ahead of you is amazing.

Ruchi,
I will get this tommorrow, if you can tell me where to get it from. (and the price)
I searched the using the keyword "HB +30" or "Narva HB3 +30", however, nothing come out.

Are any of the below can be possible to use as well(HB +30)?
- HB3 - 9005 RANGE POWER BLUE XENON - 4000° Kelvin
- PIAA PLATINUM SERIES 9005 HEAD LAMP SUPER WHITE HB3
- 6000K 55W PLATINUM-WHITE 9005 HB3 HEADLIGHT BULBS

Also found this link, which is supporting you, and practical photos
http://users.bigpond.net.au/startrade/o ... bs-LB.html

LOL! If I knew of that link I could have saved myself a lot of time!

You can use any brand you like, I choose the Narva +30 due to the brightness and price (around $30 for pack of two HB3). You might want to choose other brands for other reasons e.g. colour etc.

Here's the details from the Narva website.
http://www.narva.com.au/Globes_21.html

mxysxy wrote:6000K 55W PLATINUM-WHITE 9005 HB3 HEADLIGHT BULBS

These globes would offer little advantage or may infact even be worse as they are the same wattage as the standard HB4's.

So, what about Narva +50 then?

HB3, HB4 & H3 are only available as +30 and not +50

Great, looks like this is the cheapest & the most affective mod. Thumbs up ruchi

Just talked with Narv on the phone, and they said, this product is avalable at Repco. Called Repco to get a price, but off business ours at the moment.
Just a clarification that so, I dont ??c? up, I will ask for Narva HB3 +30 Headlights.

As I said above, it's your choice as to which brand and model you choose. I went for the Narva HB3 +30s because I felt they offered the best brightness for the money. But you might prefer another brand or another model. Even Narva have an "artic" range which produces a whiter colour but they're not as bright (but when you see how bright these are the artic could still be a valid option), you might prefer them over the +30's.

You can buy the Narva ones from either Autobarn or Repco (and probably elsewhere like Supercheap Auto etc.) for around $30 for two.

mxysxy wrote:Just talked with Narv on the phone, and they said, this product is avalable at Repco. Called Repco to get a price, but off business ours at the moment.
Just a clarification that so, I dont ??c? up, I will ask for Narva HB3 +30 Headlights.

Narva headlights are availible everywhere, Autobarn, Repco, Supercheap, Burson, & any other chan store would have them.


Edit: Dam ruchi beat me to it hahahahah

LOL! posting at the same time!

Hey can you guys try and explain the flange part a bit more clearer?
Cause I don't really get it....

The web site and ruchi are saying two different things aren't they?
Any pics of before and after the mod?

Thanks,

The very first picture is a "before and after" shot. It even has a red arrow pointing to the bit you need to trim.

aaahhhh.....
Sorry I was mistaken and were looking at the black arm...not the one the arrow was pointing at...

Anyway, what is the difference between doing this and changing the same bulb to a higher wattage one?

Thanks,

So judging by what I read, the High Beam wount be effected much, and the High beam, will still be a high beam, because the design of the headlight is diffrent to the projector, and it points higher?

Correct?