FTO AUSTRALIA

As per title,

Car has began to develop a bit of a flat spot, around 3000rpm.

Car is also misfiring I think, idling I can hear 'pops' in the cabin and the exhaust is inconsistent, no codes beyond 62 though.

When I open the throttle I also get a large sound of air coming from somewhere, sounds like it is coming from the back of the intake, sprayed brake cleaner around and no change in idle, also cant feel air coming off any of the vac hoses. Sound only happens when throttle opens from closed for a split second, holding throttle open there is no sound.

Well 62 does say air intake control valve. Got a spare one of them you could throw on to test?

Bennoz wrote: ↑Mon May 20, 2019 7:28 am Well 62 does say air intake control valve. Got a spare one of them you could throw on to test?

I do not, this isn't referring to to the stepper motor is it? This is the motor that controls the valves in the intake above 5000rpm?

I wish it had more codes as this flatspot/miss is killing me!

It's that big black sensor on the drivers side end of the intake manifold & it does control valves in the intake. It would explain a lot of your issues if it's shot..

Wiring on the plug to it may also be damaged.

Bennoz wrote: ↑Mon May 20, 2019 1:55 pm It's that big black sensor on the drivers side end of the intake manifold & it does control valves in the intake. It would explain a lot of your issues if it's shot..

Wiring on the plug to it may also be damaged.

Ah I see, I assumed it only actuates beyond 5000rpm. I think the workshop manual details how to test it, but if you know a good way I am all ears

Can't seem to find a part number for the sensor either

You can see the worm drive spin when you free rev the engine past 4,500rpm, so that's the first thing I would check.
Upon reinstall you need to set the valves to "closed" (I believe the spring open naturally). You do this by installing the valve motor 90 degrees off and then spinning it to the correct direction.

I believe I have one of those valve motors if you cannot find one

spetz wrote: ↑Tue May 21, 2019 1:05 am You can see the worm drive spin when you free rev the engine past 4,500rpm, so that's the first thing I would check.
Upon reinstall you need to set the valves to "closed" (I believe the spring open naturally). You do this by installing the valve motor 90 degrees off and then spinning it to the correct direction.

I believe I have one of those valve motors if you cannot find one

Will let you know, I would have removed it for the timing belt, do I just remove it, rev it and see if it moves?

Yes, if you rev it past 4500rpm you should see the worm drive spin

spetz wrote: ↑Tue May 21, 2019 10:56 pm Yes, if you rev it past 4500rpm you should see the worm drive spin

Worm drive didn't spin



How do I check the voltage between 2, 4 and earth? Should both 2 and 4 earth read the same?

Also as soon as I open throttle I get a big woosh sound, louder the more I open it. Not a vac leak as it is only as soon as throttle opens, is this sound normal and I have just never noticed?

TBH I am not sure how to check the voltage.
When mine didn't work the weird thing was that manually getting it to open/close with a scan tool was possible, but the ECU wasn't able to control it.
I thought it must've been a wiring issue (the 6A12 is in a Lancer so I thought something was done incorrectly during the conversion) however after swapping in a new one it worked fine.

You can drive the car with them in the open position, it just loses some bottom end power (I never noticed a difference)

spetz wrote: ↑Sun May 26, 2019 10:34 pm TBH I am not sure how to check the voltage.
When mine didn't work the weird thing was that manually getting it to open/close with a scan tool was possible, but the ECU wasn't able to control it.
I thought it must've been a wiring issue (the 6A12 is in a Lancer so I thought something was done incorrectly during the conversion) however after swapping in a new one it worked fine.

You can drive the car with them in the open position, it just loses some bottom end power (I never noticed a difference)

Reason for that is probably that the scan tool would be operating the DC motor directly, whereas if the ECU isn't getting the correct signals from the two hall effect sensors inside then it would just give an error and not operate it.