1994 Mitsubishi FTO V6 MIVEC 2.0L Sunroof Model

[Rustin]

Hi, i’m looking for DESPERATE HELP ON MY FTO...

Car is sitting at 105,990 kms and is a 1994 V6 MIVEC 2.0L 4 spd auto with tiptronic

So far i have the done:
* Engine oil service with oil fter replaced
* Auto-Trans Fluid with Filter replaced
* All 6 Spark Plugs Rellaced
* New Ultra-High Perfromance Battery
* New Idle Speed Control Valve
* Throttle body Clean

So starting from cold start on a cold monday morning at 8 AM, i put the keys in start the car, it sometimes starts and revs to 2000 rpm and just goes down to 0 and dies (unless i keep my foot on the pedal) at other times it starts and revs up to 2000 rpm and goes down to about 100-200 rpm and just idles there till it warms up completely and stays at about 500-800 rpm bouncing up and down.

While i drive it feels like i’m losing air and the throttle is weak, it goes very poorly up hills and the acceleration of the car is VERY weak.

At day/night time when i am idling and the car has warmed up, it is at about 600-800 rpm on drive and neatrul but in drive it sits at 200-300 rpm when idling.

When i turn the lights on at night and im idking in the car the idle of the car drops to 300-400 rpm in park or neatrul and 100 rpm in drive.

When idling and driving the car sounds like some kind of misfiring or something.

The rear rock cover also has a crack in it which i will also be fixing very soon.

[mezje]

No need to make 2 posts. Dartboard says stepper motor.

Did you play with the idle screw?

[Rustin]

No need to make 2 posts. Dartboard says stepper motor.

Did you play with the idle screw?

No i haven’t played with the idle screw.

[adzski]

Have you checked error codes?

[Rustin]

Have you checked error codes?

I didn’t have a OBD2 reader to scan the codes so i took the car to a mechanic and took $170 off me for a complete check up and all he told me was he dosent want to work on the car and that their might be a oil leak.

Other then that no error codes nothing

[slippercream]

A couple of things to check - vacuum, compression, and as @adzski said, DTC codes. Though, if you don't have a Check Engine/SES light, then chances are, compression and OBD codes might not tell you what's going on.

On vacuum, it's a needle in the haystack kind of game. But you can always start by checking all your hoses to see if there are any noticeable gashes.
If your compression is off on any cylinder, that might be the reason why your engine is struggling to keep idle. What happens when you try to supplement a cold start with more fuel? Does it stay on, or does it still insist on dying?

[slippercream]

Have you checked error codes?

... their might be a oil leak.

Other then that no error codes nothing

Uhm... lol. An oil leak won't cause bad idle. But... mmmkay
Older Mitsubishi V6s are solid engines. I've had the unfortunate experience of running an engine with hardly any oil once - as I didn't realize that I had a major oil leak in my oil return from a bad turbo setup once. Still ran! I just wondered why I the temp needle was shooting up so erratically.

But, point is, an oil leak won't be the cause of your problems

[Rustin]

A couple of things to check - vacuum, compression, and as @adzski said, DTC codes. Though, if you don't have a Check Engine/SES light, then chances are, compression and OBD codes might not tell you what's going on.

On vacuum, it's a needle in the haystack kind of game. But you can always start by checking all your hoses to see if there are any noticeable gashes.
If your compression is off on any cylinder, that might be the reason why your engine is struggling to keep idle. What happens when you try to supplement a cold start with more fuel? Does it stay on, or does it still insist on dying?

So on cold start when i give the engine more fuel it stays on as long as i’m holding the accelerator... if i let go fast it may or may not die from bad idling... if i slowly let go the idle will come down and rest at 100-200 rpm struggling to stay on

[Rustin]

Have you checked error codes?

... their might be a oil leak.

Other then that no error codes nothing

Uhm... lol. An oil leak won't cause bad idle. But... mmmkay
Older Mitsubishi V6s are solid engines. I've had the unfortunate experience of running an engine with hardly any oil once - as I didn't realize that I had a major oil leak in my oil return from a bad turbo setup once. Still ran! I just wondered why I the temp needle was shooting up so erratically.

But, point is, an oil leak won't be the cause of your problems

My FTO is such an amazing car and i just want a first car to be anle to drive normally as the first car i bought ended up being p plate illegal (forgot to research), my second car the engine blew up after 1 month and now i’ve got a fucked FTO so it’s just really annoying i REALLY want to repair this Japanese beauty of a car

[slippercream]

I gotcha man - I'm with you. And I respect that you're doing this as a labor of love. I'm in the same general boat as you
I do hope you find the culprit. Often with things like this it's an easy fix.

[getonit]

OBD2 is not supported on FTO. Refer to the thread on how to check engine codes.
My dartboard says map sensor or throttle position sensor.

[mezje]

Have you checked error codes?

I didn’t have a OBD2 reader to scan the codes so i took the car to a mechanic and took $170 off me for a complete check up and all he told me was he dosent want to work on the car and that their might be a oil leak.

Other then that no error codes nothing

Never take it to this place again lol. Can't believe you paid that.

[adzski]

You can check codes without scanner, from memory you pin a wire on the plug. There is a thread on here somewhere that will show you how to do it.

Light will flash on the dash and u need to count/note how many times it flashes. This number will correlate to a code.

If you wanna test for a vac leak, take the vac line off the brake booster and breathe into the line with smoke from either a cigarette, cigar, vape etc. This helped me find a leaks on different cars