FTO AUSTRALIA

Just finished getting my alternator out, finally. Looking back it was quite simple.

Jack car up safely etc.

Remove alternator belt by loosening the tensioner pulley. Then undo the three (I think) bolts holding the alternator in place.

Undo the four bolts securing the two pipes going to the front and rear exhaust manifold. (you may need to borrow a stronger friend for this.)

Release the two rubber supports just near the car and support the exhaust from dropping to far and breaking anything etc. I used an aerosol can hehe.

Now the tricky bit undo the heat shield covering the rear manifold held on by three bolts.

Now undo the seven bolts holding the manifold and be careful not to drop it on your head.

Now that's all out the way the alternator will come out with some manipulation.

Installation is reverse of the removal procedure. Hopefuly

Congratulations on I think being the first person to describe removing the alternator by dropping the exhaust. In theory it is the least invasive method of removing the alternator. It is difficult to get to the manifold at the rear of the engine and I would advise the use of a hex socket to remove the nuts on the manifold rather than the usual common ring type socket. As the hex socket has six sides just like a nut it gives a much better grip on the nut and is less likely to slip. Anyone doing the job should remember to get a small socket and ratchet to remove the alternator tension device as a spanner will not fit

Yes I did use six sided sockets, much better and a nice long extension bar and ball joint adapter to get to the hard to reach areas. Not looking forward to putting it all back on haha.

Good luck on putting it back together. Always takes longer putting it all back for some reason. Maybe some stainless steel nuts to go back on the manifold would be appreciated by the next owner and the use of a copper grease on the threads. I think the metal gaskets are re-useable with a bit of muffler jointing paste. Seems to be quite a common failure on the FTO. Could be a reason never to jump start the car with another battery. a lot of them develop the fault shortly after being shipped from Japan where they are jump started after landing. The two pin alternator is easy to recondition but the four pin one seems to be the most expensive and least reliable.

howed this turn out?

Turned out great it's still there and working haha. I think it was easier puting it all back on becuase I knew where all the bolts were etc.

so did you need zorst glue?

rmemeber blowing 500$ odd on the exa gettign this doen and that was a EASY one

Sorry for the slack response times, I've been away from my net for a week on and off. I just reused the gasket without a problem and didn't use anything else.

I just did mine today it took me 1hr 37mins to do it i didnt have to remove the exhaust or the suspension (which i was told by the supplier of the new alternator). All i had to do was undo the alternator, undo the bracket the alternato is attached to, undo the wires connecting the alternator and it was out. My car is a non mivec though maybe that made the difference?? ps i was charged $400 for a recondition 1 does that sound about rite or was i ripped off?

I paid $250 to recondition mine.

So i got ripped off ah well that sucks. That was from steve macs electrical in southport gold coast. i didnt really have the luxury of shopping round this time

I did mine the same but never had to remove the manifold. Here's how i done it.

Just finished getting my alternator out, finally. Looking back it was quite simple.

Before jackin up the car loosen the drivers side wheel nuts. Then proceed to jack up the car

Remove alternator belt by loosening the tensioner pulley. Then undo the 2 bolts holding the alternator in place.

Undo the four bolts securing the two pipes going to the front and rear exhaust manifold. (you may need to borrow a stronger friend for this.)

Now I placed a hydraulic jack with a flat board and carefully jacked up under the sump just raising it. I then undone the engine mount (eg one bolt and nut) then the two bolts and one nut securing it to the engine.

I then removed the wheel. Then undone the lower control arm ball joint, steering ball joint and stabliser arm bolt. Undone the cv joint nut. I then used a chisel and removed the cv from the gearbox.

Now jacking up the engine in able to give you enough room to pull the alternator out from under neath. Note don't jack to high as you can split or tear the to lower gear box mounts.

Installation is reverse of the removal procedure.

i didnt have to undo the engine mount, or any of these

Then undone the lower control arm ball joint, steering ball joint and stabliser arm bolt. Undone the cv joint nut. I then used a chisel and removed the cv from the gearbox.

I've always gone under the car to get to the alternator but it only took me 10 mins to remove my intake manifold the other day. I haven't tried it from above yet. Is it easy to get to from the top?

When I did mine I took it up the way.

I removed the intake plenum. Removed all the wee brackets behind it. Loosened the aircon hose that runs behind the block, then loosened the alternator. I took off the alternator bracket from the block then, with a bit of gentle manipulation, got the aircon hose under the alternator. Then the alternator just lifts past the block/head and out.

IIRC it took me about an hour and a half but it was the first time I had done any major work on the car so I was a bit cautious

Plus no need to play around with any major components.

Well here is my 2 cents worth.
Undo the alternator and it's mounting bracket.
Just push the bracket aside, no need to get it out.
Drop the driver-side half shaft. I don't bother about undoing the control arm ball joint i just unbolt it from strut (2 bolts) i have my hub witness marked so it goes back in exactly the same.
And the alternator falls out.
Done.

Dave