FTO AUSTRALIA

FTODreams wrote:Nice job Mr Pres! Would you by chance have the part number for the other sides bracket as well? I'm having a terrible time getting it off my Mitsubishi ASA.

The other side on has gone end of life as well

The one you see pictured in my car is actually the driver side one, but I was able to drill another mounting hole through the top plate to make it into a passenger side.

So the lower swaybar bolt hole on your left and right brackets are the same height? The hole on the left bracket is meant to be higher than the hole on the right bracket. The picture will make more sense.

Hey guys,
I'm going to be taking out my springs so I can simulate suspension travel on my car to calculate the offset wheels I want/need + to check over the suspension.

My car has superpro bushes all round. How much resistance would be acceptable?


Also with the rear dogbones I notice the part that has the 2 bolts does not move easily in the direction of the suspension travel.
If a car is lowered (and say these bushes/spherical balls are swapped out) would there be a benefit to them being installed on a different angle that is more representative of the car's lowered ride height?

Are you competing in the formula one?

Sahin wrote:Are you competing in the formula one?

Yeah I'm entering an FTO into the 2017 Melbourne Grand Prix.
I'm hoping to come in first place.
Please come support me, you can buy tickets from:
http://www.grandprix.com.au/tickets/search

spetz wrote:

Sahin wrote:Are you competing in the formula one?

Yeah I'm entering an FTO into the 2017 Melbourne Grand Prix.
I'm hoping to come in first place.
Please come support me, you can buy tickets from:
http://www.grandprix.com.au/tickets/search

Never change, spetz.

I don't know if you'll get first. Will be pretty close.

Second place for sure though.

Well I know the competition is tough this year and if I'm serious about winning then I really need to consider things like arm angle adjustments on a lowered FTO. I feel this will really give me the edge needed to make it to the 1st place podium stand.

Also once I beat all the F1 cars with an FTO then these things will skyrocket in value so you are welcome FTO owners

spetz wrote:Hey guys,
I'm going to be taking out my springs so I can simulate suspension travel on my car to calculate the offset wheels I want/need + to check over the suspension.

My car has superpro bushes all round. How much resistance would be acceptable?


Also with the rear dogbones I notice the part that has the 2 bolts does not move easily in the direction of the suspension travel.
If a car is lowered (and say these bushes/spherical balls are swapped out) would there be a benefit to them being installed on a different angle that is more representative of the car's lowered ride height?

If you've got superpro bushes all round then there shouldn't be too much resistance (assuming they're still properly greased depending on how long they've been installed).

As for the dog-bones, I wouldn't worry about installing them at a different angle to OEM. Realistically the car still has the same amount of up- and down-travel as OEM if you're using shocks and springs to lower the ride height. If you're using coilovers, then you lose some of the wheel travel so theres less effect on the bush when torqued up at full droop.

Basically, don't stress about it not being "perfect". If you want to, then by all means, but you're not going to lose or gain anything from it.

Hey guys,

Does anyone know whether the LCA ball joint rubbers can be replaced?

I accidentally ripped one of them when removing the hub carrier and would rather not replace the whole ball joint.

EDIT:
Since the boot itself can be bought separately:
https://www.amayama.com/en/search?q=MB176047

I just need to know whether this can be replaced without removing the ball joint from the LCA?

Hey guys -

Sorry to resurrect a long-dead thread. Figured I'd just ask here.

Is there a reason why the passenger front wheel might have unusually more negative camber than the driver side wheel? Could it be a bad joint, bushing perhaps? Anyone have a similar experience?

I noticed this right after installing coilovers --- nothing else. Stock everything else, with both top-mount camber plates at the same "0" setting". Then I noticed that while the driver side tire had about 4-5mm of clearance from the spring/shock body, the passenger side had 100% contact!!!

I didn't hear any clunking noises, and so now I'm wondering if it's the inner LCA bushings that maybe gave out. Always hard seeing if that's a problem without taking the whole arm off. (And, not something I really wanted to do).

Some snips. Contact on the Passenger side picture is a little hard to discern, but on the front driver side, it's pretty clear.

Front RH clearance:
Front LH clearance:
I had to buy camber bolts... which I installed ONLY on the LH side and not the right --- just so I could move the damn car. Very strange.
With camber bolts installed on just one side and not the other, both sides now look more even from a camber perspective. Which worries me.

Good to see you posting 'Down under' - Hope the COTY is still running good. All the best.

Thanks Bob

Yeah, still good. Been putting on incremental miles again as it's Springtime around here - best time to get pollen stuck in between the air filters
Really, been hard to not drive this thing. So much fun. Have to send her back to the offsite garage just so I don't add more to the ticker.

But, I just realized I never reported back on this old thread. No idea what happened and why I had that strange rubbing issue, just on the passenger side and not driver. I ended up putting camber bolts on both sides, just to be even. Strangest thing. Fixed the issue either way.

I've just never had to put camber adjustment before on top and bottom. Kinda ridiculous.
I mean, top mount studs had to be torqued down all the way to the most negative setting so... kinda pointless to call them "camber adjustment plates".

Your biggest mistake was fitting coilovers before addressing all the bushes etc.
May want to look at the rust i circled in your pic too.
I would never buy an FTO from the UK.

Why are you running camber bolts and coilovers...

You should be able to get more camber than you ever need out of a decent coilover.

Camber adjustment aint gonna fix a poor rim offset choice

Just... wow.

Forget I even asked. For a topic that wasn't answered enough in a timely fashion... don't worry about it.
Nice community.

Whack up, ya big poof.

Ha ha ha ha ha , comedy at its finest!
Never fail to get a laugh on here!!