FTO AUSTRALIA

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DIY GUIDE: Installing your Oil filter Adapter and Oil Gauge

Trust me, ive done this, learnt heaps that will save you hours! So follow it… but not religiously
Its best to time this with an oil change and/or filter change makes it wayyyy easier.
It’s also recommended that you have some electrical knowledge before attempting this

You will need:
Wire
1 Phillips or posidrive screwdriver
1 small flathead screw driver
1 soldering iron and solder
1 Inch long socket or spanner (socket is best)
Thread tape
Silicone (or hot glue)

Method:
1:The easiest way to do this is to put the adapter on first, but first, you will need to run a wire through the firewall to the gauge’s sender that should be screwed into any of the sender holes you choose, give yourself some length, you can always chop it back later.
The easiest way to get through the firewall is this small hole marked above where the steering column goes through the firewall here.


2: Okay, now to the fiddly bit.
Run the wire tightly through the bottom of the engine alongside the oil sump. I siliconed it onto the sump to stop the wire flapping around while driving. Now, use some thread tape onto the thread of the sender (u might wanna tape the other 2 plugs on the adapter) and screw the sender into the adapter and solder the wire onto it, again, I used silicone to waterproof and hold the soldered sender on, I then siliconed around the nut onto the adapter here(on the car).


3: Now take the current oil filter off the engine and either biff it or clean it up to be reused, make sure the gasket has been taken off too! The easiest way to get the damn adapter and filter onto the engine is as 1 unit, it’s a bit of a tight squeeze so best bend the filter drain channel out of the way to make it easier to manoeuvre… but we’ll get to tat later.
Use the bronze bit and put the outer thread side on the opposite side to the o-ring on the adapter (make sure u don’t loose this o-ring!) screw the filter onto the thread and manoeuvre the piece into place, now screw the filter onto the engines thread through the adapter, this is the easiest way to line the bloody thing up, once again make sure the o-ring is there!
Take the filter off the adapter and tighten the thread to the engine with the 1 Inch socket or spanner… spanner is bloody hard as there is little room to move… maybe 1/8th of a turn each turn but if u have a long 1 inch socket on the end of a ratchet it’s a piece of cake!
Put the filter back on, tighten to hand strength…. DONE! Ready to wire up now!
RIIIIIIIIIIIGHT!
My chosen gauge is a GreddyX Oil pressure gauge with 7 colours LED

1: First, I chose to mount the gauge to the right of the top of the display shell…take the black display console off with these 2 simple screws,

take the aerial and fog light switches off (if u have them) and set the surround aside, now to make things easier take the display out by removing 4 screws here and pull it out, I used a small Phillip head screw driver to make a hole in the shell I thread the wire through as it’s a bit difficult to get a drill in that tight space, thread the gauge wires through.

2: My gauge has wires as so:
RED: ACC ON
BLACK: GROUND (earth)
WHITE: NIGHT LAMP (headlights)
ORANGE: BATTERY
But ill make it easy and just refer to them by name not colour as it prob differs from gauge to gauge

Remove the steering colomn plastic surround by unscrewing the 3 screws from the bottom and pulling apart, they are held on by clips so don’t be scare to pull
Wire and solder the headlight wire onto this yellow wire here.

Now reassemble the column

3: I chose to run the rest of the wires from the behind the stereo as with only 4 wires its easy as to wire and there’s lots of room
Disassemble this by doing the following, use the small flathead to remove the rubber gear shift surround and the plastic stereo/cigg lighter/ashtray surround… some bastard made this easy for me by snapping it into 3 pieces when they stole the original stereo… nice people they are!
Remove the stereo and brackets by either the 2 or 4 screws holding it on here.

Locate the 4 wires here,


The wires are as follows:
BLACK: GROUND
RED: ACC
ORANGE: BATTERY
BLUE: errrrrrrrrrr ummmmm…. I can’t remember… but it’s not used here so forget about it!

Wire and solder the other 3 wires and your good to go!
Test it first by turning the ignition on and you should get a reading… if this doesn’t happen, retrace the wiring and make sure it’s grounded (you’ll know if it’s grounded if your stereo works)
It should read about 5kg/2cm at idle and change constantly as you drive of hit the throttle




Reassemble the stereo and surround and Display console
If you’ve got a pod, great! Mount the gauge that way, but if u doesn’t, again I used silicone to stick it to the console surround.

YOU’RE GOOD TO GO AND IT SHOULD LOOK SOMETHING LIKE THIS:
HOORAY! Everything looks great and u have a cool bling gauge!


This DIY was made exclusively for the use of The FTO Club of Australia.
Please ask permission from myself or a Moderator to use it anywhere else… or I shoots you! SchumieFan 2005

Nice DIY Shumie

well done!

simon

BTW Schumie
Blue wire is battery + (constantly live & connected)
Red wire is also + (but ignition operated only)

Blue wire is used for your sterio to keep its presets & time whilst the car is off.

Nice install,
i also put an oil pressure gauge in, but in place of the original clock. The voltmeter was also changed to a matching autometer carbon fiber gauge which comes up quite nice. I had auto bahn install it originally, but because of there bad install i pulled it apart and did a proper job my self. Instead of a sandwich plate inbetween the oilfilter we just used an auto meter elctronic sender into the side of the block (will submit photo's if required). This was the only part of the job auto bahn did well. But their idea of mounting the gauges was 2 massive wads of hot glue, which eventually melted moving the gauges(very ugly). So my solution was to make up a set of brackets which used the original screw holes from the original gauges. All i needed was 4 strips of light guage sheet metal (easy enough to bend with 2 pliers), some snips and a cordless drill. I used a small amount of super glue to hold the gauges into there initial placement but with the bracket screwed in tight behind that these babies are going nowhere and looking very neat too.

lanyon wrote:Nice install,
i also put an oil pressure gauge in, but in place of the original clock. The voltmeter was also changed to a matching autometer carbon fiber gauge which comes up quite nice. I had auto bahn install it originally, but because of there bad install i pulled it apart and did a proper job my self. Instead of a sandwich plate inbetween the oilfilter we just used an auto meter elctronic sender into the side of the block (will submit photo's if required). This was the only part of the job auto bahn did well. But their idea of mounting the gauges was 2 massive wads of hot glue, which eventually melted moving the gauges(very ugly). So my solution was to make up a set of brackets which used the original screw holes from the original gauges. All i needed was 4 strips of light guage sheet metal (easy enough to bend with 2 pliers), some snips and a cordless drill. I used a small amount of super glue to hold the gauges into there initial placement but with the bracket screwed in tight behind that these babies are going nowhere and looking very neat too.

Be keen to see a shot of where on the block you ran the sender from Lanyon

hope these pics work. You can see the sender and the postioning of them if they work. im positive a thread adaptor was used in the install too.






if these dont work ill pm them to u[/img]

Can I recommend you use a rubber grommet on the hole where the wire goes through the baulkhead to protect it from chaffing? I know the worst that will happen here is that the guage will stop working, but it's always good practice to protect your wiring.

speaking of oil gauges, im planning on putting both oil temp & pressure gauges to replace the useless analog clock & volt meter, but id prefer having a volt meter so if theres a gauge that shows both oil press & temp to replace just the clock, but thats not the issue, sorry haha, what i want to know is what size gauge do i need to fit it in the dial hood housing the clock ?

Im pretty its 52mm, ill check when i get home mate

shweet. thanks.

yip I got em both in temp and pressure

easy to install and they are 52mm gauges