Painting your Brake Calipers?
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- MattG
- Grease Monkey
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- jedwabna poszewka promocja
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Somebody on the list has already done this.
I think he recommended getting a write brush and roughing the surface up a little bit before putting the heat resistant paint on.
Jack up one wheel at a at time and letting the paint dry is one way. But depending on your resources, jacking two wheels, or even having the whole car lifted off the ground (like in a workshop or something) would be much quicker.
M@
I think he recommended getting a write brush and roughing the surface up a little bit before putting the heat resistant paint on.
Jack up one wheel at a at time and letting the paint dry is one way. But depending on your resources, jacking two wheels, or even having the whole car lifted off the ground (like in a workshop or something) would be much quicker.
M@
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- Theremin
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I recently did this, and it is a BIG JOB! Here's what I did...
1. Jack up the car and remove the wheel. Seeing as your car will be up for a fair while with you half under it, put a car stand under it in case the jack fails (about $30 at Supercheap Auto will get you some light ones which are fine for an FTO).
2. Clean the calliper. Wire brush it then wipe down with thinners or metho. The wire bush is not to roughen-up the surface, but rather to get rid of any rust, dirt etc. The surface should be plenty rough enough already. When you think you've cleaned it enough, clean it again. You only get one shot at this and the paint won't stick if it's not clean.
3. At this stage you can either unfasten the calliper (and remove the pads) or leave it attached. I found it a lot easier to paint the calliper with it undone from the disc and pads removed, but I only did this with the front because I couldn't be bothered messing with the handbrake cable at the back.
4. Apply a metal primer. I got one from Supercheap which was about $10 for a small tin. I couldn't find any heat-proof primers so I just used a normal one. This went on with a small brush.
5. Get out the masking tape (assuming you are using a spray-on heat resistant top finish). This is the part that takes friggen ages. Mask up all the little bits that you don't want painted. Use newspaper to mask up the guard and nearby panels.
6. Spray on the paint. Follow the instructions on the can (I did 3 light coats with a 15 min break between coats). Clean the inside of your wheel while it's off and you're waiting for the paint to dry.
7. Put wheel back on and lower car.
8. Repeat for 3 other callipers!!
Like I said, it took ages to do all 4 callipers (probably 6-8 hours all up).
Having two or more jacks will speed things up a bit, but it is the cleaning and masking that took the most time. Using a bush rather than spray can would also make things quicker, but I could only find the heat resistant stuff in a can, and I think you will probably get a better finish from a can anyway.
I've done a few mountain runs in warm weather, got the brakes nice and hot, and the callipers looks the same as the day I painted them (except for a bit of brake dust..)
I have a pic of the finished result if you want me to email it, or if someone can host it I'll post a URL..
cam.
1. Jack up the car and remove the wheel. Seeing as your car will be up for a fair while with you half under it, put a car stand under it in case the jack fails (about $30 at Supercheap Auto will get you some light ones which are fine for an FTO).
2. Clean the calliper. Wire brush it then wipe down with thinners or metho. The wire bush is not to roughen-up the surface, but rather to get rid of any rust, dirt etc. The surface should be plenty rough enough already. When you think you've cleaned it enough, clean it again. You only get one shot at this and the paint won't stick if it's not clean.
3. At this stage you can either unfasten the calliper (and remove the pads) or leave it attached. I found it a lot easier to paint the calliper with it undone from the disc and pads removed, but I only did this with the front because I couldn't be bothered messing with the handbrake cable at the back.
4. Apply a metal primer. I got one from Supercheap which was about $10 for a small tin. I couldn't find any heat-proof primers so I just used a normal one. This went on with a small brush.
5. Get out the masking tape (assuming you are using a spray-on heat resistant top finish). This is the part that takes friggen ages. Mask up all the little bits that you don't want painted. Use newspaper to mask up the guard and nearby panels.
6. Spray on the paint. Follow the instructions on the can (I did 3 light coats with a 15 min break between coats). Clean the inside of your wheel while it's off and you're waiting for the paint to dry.
7. Put wheel back on and lower car.
8. Repeat for 3 other callipers!!
Like I said, it took ages to do all 4 callipers (probably 6-8 hours all up).
Having two or more jacks will speed things up a bit, but it is the cleaning and masking that took the most time. Using a bush rather than spray can would also make things quicker, but I could only find the heat resistant stuff in a can, and I think you will probably get a better finish from a can anyway.
I've done a few mountain runs in warm weather, got the brakes nice and hot, and the callipers looks the same as the day I painted them (except for a bit of brake dust..)
I have a pic of the finished result if you want me to email it, or if someone can host it I'll post a URL..
cam.
- Theremin
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The spray can said to use a primer, so I did. I'm not sure if you can remove the pads without undoing the callipers? There's a couple of bolts that you undo and then you can slide the calliper off the brake rotor and sit it on top of the thing that the wheel bolts onto (the calliper will still be attached by the brake hose, but it's a lot easier to get at). With the calliper off, the brake rotor should slide off, so get that out of the way, and the pads are just held in with clips. Yep, mine look much like those in the pic except I used silver paint.
- Theremin
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