Air Filter Questions
Moderators: IMC, Club Staff
-
- Oldtimer
- Posts: 1845
- jedwabna poszewka promocja
- Joined: Tue Oct 14, 2003 5:00 pm
- Location: Melbourne
As the outlet of the pod is solid plastic, it fits inside the rubber hose, not the other way round.
9.5cm = 3.7" therefore you would use a filter with a 3.5" outlet. Obviously the outlet on the filter needs to be slightly smaller than the diameter of the rubber hosing, else if it is the same or larger it won't fit!
Once you have inserted the solid plastic outlet of the pod filter into the rubber hosing, you then tighten the round clamp that is around the rubber hosing, to make sure everything is nice and tight and stays in place.
Alternatively, if it is too hard to find a pod filter with a 3.5" outlet, just get one with a 3" outlet and use an adapter, as described in a previous post.
9.5cm = 3.7" therefore you would use a filter with a 3.5" outlet. Obviously the outlet on the filter needs to be slightly smaller than the diameter of the rubber hosing, else if it is the same or larger it won't fit!
Once you have inserted the solid plastic outlet of the pod filter into the rubber hosing, you then tighten the round clamp that is around the rubber hosing, to make sure everything is nice and tight and stays in place.
Alternatively, if it is too hard to find a pod filter with a 3.5" outlet, just get one with a 3" outlet and use an adapter, as described in a previous post.
-
- Oldtimer
- Posts: 1845
- Joined: Tue Oct 14, 2003 5:00 pm
- Location: Melbourne
The piping from the bottom half of the airbox, that goes to the front of the car, does not force air into the airbox, rather it relies on a closed airbox, and suction from the engine to bring the cold air in.TimmyD wrote:I removed the top half of the airfilter box and left the bottom half in.
It stops the pod from bouncing around and sits in tit nicely, also acts as pipe so the air goes straight to the pod.Tim
With the airbox open, there is not enough suction pressure within the bottome half of the airbox to suck the air in via the piping. On top of this, you are also blocking air that could be coming in from underneath the car, which is colder, from being used.
It would be better to remove the bottom half of the air filter box.
It would be even better to remove it and also change the piping that came out of it, to hosing that runs to the front bumper and has cold air forced into it.
Even better would be to do all this and then add a heatshield to block the hot air from the engine / radiator.
that's logical... and how I imagined it would be... but you would be surprised... I called two separate Autobarn outlets and they gave me the same answer.. that I need a pod that is 4" so that the original piping goes inside it???
I tried to explain what exactly you have said and they still claim that the tube goes inside the pod?!?!?!
what about the rest of you that has installed the pod yourself or came installed... is the original piping inside or outside the pod?
timmy, how long was your PVC??
I tried to explain what exactly you have said and they still claim that the tube goes inside the pod?!?!?!
what about the rest of you that has installed the pod yourself or came installed... is the original piping inside or outside the pod?
timmy, how long was your PVC??
-
- Mechanic
- Posts: 510
- Joined: Sat Oct 11, 2003 5:00 pm
- Location: Melbourne
- Contact:
well the way i have it you cant tell i have PVC there, unless u look really close. I also have the pvc INSIDE the tube with the clamp firmly placed on the outside of the rubber hosing.
The pvc ive got it about 4/5cm's long (estimate) its not very long at all.
Now about the heatshield... if i put one on, will it improve performance at all?
Tim
The pvc ive got it about 4/5cm's long (estimate) its not very long at all.
Now about the heatshield... if i put one on, will it improve performance at all?
Tim
- smorison
- The Godfather
- Posts: 2461
- Joined: Sun Aug 04, 2002 5:00 pm
- Location: In the TRUCK!!!
- Contact:
my current design (check pictures in the gallery) has a heat shield and a snorkle that goes down below the car this helps push *cold* air into the pod.
Our new design which will be available soon includes a redesigned intake pipe (rubber same as existing one) a bracket to secure the pod to and simota pod pricing will be between 200-225 for all this including the pot. we will also have a heat shield with snorkle to go with it, pricing is TBC but probably around 60-80 for it.
for those that have stock airboxes in place or a pod i would recommend waiting for this to be made available the prototype shows great results on the dyno and a final product is only a month away.
why simota? well they are as good (or better depending on who you ask) as the K&N and a fraction of the cost - you are not paying for the brand name.
Our new design which will be available soon includes a redesigned intake pipe (rubber same as existing one) a bracket to secure the pod to and simota pod pricing will be between 200-225 for all this including the pot. we will also have a heat shield with snorkle to go with it, pricing is TBC but probably around 60-80 for it.
for those that have stock airboxes in place or a pod i would recommend waiting for this to be made available the prototype shows great results on the dyno and a final product is only a month away.
why simota? well they are as good (or better depending on who you ask) as the K&N and a fraction of the cost - you are not paying for the brand name.
-
- Oldtimer
- Posts: 1845
- Joined: Tue Oct 14, 2003 5:00 pm
- Location: Melbourne
On the air filter pods that have a 3" or a 3.5" outlet, the outlet is a solid plastic, and therefore cannot be tightened.
It is possible on the 4" pods, that it has a rubber outlet that can be tightened. This is a guess, based on what you are being told by Autobarn, so you may want to double check.
However, tightening rubber on to rubber is not a good idea, as both with give, and you will not get a tight connection.
One end NEEDS to be solid, and as the intake from the engine is a rubber hose, the pod is the bit that needs to have the solid plastic outlet on it, and obviously this needs to be smaller than the opening of the rubber hosing. Therefore either a 3.5" plastic outlet on the pod, or a 3" outlet with a 3" to 3.5" convertor. The outlet then goes INSIDE the rubber hosing, and the clamp around the hosing tightened.
It is possible on the 4" pods, that it has a rubber outlet that can be tightened. This is a guess, based on what you are being told by Autobarn, so you may want to double check.
However, tightening rubber on to rubber is not a good idea, as both with give, and you will not get a tight connection.
One end NEEDS to be solid, and as the intake from the engine is a rubber hose, the pod is the bit that needs to have the solid plastic outlet on it, and obviously this needs to be smaller than the opening of the rubber hosing. Therefore either a 3.5" plastic outlet on the pod, or a 3" outlet with a 3" to 3.5" convertor. The outlet then goes INSIDE the rubber hosing, and the clamp around the hosing tightened.
finally found the PVC with 90mm on one end and 75mm on the other... I had to go to 3 diff bunnings as the others was out of stock
thanks for the tip
anyways, the 75mm fitted well.. as when I was putting it on the pod.. the rubber end of the pod had to strech abit so I can fit the PVC... after putting the clamp on.. I'm sure that it's tight... however.... the 90mm end seems to fit really easy to the original pipings (as the piping has an opening of approx 95mm)... I tightened it with the clamp... and it seemed airtight... however the only reason I stopped tightening it was becoz it was up to the end of the bracket... not because it was really tight....
it looks pretty sealed though... i may just be paranoid!
timmy, you sure your's is really tight??? any ideas on how i can check if the seal is not fully tight....
took it for a quicky... and man... I don't know if its my mind playing games with me coz it knows it has a pod filter... but it seemed to react much much quicker... and the mivec sounds REALLY MANLY now... before it just used to whistle
do you all agree that the bottom part of the pod should be taken out??
thanks for the tip
anyways, the 75mm fitted well.. as when I was putting it on the pod.. the rubber end of the pod had to strech abit so I can fit the PVC... after putting the clamp on.. I'm sure that it's tight... however.... the 90mm end seems to fit really easy to the original pipings (as the piping has an opening of approx 95mm)... I tightened it with the clamp... and it seemed airtight... however the only reason I stopped tightening it was becoz it was up to the end of the bracket... not because it was really tight....
it looks pretty sealed though... i may just be paranoid!
timmy, you sure your's is really tight??? any ideas on how i can check if the seal is not fully tight....
took it for a quicky... and man... I don't know if its my mind playing games with me coz it knows it has a pod filter... but it seemed to react much much quicker... and the mivec sounds REALLY MANLY now... before it just used to whistle
do you all agree that the bottom part of the pod should be taken out??
-
- Grease Monkey
- Posts: 145
- Joined: Tue Sep 02, 2003 5:00 pm
- Location: Sydney
- Contact:
-
- Oldtimer
- Posts: 1845
- Joined: Tue Oct 14, 2003 5:00 pm
- Location: Melbourne
I have seen the heat shield, at Autobarn, that you are referring to. It is just slightly larger than the pod, has a curve to it, and clips on around the pod.
In the case of the FTO, I do not believe this heat shield is of much use.
From it's design and small size, it would really only block radiant heat from the engine or radiator, and not very effectively. Because the air filter sits in the front corner of the engine bay, it doesn't seem to be effected greatly by "radiant" heat from the engine and radiator, but rather the big issue is the "ambient" heat of the air within the engine bay.
To be effective, the heat shield would need to keep the warm air away (e.g. creating a division between the warm air from the radiator fans and the air filter) while allowing a source of cool air (ducting from the front) to reach the air filter, while minimising the mixing of this warm and cool air.
In the case of the FTO, I do not believe this heat shield is of much use.
From it's design and small size, it would really only block radiant heat from the engine or radiator, and not very effectively. Because the air filter sits in the front corner of the engine bay, it doesn't seem to be effected greatly by "radiant" heat from the engine and radiator, but rather the big issue is the "ambient" heat of the air within the engine bay.
To be effective, the heat shield would need to keep the warm air away (e.g. creating a division between the warm air from the radiator fans and the air filter) while allowing a source of cool air (ducting from the front) to reach the air filter, while minimising the mixing of this warm and cool air.
- lal
- Grease Monkey
- Posts: 190
- Joined: Thu Sep 25, 2003 5:00 pm
- Location: Sydney
-
- Mechanic
- Posts: 589
- Joined: Sat Sep 14, 2002 5:00 pm
- Location: Sydney
- Contact:
It's mainly for performance. It has been dyno-proven that having an open pod (to hot air and all) has shown increase in top end power over the stock air box.lal wrote:question for you guys, what happens to the engine/car when the hot engine air is being sucked by the pod filter? is this bad for the engine life, or just the performance... is sucking hot air with the pod better than the stock air box?
-
- Mechanic
- Posts: 407
- Joined: Tue Jul 29, 2003 5:00 pm
- Location: I Represent the Northside!!
- Contact:
I have the same problem with my car. If I disconnect the MAS sensor, my car will not start. How do I change the Piping and filter when I have this sensor. It is not a simple thing of getting rid of it, because the car wont start without it.Hey guys, I’m not to familiar with car mechanics so please bare with me. Do any of you guys have FTO GR's and have pod filters on them? If so what do you do with the sensor? If any one could help me or if anyone has pictures that would be great.
Thanks
- smorison
- The Godfather
- Posts: 2461
- Joined: Sun Aug 04, 2002 5:00 pm
- Location: In the TRUCK!!!
- Contact:
-
- Grease Monkey
- Posts: 145
- Joined: Tue Sep 02, 2003 5:00 pm
- Location: Sydney
- Contact:
- rxboy
- Mechanic
- Posts: 748
- Joined: Thu Feb 27, 2003 6:00 pm
- Location: SE Melbourne
- Contact:
A couple of questions about this Unique CAI kit Stephen:smorison wrote:i'll try and get an ETA on the piping in the next couple of days. i know we're getting 20 made up to start off with in blue / red / black (they are not stainless only the prototype was).
1) is the Simota pod going to be enclosed by an airbox? If not, I believe we can get defected on it, or worse still, insurance may refuse to pay up in the event of an accident
2) I've heard that the Simota pod delivers good power increases for its cost - but how well does it actually filter the air?
- smorison
- The Godfather
- Posts: 2461
- Joined: Sun Aug 04, 2002 5:00 pm
- Location: In the TRUCK!!!
- Contact:
simota is comparable with K&N they are effectively the same you are simply not paying for the K&N brand.
yes you can be defected for them, we are working on a carbon fibre surround (airbox basically) that will get rid of this problem. I've been pulled over countless times by the police and never once have i received a defect notice.
i recommend not throwing away your stock airbox in the unlikely event that you do get a defect notice from the police.
on the insurance side i don't know about that most "performance car insurance" companies these days let you freely declare that you have a pod and that makes it fine. some HSV models actually come standard these days with K&N POD filters so i'd like to see what the relevance is. but check with your insurance company, if they are that inflexible about a pod you are probably paying way too much for your insurance (i.e. NRMA) and should probably look for a different company.
hope this information helps
yes you can be defected for them, we are working on a carbon fibre surround (airbox basically) that will get rid of this problem. I've been pulled over countless times by the police and never once have i received a defect notice.
i recommend not throwing away your stock airbox in the unlikely event that you do get a defect notice from the police.
on the insurance side i don't know about that most "performance car insurance" companies these days let you freely declare that you have a pod and that makes it fine. some HSV models actually come standard these days with K&N POD filters so i'd like to see what the relevance is. but check with your insurance company, if they are that inflexible about a pod you are probably paying way too much for your insurance (i.e. NRMA) and should probably look for a different company.
hope this information helps
-
- Mechanic
- Posts: 499
- Joined: Thu Aug 28, 2003 5:00 pm
- Location: Sydney