As we know, the better the car can breathe, and the denser the air the engine receives, the more powerful / efficient the engine can be. However it seems to me that some of the options talked about in this forum could actually lead to a decrease in performance / efficiency. It would also appear that some of these changes would bring about different results in a static dyno test versus real driving situations.
The two biggest issues seem to be the ability for the car to suck the air in, and the temperature of it - both of which greatly affect the density of air reaching the combustion chamber.
In any static test, where the car is not moving, such as a dyno test, the air around the car is fairly still and therefore as the engine sucks it in, it pretty much gets what it needs. But in a real life situation, the faster you drive, the quicker the air is rushing past the air intake. If the air intake is pointing straight at the oncoming air flow, then the density of the air is increased as it is coming at a higher pressure. However, if the air intake is offset to the side, then the amount of force required to suck the same amount of air in would need to increase. As the suction from the engine remains the same, regardless of induction system used, this would mean that less air (lower density) is reaching the engine as you continue to increase speed.
Similarly, with the bonnet of the car closed, the heat builds up within the engine bay, meaning the air within the bay will be of a lower density. Yes, I have seen some of the heat shields, but these are only blocking direct heat from the radiator, and despite this the ambient heat of the air in the engine bay is greater than that of the external air.
Let me repeat again, that I am no expert, and what I am seeking here is information and help, not to be shot down in flames. But it would seem to me that the most logical way of increasing performance, via means of improving air flow, would be to have hosing, that pointed straight forward, coming from the front bumper of the car, and running to a high performance air filter that was enclosed, not open. By keeping the enclosure, it ensures that only the cold air from outside gets to it, while also increasing the pressure / density of that air further as it is prevented from escaping.
At the risk of being abused, it would appear that simply replacing your air box with a pod filter could lead to performance decreases in a real world scenario, as the air is either rushing past it or is warmer and therefore less dense. Yes, I understand that most pod filters claim kW improvements, but aren't they tested with a static dyno test, where the air is still?
If I am wrong, then please enlighten me, but if I am right, why is everyone removing their air box and adding pod filters? Wouldn?t keeping your air box (or getting a bigger one), along with changing the standard filter to a high performance one and re-directing the hosing to the front bumper be a better option? After all isn't it cold, pressurised, dense air that we are seeking?
P.S. sorry this message was so long
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does K&N pod filters come in 3.5" inlet so that it's just a straight swap?? or do I have to use the PVC??? if PVC... how did you make sure that the hose you added stayed tight?? did you wrap it with duct tape or something??
:D:D:D