The FTOA Oil Thread
Posted: Sun Sep 03, 2006 11:17 pm
My advice on Oil...I'm not a guru but this will help you decide, not on marketing and what some1 told you, but on facts.
1. POE Base (Ester) oils are the best avaliable. Motul 300V and Redline are the top brands commonly avaliable in Australia. This are quite expensive due to the cost of the ester is more than normal base stock. If you pay these dollars do 10,000 Oil Chnage Intervals (OCI)
Some oil i know that contain ester
Redline - mostly ester base
Motul 300V - mostly ester base
Fuchs silkorene - mostly ester
Delvac 1 - small percentage of ester
Magnatec - unknown percentage of ester (likely small amount)
Eg of your engine after a few chnages of Redline : http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ult ... 012378;p=0
2. Dropping the filter at 5k is a waste of time IMO. Unless you've got problems with your motor, it wouldnt even be 20% full of debris. Actually the longer you leave the filter on, its single pass efficiency increases (ie the better it actually filter out small particles) so I say, leave it on! I like this summary: "When time comes to change the oil at 3000-5000 miles they may just be getting in to their most effective part of their life cycle. Hence they never function optimally, or spent far less time in that range where small particle filtering is most effective."
3. Some filters are poor quality. Many threads about using Ryco ones with poor quality anti-drain back valves. Good filters use a silicone gasket (Eg Purolator PureOne) which lasts much longer. You can tell by if it has an orange valve at the bottom instead of black (ordinary nitrile rubber). Ryco ones are actually crap, however I have used them before. Its likely that the OEM Mitsi ones are silicone also from japan as my OEM Nissan was.
4. For an NA FTO its probably overkill using a POE base oil but at leats u know your getting the best product in your car. But if u chnage your oil every 5k like some ppls seem to do u may actually save money!
5. Fully Synthetic oils which should be POA base stocks are next in line if you cant get or afford a POE base. Examples are Mobil1, Mobil 1, RP or Castrol SLX.
6. There are many oils but you will find many are blends of lower grades. To keep it basic anything that is a group type I-III (like many on the market) are low quality. However uneless u do your research u wouldn't know. POAs are group IVs.
7. Many good oils have addatives packages. I know the Motul 300V has a really good package but I have never really researched it much. Redline is the same. It helps break down the sludge and crap and clean your engine when u chnage the oil and another reason to have 10k OICs
8. Important ratings to look for:
cSt @ 40C (cold) - Viscosity
cSt @ 100C (operating) - Viscosity
HTHS - measure of the "strength" of the oil or VII content.
As a reference
http://www.redlineoil.com/pdf/4.pdf
9. Thick or Thin? What weight for my FTO?
This is where most of the debate is. And thats why I left it to last. U can see there are many more important factors in oil selection than the weight.
Thinner oil will has less drag on the engine component during operation. It will actually increase hp and improve your FC with thinner oil but the cons are lower HTHS at 150'c. This is the oil thickness when the oil reach 150'c during load or stress. The best oil would be a thin 30wt oil with high HTHS. It will give you good hp and FC plus great protection during full throttle run. IMO Redline 5w30 with HTHS of 3.8 are make up of mostly polyolester (group V) base stock couple with killer additives are the best money can buy. The oil film strength at high temp are stronger than most 40wt fully synthetic oil in the market. FYI Mobil 1 fully synthetic 0w40 HTHS are only 3.6
In addition using the cSt ratings as a guide you will find 10W30 type oils have a much better viscosity at cold start - hence less engine wear. The difference between a 30 and a 40 at operating temp is not that great as a matter of fact but might be enough to fix tappet that is just out of adjustment. If u have noisy tappets - fix them properly don't use a thicker oil for all the reaosns stated above.
I use a Redline 10W30.
And this is only my opinion. Debate welcome and I'm sure some more info.
1. POE Base (Ester) oils are the best avaliable. Motul 300V and Redline are the top brands commonly avaliable in Australia. This are quite expensive due to the cost of the ester is more than normal base stock. If you pay these dollars do 10,000 Oil Chnage Intervals (OCI)
Some oil i know that contain ester
Redline - mostly ester base
Motul 300V - mostly ester base
Fuchs silkorene - mostly ester
Delvac 1 - small percentage of ester
Magnatec - unknown percentage of ester (likely small amount)
Eg of your engine after a few chnages of Redline : http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ult ... 012378;p=0
2. Dropping the filter at 5k is a waste of time IMO. Unless you've got problems with your motor, it wouldnt even be 20% full of debris. Actually the longer you leave the filter on, its single pass efficiency increases (ie the better it actually filter out small particles) so I say, leave it on! I like this summary: "When time comes to change the oil at 3000-5000 miles they may just be getting in to their most effective part of their life cycle. Hence they never function optimally, or spent far less time in that range where small particle filtering is most effective."
3. Some filters are poor quality. Many threads about using Ryco ones with poor quality anti-drain back valves. Good filters use a silicone gasket (Eg Purolator PureOne) which lasts much longer. You can tell by if it has an orange valve at the bottom instead of black (ordinary nitrile rubber). Ryco ones are actually crap, however I have used them before. Its likely that the OEM Mitsi ones are silicone also from japan as my OEM Nissan was.
4. For an NA FTO its probably overkill using a POE base oil but at leats u know your getting the best product in your car. But if u chnage your oil every 5k like some ppls seem to do u may actually save money!
5. Fully Synthetic oils which should be POA base stocks are next in line if you cant get or afford a POE base. Examples are Mobil1, Mobil 1, RP or Castrol SLX.
6. There are many oils but you will find many are blends of lower grades. To keep it basic anything that is a group type I-III (like many on the market) are low quality. However uneless u do your research u wouldn't know. POAs are group IVs.
7. Many good oils have addatives packages. I know the Motul 300V has a really good package but I have never really researched it much. Redline is the same. It helps break down the sludge and crap and clean your engine when u chnage the oil and another reason to have 10k OICs
8. Important ratings to look for:
cSt @ 40C (cold) - Viscosity
cSt @ 100C (operating) - Viscosity
HTHS - measure of the "strength" of the oil or VII content.
As a reference
http://www.redlineoil.com/pdf/4.pdf
9. Thick or Thin? What weight for my FTO?
This is where most of the debate is. And thats why I left it to last. U can see there are many more important factors in oil selection than the weight.
Thinner oil will has less drag on the engine component during operation. It will actually increase hp and improve your FC with thinner oil but the cons are lower HTHS at 150'c. This is the oil thickness when the oil reach 150'c during load or stress. The best oil would be a thin 30wt oil with high HTHS. It will give you good hp and FC plus great protection during full throttle run. IMO Redline 5w30 with HTHS of 3.8 are make up of mostly polyolester (group V) base stock couple with killer additives are the best money can buy. The oil film strength at high temp are stronger than most 40wt fully synthetic oil in the market. FYI Mobil 1 fully synthetic 0w40 HTHS are only 3.6
In addition using the cSt ratings as a guide you will find 10W30 type oils have a much better viscosity at cold start - hence less engine wear. The difference between a 30 and a 40 at operating temp is not that great as a matter of fact but might be enough to fix tappet that is just out of adjustment. If u have noisy tappets - fix them properly don't use a thicker oil for all the reaosns stated above.
I use a Redline 10W30.
And this is only my opinion. Debate welcome and I'm sure some more info.