FTO AUSTRALIA

So i'll be getting the rwc and registered then i'll look into getting the bar after that.

In the meantime I have discovered some small oil leaks after taking it for a quick drive around the block. Im the first to admit im the worst mechanic so can anyone help me diagnose it?

Well it seems as though your sump has had a mad wack (the giant dent)... And the oil is probably coming from the sump plug where's it's most likely split on impact..

dont think its coming from there anymore. I think its just behind there but coming from the engine? cant have a real good look because I cant drive it atm to see where it drips from :/


I found it had a flat battery today (possibly from an interior light) so I tried to jump it from my other car. when connected the power came back to the car so I thought I could start it up from there. when I turned the ignition all I got was a kind of "whirring" or spinning noise. it wasnt turning over.

So I figure its either the solenoid, starter motor or the flywheel possibly missing teeth. any ideas or common problems with the fto in this case?

the reason I say flywheel is because it stated fine until the battery died but maybe it was a coincidence that the flywheel happened to stop on a bad or missing tooth the last time I turned it off?

Did you try other jumper cables?
I've found FTOs seem to require much thicker cables than normal.
Sometimes you need to use 2 sets of smaller cables or one set of larger cables.

I was using 400amp surge protected ones, they seemed pretty sturdy. I couldnt rev the engine of the donor car as I tried to start it, but someone will be home soon so I can try that as well, is that likely to make a big difference?

might try the double cables trick as well!

Just leave them on for longer...

I left them for about 15 minutes before. ill go try again, wont hurt to try again haha

Connect the negative to the engine

destinationtoby wrote:Connect the negative to the engine

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
What this guy said. not trolling

anywhere in particular? or just wherever it can hold onto? is it some kind of cheat code? haha

Yeah that eliminates the voltage drop lol press a,b,x,a,b,a,rb1,rb2

ok update. I had a blown alternator fuse (not sure when it occurred) which I replaced. the electronics in the car are working normally again when I connect some jumper leads to charge it.

So now when I turn the ignition I get the nice sound of it turning over perfectly but it wont start.

Which leads to two things I believe? the fuel not going in correctly or the spark plugs.
I can hear the tick of the fuel pump when I turn the key so im pretty sure that only leaves the spark plugs.

Really hoping I dont have to replace them as they were replaced fairly recently by the previous owner.
any thoughts? am I right in saying its the plugs or is there something im overlooking?

Why did your alternator fuse blow? I'd start there

I wish I could tell you why.. I was very careful when jumping it yesterday so dont think that was it. however when the new fuse went in it didnt blow even when the power was turned on. So it seems like it was a one off thing rather then something constantly blowing it..

Could you video it at all, gives a better idea..

Is it manual?

mark12 wrote:So now when I turn the ignition I get the nice sound of it turning over perfectly but it wont start.

Not enough power for ignition.
Bad battery and/or bad jumper connections and/or bad earth/s and/or bad battery connections.

EDIT: bad/loose connection/s to Alt and/or starter.

i'll try to a video tomorrow

yea manual

Sahin would say next "clutch the bloody thing then "

PHIL069 wrote:

mark12 wrote:So now when I turn the ignition I get the nice sound of it turning over perfectly but it wont start.

Not enough power for ignition.
Bad battery and/or bad jumper connections and/or bad earth/s and/or bad battery connections.

the donor car has a pretty weak battery, should I try a newer car? the battery connections seem ok..