FTO AUSTRALIA

Just got a Varex.. want to get it installed but no exhaust shops want to help with the wiring.

I read this on some other forum (http://www.perth-wrx.com/vb/showthread. ... 796&page=6)

Don't run it under the body. Push the wires through the grommet for
your numberplate light or one of the other rubber grommets at the
back.

That way the wire is inside the cabin, then to behind the dash where
the varex control box sits, then wires from that go through firewall
to the battery (via the lighter for a relay to turn it power it all
when the accessories are on)

Cable tie the mufler end so it doesn't touch any of the zorst except for
where is actually connects.

I just want the simple cigarette lighter installation, any advice/tips how to run the cables from the rear of the car to the cabin?

go up via drain plug in spare wheel compartment its a metal disc may need to drill small hole for wires.

Then straight forward under carpet to dash are (where amp wiring runs if you have one or rear speakers wiring)

Ahh cheers mate that should be perfect.

The guy at my local exhaust shop was kind of hesitant to install one of these because they are illegal apparently (in VIC anyway). He said it would be off the books, cash only

If it's off the books it's better as you pay less

which varex did you get hugekim?


by the way, has anyone bought the rpw extractors ? its cheap as, 486$, but i was wondering about how much the postage would be to sydney.

I bought the same one as you, the cannon style one haha

here is where I got it from, $385 delivered:
http://purchasenet.com.au/shopping/xfor ... -1673.html

Went to my local exhaust place today and he said he couldn't fit it. The issue was that it was just too long and the metal bracket next to the right rear tyre was in the way. (I used your photos from this thread to illustrate what I mean)







I then went to another better exhaust shop and the guy said he's put heaps of them on before, but it'll have to sit on a bit of an angle to make it fit. I don't really mind but I'd prefer it to be straight. Did you have any issues getting it to fit Wayne? And is your wiring just through the plug in the spare tyre area?

It doesnt look like too big an issue to fit. By the looks of it it will just sit a little further out and at an angle. IMO thats hot

mine is straight and we just made the tip stick out a bit to fit and i like how much it sticks out.
wiring was included, they ran it through an existing hole somewhere above the muffler and all the way to inside the console, wires hidden, then hardwired to the cigarette lighter. my varex is a bit smaller though, its the cannon but with the 4" tip, not 4.5 as i thought the 4" was a lipped tip as advertised but to my surprise, the cannon that they had for me in the shop was single walled. oh well. but its all good, i like the tone now anyway

Holy Shiitake Mushrooms!!!!

I just scored myself a naked hurricane header set for $620 new!!

Will be picking them up very very soon. wYNNER!!

Now to buy a can of header paint, header silicone and the right gaskets..
Can someone help me out with the gaskets? No idea really about what to get.

Will need a hand installing these as i have never installed headers before. Will have a go with olly but if backup need arises, i will ask around.

Hell Yeah!!. Out

Well thank god for that..... After 11 pages, my head hurts

finally aye simon, my exhaust mods are complete.
Im actually thinking if you would actually buy me a new set if this one wears out while i own the car.

lol, it aint going to wear out.

have you installed extractors before?
What im doing with the ones im getting is to clean them up with meth spirits, then use some header paint, but with bolting them, i need to know what sealant to use with the gaskets and all. and if the O2 sensor is transferrable from the stock one y' pipe to the hurricane's. Im just paranoid coz when i had the cat replaced, i remember the specialist had to do a bit of grinding to the stock cat sensor to fit onto the new high flow cat.

No sealants required unless you bought a dodgy product.

O2 sensor will be fine. Cat temp sensor can be pissed off. Ie tied up & tucked away if there's no provision for it in the new cat.

Meh, I am a fan of exhaust cement. I know it is overkill when you have gaskets but I use it anyway. FOrce of habbit I suppose.

As for the cat temp sensor, if you dont install it though it will throw up a warning light on the dash. So either install it or remove dash and pull lamp out as well, as it is no longer needed.

Bennoz wrote:No sealants required unless you bought a dodgy product.

O2 sensor will be fine. Cat temp sensor can be pissed off. Ie tied up & tucked away if there's no provision for it in the new cat.

what ?! or maybe i should just use whatever was sitting in between the stock headers' flanges and the engine(block?) ? just for peace of mind... I heard that the use of silicone is not a totally good idea so im looking to see if someone knows something better. or just use my initial idea of what was in there already..

Its only throws the warning up if you unplug it. I just keep the whole assembly together & just tuck it away.

what about the stuff to use in between the header flanges and the exhaust exit ports?

Gholdwayne wrote:

Bennoz wrote:No sealants required unless you bought a dodgy product.

O2 sensor will be fine. Cat temp sensor can be pissed off. Ie tied up & tucked away if there's no provision for it in the new cat.

what ?! or maybe i should just use whatever was sitting in between the stock headers' flanges and the engine(block?) ? just for peace of mind... I heard that the use of silicone is not a totally good idea so im looking to see if someone knows something better. or just use my initial idea of what was in there already..

Something tells me you had a dodgy product

I've never used any sealants on the exhaust unless there's a join that you can't get air tight, ie where the cat meets the tail section or similar.
Its something (airtight-ness if thats a word lol) you should check after swapping out any exhaust bits.

If I do have to use a sealant, I use Permatex High-Temp red RTV silicone gasket maker (81160) Comes in a tube available from most decent auto shops.

And I've never ever needed any sealant where the headers meet the block. Thats just lazy, properly cleaned & with the right gasket, it should seal tight - especially considering its a machined flat surface on the head mating face.

i see, its just for my peace of mind for what im about to do. the specialists at performance exhaust centre used the red stuff with a gasket between the cat and catback flanges and cat and y pipe flanges too so i just thought i would also need the red stuff between the header and block with a gasket.

So you saying i just need a gasket alone? I might just buy some metal gaskets from the barn or something.