FTO AUSTRALIA

That's still too expensive for me. Might just have to leave the coilovers...

Teins come in many flavours and the lower price would probably be for the super street range, then there is the flex range and the mono-flex etc. To be honest, many people rate the BC gold's at tein flex levels yet they only cost $1.4k or so.

I'm not aware of any turbo exchange places, imho your best bet if you're looking to do that is to buy a new turbo and ebay the old one...you'll get a couple of hundred for it.

The a/r refers to either the front or rear housing though i'd say he'd be asking about the rear housing size you're after. The larger the a/r number is, the bigger the housing meaning there is better top end power because it's able to flow easier but it loses responsiveness because of the housing size...inversely a smaller a/r number would give better boost build up/response but a less strong top end. The a/r of your turbo should be written on the housing itself, front and rear generally.. my guess is it would probably be a .86 a/r.

The GT2860's come in many configurations AJ, usually denoted by gt2860-5 for example. Hard to say what you will need...your very best bet is to get a professional opinion on what size turbo to replace the dying one with...and when i say professional opinion, i don't mean joe's performance shop down the road...i mean someone like C&V performance (they really really really know their stuff, they custom specced/ordered a turbo for my old man's corolla 1.6L, responsive as buggery and boost doesn't drop even past 8000rpms YET it's a GT25 frame turbo flowing over 200fwkw's on pump but detuned for sanity). Anyone would agree it would seem impossible but it's happening in a 1.6l corolla lol.

Or the cheaper path is to just get it rebuilt...i would go for hyper gear as i recommended to you simply from feedback on other forums...have not seen one bad mention of them but lots of props. Or you can try and find a second hand one but if it's not the exact same spec/trim etc, you will need a retune to adjust for the different flow characteristics.

Thanks Delvance. I was all set to get a new one but looking at the cost of the other bits that I need I think I'll risk sending it to Hyper Gear and see what they quote at least.

C&V look good but expensive too.

GL AJ, let me know how it goes.

New/updated turbo would be nice but like you said, won't be cheap..you'll be potentially looking for new turbo and water lines, a retune to suit the flow characteristics of the new upgraded turbo, and possibly new pipework then there's the worry if the motor will like making much more power etc.

A standard rebuild would mean you can just get it off, rebuild, slap it back on and keep driving =)

There's other ways to extract performance outta the current setup before going to a different turbo anyhow...the old garrett 2860's are still good turbos and in use by many people.

Me and a mate started taking the turbo off today. Got the front pipes off easy enough, then the exhaust outlet off the rear but couldn't get to the exhaust inlet with getting the car on a hoist. I quick call to a mechanic mate and we start putting the car back together to go and take it to his shop.

The turbo is also mounted to a bracket which is attached to the strut tower but we couldn't get to those 3 bolts either.

We put it all back on and started the car to check all was ok. We didn't put the turbo (metal) heat shield back on and I noticed that there was a small crack in the top of the pipe where the exhaust gas comes out of the turbo. It's about 1.5cm long. Could this be the whistling noise???

Took the car to the mechanic and he pulled the front piping off and said that the turbo looked fine and there was no damage and it was spinning fine and no movement in it. He had a listen to it ticking over and again said that it was all good. Ok, time for a hot lap with him in it...

No boost! Pull over and have a look...The intercooler pipe has come off Turn around, back to the work shop and tighten that up. OK, now for the hot lap take two. He heard the noise but said it's deffo not the turbo as it's still making boost and there's no white smoke pouring out...

I'm going to take it back to the guy who did the exhaust and get him to either weld over the crack or perhaps add a flex pipe so that it doesn't happen again. The turbo is mounted to the body and not the engine so there is no give when the engine moves and we think that this has caused the crack.

So now that I know it's not the turbo and I've saved myself at least a $1000 I can move on to look at the suspension again

Also while he was looking at my car I took his 'toy car' out for a ride. It's Nissan Pulsar with a turbo on it and a few other mods. This thing f**king flew! It's running 13lbs and 200kw through the front wheels at the moment as it needs a bit of a tune but he's had about 320atwkw out of it before and it was running 10 second 1/4 miles.

Good to hear, a crack/leak like that will certainly give you a whistling kinda noise.

I had a leak recently too giving a whistling noise...one of the turbo's bolt on the front housing fell off!

It sounds like you already have decent sussy from the beginning of the thread?

AJ wrote: Also while he was looking at my car I took his 'toy car' out for a ride. It's Nissan Pulsar with a turbo on it and a few other mods. This thing f**king flew! It's running 13lbs and 200kw through the front wheels at the moment as it needs a bit of a tune but he's had about 320atwkw out of it before and it was running 10 second 1/4 miles.

has it got red wheels???

glad to hear all is good aj

Funny.
Before I took my magna off the road (again) it had/ has a whistle on the throttle body side. high pitch too.
happens coming on/ letting off boost.
But it does not affect boost.

that crack wont be helping, but wouldnt be of great consequence, perhaps a bit of boost creep I would think.

Meanwhile, yeah you may need to have a bracket fabbed up for the turbo as it definitely should be be mounted to the body

No, not red wheels Schumie. The whole thing looks stock/sh*t box.

I spoke to the guy who did the exhaust on the phone today. Top bloke. He asked why I waited so long to call him. I explained that I thought it was normal at first, then I thought it was the turbo and now I've found the crack. He's going to fix it for me and we'll talk about remounting the turbo as he agrees that it should not be mounted to the car!

He said that even if fixing the pipe doesn't get rid of the whistle at least the pipe is fixed. It shouldn't have happened and he stands by his work etc. Great service!

If it's not the cracked pipe causing the noise then we need to look for a vacuum leak perhaps. It should be this though as it only started the when I drove the car home from getting the exhaust done. The other reason I've not taken it back is because I picked it up on xmas eve and they closed for about 3 weeks, then we had Coffs and I've been busy etc etc.

Exhaust has been patched up but the whistle is still there. The car is still making good reliable boost. Don't know what to do?

Ben, are you up for having a look if I bring it around one night at all?

Its probably your bov if you've checked everything else.

Happy to have a look, when were you thinking?

Bennoz wrote:Its probably your bov if you've checked everything else.

Happy to have a look, when were you thinking?

Cheers. Sometime during the week if possible as weekends are booked up at the moment. After work? The car is still at the garage so I'll have to pick it up tomorrow night. So any night this week if you're free would be great.

Have taken the car to CRD to have a look at the turbo. They had the car on the dyno to try and diagnose the problem. They are going to have to take the turbo off and send it to Garrett which I'm predicting will result in having to buy a new one...

They have also said that it was running lean so they want to add a 500hp rated Walbro fuel pump and regulater. $250 for the pump and $220 for the regulator plus 3 hours labour.

Should I just get the turbo work done? How are these prices? Is the Walbro up to the job? Can I get the parts cheaper?

the pump is about right.... if they're including install.

The regulator though....................... jeebus, that's a lot.

Think even mine only cost about $150, unless this is a oem like replacement fitting job...

Thats about what my reg was. Fuel pump is a bit exxy thou. Think Hermans got 'em in his cabinet for $169.

So Dan thinks the pump is right and Ben thinks the reg is right I might as well go with them?

Would Herman do a better/cheaper job? Pull off turbo, send for testing/recondition. Refit turbo plus upgrade fuel pump and regulator for under $1300 (plus whatever turbo costs)?

Tough call mate. Labour rates would be the same or similar.

$120 per hour at CRD.

Pluses - It's nearer home, they have a good reputation.

By the time I drive to Hermans, pick up the part take it to CRD etc, I will have broken even with petrol and inconvenience. My time is pretty valuable at the moment. I guess I'll just get CRD to do it and hope that this isn't an expensive lesson.

Put it this way

If the pump they are talking about is this: http://www.justjap.com/store/product.ph ... at=&page=1
Which is what I bought and use in the magna.
Then only if the price you are quoted includes installation is it on par.
As you can see the price for that pump is roughly $100 less..

The regulator on the other hand
after I looked again is actually correct. almost to the dollar, so my bad on calling that one wrong.

So, dunno

I noted again you said 'plus 3 hours labor' so the price of the pump is pre labor cost then...?

Yes, they were the prices before labour. I've not told them to go ahead with that yet so I'll mention the prices there. Where did you get the regulator from?