FTO AUSTRALIA

I was thinking u should do this would be the best place

When I service my Air Conditioning I had to remove my strur bar and in turn busted off one of the upper strut mount bolts.
Yesterday I replaced the upper mount, which I thankfully recieved from ZFL45H1.
I also installed a reversing camera, which I bought off of eBay. It was designed for a direct replacement of a numberplate light for the Lancer. It has a camera and a LED number plate light. I had to make up a couple of spacers out of a polyethylene chopping board to drop the camera low enough to clear the FTO bumper.
I also replaced all my tail light globes.

Pics...

Hey bud did I see you near avoca beach on Saturday around noon?

Nah, I was at home doing all that work^^^

Sweeet!

Ahh righto. Only saw the back half of it for a split second. Saw it was red & that was about it. Took a stab in the dark haha!

Too lazy to get ac fixed but seems my ac only works when rpm is near 2.5k after getting my condenser fixed. All electrics are fine but I'm getting air bubbles in the drier window which suggests low charge. The inlet and outlet pipes on the drier are defiantly not the same temp which suggests a blockage there.

Do Fto tx valves block often? I think I should change that as well. What's the part number for the drier and valve??

payaya wrote:Too lazy to get ac fixed but seems my ac only works when rpm is near 2.5k after getting my condenser fixed. All electrics are fine but I'm getting air bubbles in the drier window which suggests low charge. The inlet and outlet pipes on the drier are defiantly not the same temp which suggests a blockage there.

Do Fto tx valves block often? I think I should change that as well. What's the part number for the drier and valve??

Dryer is the same as a Magna im pretty sure.

Firstly, when you open any automotive AC system you MUST change the receiver/dryer and vacuum down the system.

Did you flush out the system to remove any contaminents and then replace oil and refrigerant?
Did you vacuum down the system to remove all moisture?
Did you atleast add moar oil for the oil lost from replacing your condensor? (Although this should not be done unless you are using the same oil that is already in system, don't mix oils)
Could your compressor have had internal damage dispersing metal into the system causing a blockage?

Your problems could be caused by a blockage as you have suggested.
and/or
Low refrigerant level can cause bubbles in sight glass and possable different temps @ input/output
and/or
Moisture in your system can also cause these symptoms, bubbles in sight glass, and it will freeze up in the TX valve causing blockage and eventually it will melt allowing correct operation. This will repeat continually.

Although......With todays synthetic AC oils the sight glass is unreliable as the oil will just milk/fog up the glass.

Symptoms are generally diagnosed with pressure gauges......
TX valve stuck open - Low pressure side = High / High pressure side = High - Sight glass clear + Low cooling in car
Blocked System - Low = Low / High = Low - Sight glass clear + Low cooling in car
Moisture in system - Low = Low / High = Low - Alternates normal/poor performance

You can attempt to strip and clean out the TX valve with brake clean and compresssed air.

Part numbers are....

Receiver/drier....RD7039
http://speedyairspares.com.au/products/ ... 57-29.html

TX Valve....TX1023
http://speedyairspares.com.au/products/ ... 68-35.html

Contact them to make sure....Phone: (07) 4152 7693 - E-mail: jeremy@speedyairspares.com.au
http://speedyairspares.com.au/pages/contact_us.html

PHIL069 wrote:Firstly, when you open any automotive AC system you MUST change the receiver/dryer and vacuum down the system.

Did you flush out the system to remove any contaminents and then replace oil and refrigerant?
Did you vacuum down the system to remove all moisture?
Did you atleast add moar oil for the oil lost from replacing your condensor? (Although this should not be done unless you are using the same oil that is already in system, don't mix oils)
Could your compressor have had internal damage dispersing metal into the system causing a blockage?

Your problems could be caused by a blockage as you have suggested.
and/or
Low refrigerant level can cause bubbles in sight glass and possable different temps @ input/output
and/or
Moisture in your system can also cause these symptoms, bubbles in sight glass, and it will freeze up in the TX valve causing blockage and eventually it will melt allowing correct operation. This will repeat continually.

Although......With todays synthetic AC oils the sight glass is unreliable as the oil will just milk/fog up the glass.

Symptoms are generally diagnosed with pressure gauges......
TX valve stuck open - Low pressure side = High / High pressure side = High - Sight glass clear + Low cooling in car
Blocked System - Low = Low / High = Low - Sight glass clear + Low cooling in car
Moisture in system - Low = Low / High = Low - Alternates normal/poor performance

You can attempt to strip and clean out the TX valve with brake clean and compresssed air.

Part numbers are....

Receiver/drier....RD7039
http://speedyairspares.com.au/products/ ... 57-29.html

TX Valve....TX1023
http://speedyairspares.com.au/products/ ... 68-35.html

Contact them to make sure....Phone: (07) 4152 7693 - E-mail: jeremy@speedyairspares.com.au
http://speedyairspares.com.au/pages/contact_us.html

The condenser copped a pin hole leak, which was fixed and condenser was flushed. Installed condenser and the ac guy vucuumed the stuff out, and replaced the oil and refrigerant.

I didn't replace the drier as the guy said there was no need!

How do you flush the system out anyway?

All good hate ordering stuff online! I know what other cars use them now so thanks for the above link!! I don't have the test gauges and there is defiantely a block at the drier the temp differences of the lines are way different. When I let the car idle, through the site screen I notice the refigerant only half filling the passageway in the drier, and when I rev the car I can see the passageway fill up and when I go back to idle speed the level of refrigerant drops again and then I see bubbles!

Take it back to the "AC guy", his work should be covered by warranty.

The Australian Refrigerant Council (ARC) states that a receiver MUST be replaced after being openned to the atmosphear and/or every 5 years.

How much refrigerant did the "AC guy" put into your system. First I put 550 grams going on pressures and it didn't work on a hot day. I then topped it up to the same level that a Galant uses, "Galant HJ_1993 - 1997_760 +/- 20 grams" and it now works perfectly.

The system can be flushed two different ways...
1. Take all components out of car and use a pressure tank filled with brake clean and blow pressurised brake clean through each component and hoses.
2. Leave all components installed and use a recovery system, that blows brake clean or refrigerant through system and then blows it all back out with a sudden large volume of compressed air.
No.1 is moar efficient.

Here is a PDF with all the info you will ever need for AC systems....
http://www.ariazone.com/manuals/Automot ... Manual.pdf

Here is a PDF R134a Refrigerant Capacity Guide....
http://www.ariazone.com/brochures/Refri ... 0Guide.pdf

Replaced my VeilSide wing and boot lid today. Thanks again Bennoz
Also fitted a "Red Flame" flare into the flare holder. I received flares from work... "Red Flame" "Orange Smoke" "Parachute"...

Pics....

Old Wing...
No wing...
New wing...
Flare...

How much I want one









Oh and replacement boot/wing looks great even color wise looks matched

I see no differance with the spoilers, they both look $hit

As for the flares, awesome

ZFL45H1 wrote:How much I want one

You can have one ZFL45H1, you have given me plenty of parts ...Take your pick ...Not the Parachute one though

kiz wrote:I see no differance with the spoilers, they both look $hit

sweeeeeeeeet I'll be over some time on the weekend if your not busy I'll txt u to setup a time

ZFL45H1 wrote:How much I want one

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Daniel2019 wrote:

ZFL45H1 wrote:How much I want one

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

You should take the middle section out of it, I love them with that removed!

Vectose wrote:

Daniel2019 wrote:

ZFL45H1 wrote:How much I want one

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

$1000 ea
or
http://www.bcf.com.au/online-store/prod ... 8252#Cross
Would only cost you two $30 each for one of each flare

BTW....my ones are past "use by" but they will still work and they look good

silverGPX wrote:You should take the middle section out of it, I love them with that removed!

Sorry, but...