FTO AUSTRALIA

Finished installing my Viper alarm/remote start
I just had to clean up all the cabling, and mount the sensors, all done for the time being, the Proximity sensor will need adjusting and maybe the shock sensor too.
In a couple of weeks I will do the window raiser/lowering unit, but just don't have the time at the moment.
Now to enjoy the remote start in the mornings

A very quick, average quality video of the remote start I installed

Good work! Did you end up getting the reed switches to work?

Vectose wrote:Good work! Did you end up getting the reed switches to work?

Thanks

Haven't had time to do that just yet, that and the window roller are the next things to do on the list

Installed a amp and sub

Took an hour to find a way through the firewall.......

King hit kiz wrote:Installed a amp and sub

Took an hour to find a way through the firewall.......

Pfft just get rust like me. Takes about two seconds to find a way from engine bay to inside the car

Nar i'll pass Not too keen on rust... :/ Not a top bloke at all !!!

Nice work on the alarm install.


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Technikhaus wrote:

A very quick, average quality video of the remote start I installed

will that makes my car easier to startup?

you could say so :p

Changed over the alternator in the HKS FTO. Voltmeter still reads ridiculously low (i.e. sub 11V with my truck battery in the car).

I dunno why you all complain about how hard it is to change the alternator. I had the old one out, the new one in and the car running in 2.5hrs...

Pansies...

fraz91 wrote:Changed over the alternator in the HKS FTO. Voltmeter still reads ridiculously low (i.e. sub 11V with my truck battery in the car).

I dunno why you all complain about how hard it is to change the alternator. I had the old one out, the new one in and the car running in 2.5hrs...

Pansies...

2.5hrs compared to my 20min job on the Merc, Magna


So, the alt didn't fix the job then?

Astron_Boy wrote:

fraz91 wrote:Changed over the alternator in the HKS FTO. Voltmeter still reads ridiculously low (i.e. sub 11V with my truck battery in the car).

I dunno why you all complain about how hard it is to change the alternator. I had the old one out, the new one in and the car running in 2.5hrs...

Pansies...

2.5hrs compared to my 20min job on the Merc, Magna


So, the alt didn't fix the job then?

As far as we can tell, it didn't make a difference. Wound the idle back down and it wasn't stalling, which is a plus, but it needs a new battery because the old one was shagged.

Going to either reco the old alt. or get a new one for it, but I'm not convinced that it's the problem anymore...

Well yeah, given it didn't directly solve it, it cancels out my theory also.

I dare say the final thing to do would be an ECU swap...

Have you checked the eirth connections at the battery and engine bay area at all?

aza013 wrote:Have you checked the earth connections at the battery and engine bay area at all?

There was no excessive parasitic drain on the battery, which I assume would rule out a bad earth connection. It ran fine while it was warming up, but the lights weren't terribly bright inside and kept flickering with the indicators. It also idled fine once warmed up, albeit a little low (sub 800rpm).

atleast it started!

fraz91 wrote:

aza013 wrote:Have you checked the earth connections at the battery and engine bay area at all?

There was no excessive parasitic drain on the battery, which I assume would rule out a bad earth connection. It ran fine while it was warming up, but the lights weren't terribly bright inside and kept flickering with the indicators. It also idled fine once warmed up, albeit a little low (sub 800rpm).

I checked the earths and WD'd all connectors to the engine.
Didn't fix a thing, same result.
Changed the ISC prior, and tested his original on our car *which is it's new home as his was better than ours...*


So.... I simply think the ECU has a few dud caps * as Mits's of that era have...

Only final thing I can think of given so many people have gone over it to no avail.

800 is a low idle?
Mine sits at 500 flat, doesn't bounce up n down/stall etc I thought that was about nomal?

Taz wrote:800 is a low idle?
Mine sits at 500 flat, doesn't bounce up n down/stall etc I thought that was about nomal?

Considering the idle was previously 2000, 800 almost sounded too low for it. Any lower and it started to get sketchy, once in R/D it dropped to about 600.

Gotta remember this motor is slightly decompressed to account for the extra boost.