FTO AUSTRALIA

Hmmm looking at those pics, they do look like pinholes. But they definitely aren't, it's little grains, sitting on top of the paint. Some areas worse then others

destinationtoby wrote:Nope, no heat lamps.
I thought acrylic was easier then 2k
And nope not pin holes, had that issue with the primer at the start, and it was because I wasn't thinning it properly.
It was all sanded perfect with 400grit before laying down the silver.
I guess I'll have a go at sanding it flat with 1500 and see how it looks. Otherwise a trip to the paint place with my boot

Easier to coat and dry... But more of a PIA after the colour is down. Don't have to do as much after work with 2pk..

Could be a range of things.. Could be some condensation in the line... Could be the pressure.. Could be the flow rate on the gun.. Could be to thin a mixture..

rock_it wrote:

destinationtoby wrote:Nope, no heat lamps.
I thought acrylic was easier then 2k
And nope not pin holes, had that issue with the primer at the start, and it was because I wasn't thinning it properly.
It was all sanded perfect with 400grit before laying down the silver.
I guess I'll have a go at sanding it flat with 1500 and see how it looks. Otherwise a trip to the paint place with my boot

Easier to coat and dry... But more of a PIA after the colour is down. Don't have to do as much after work with 2pk..

Could be a range of things.. Could be some condensation in the line... Could be the pressure.. Could be the flow rate on the gun.. Could be to thin a mixture..

Could be too thin, I'll try thicker.

I really would try on a different piece of metal though..

Could be as easy as a gun setting. I would use different guns for primer vs paint. They do spray differently..

So if you are using the same gun with same settings.. Could be your problem.. But like I said, been a while since I worked in the trade. Guns have changed, paints have changed and when I left, my shop had only just started using a computer to accurately and digitally mix the colour..

Looks like overspray to me.
Maybe you are holding the gun too far from the job and have the gun set for too much paint and are moving your hand too fast accross the job and are not holding the gun @ a 90 degree angle from the job.
You need to get a nice even wet coat on the job, just like when you spray out of a can.

If you had used 2pk and you got the same failure, you would have to sand the whole lot off and start again.

Just give it a light sand back until smooth and then give it another coat.

Agree with rock_it, spray something else with your gun to adjust it just before you spray your car.
I sprayed a couple of old rotors each time I refilled the gun and checked out the paint coat on those, tuned the gun until I was happy and then sprayed the car.

Mmmk
So I need a smaller tester sheet of metal.
Thanks Phil, could easily be that aswell, also I don't think I'm waiting long enough in between coats (bout 1-2minutes) saw some similar looking issues on utube of someone putting the coats on too quick.
I think the air pressure needs to be adjusted aswell.
Thanks guiz, I need all the pointers I can get if I want this to turn out half decent.

destinationtoby wrote:Mmmk
So I need a smaller tester sheet of metal.
Thanks Phil, could easily be that aswell, also I don't think I'm waiting long enough in between coats (bout 1-2minutes) saw some similar looking issues on utube of someone putting the coats on too quick.
I think the air pressure needs to be adjusted aswell.
Thanks guiz, I need all the pointers I can get if I want this to turn out half decent.

My timing was 1 smoke between coats.. Was the perfect time..

...and it would be a good idea to have something extract the overspray from your spray room.
Maybe a fan pointing outside.

PHIL069 wrote:...and it would be a good idea to have something extract the overspray from your spray room.
Maybe a fan pointing outside.

That is a good idea..

Abit bettereerrr

'Bit' better. Still a crime against nature though mate

Come on he's not doing too bad considering..

Respect points for having a go at it.

Bennoz wrote:'Bit' better. Still a crime against nature though mate

anything u say is invalid after seeing u wearing this v
And knowing u wore these v

I had a f**ken headache yesterday I tell ya

f**k toby you love a challenge dude...

Other gen y's take note... This is forum "contribution"

Hey, I'm trying :p

But yeah, you're taking on a massive job Toby, good on you for at least attempting it!

Didn't look so good today, just sanded both back and might give it another go tommorow after work.. Going to need to order more paint at this rate.

destinationtoby wrote:Didn't look so good today, just sanded both back and might give it another go tommorow after work.. Going to need to order more paint at this rate.

Just watch how thick you do the paint.. Your gaps will be all fucked, and wont line up or close properly..

rock_it wrote:

destinationtoby wrote:Didn't look so good today, just sanded both back and might give it another go tommorow after work.. Going to need to order more paint at this rate.

Just watch how thick you do the paint.. Your gaps will be all fucked, and wont line up or close properly..

What gaps do you mean?
I have really tried everything, but cannot get rid of this rough patchy sh*t ontop. I've minimized it, but it's still there.
Looks nice underneath but screwed with that ontop.
Also are u sure I should rub back with 1500grit? Wet n dry? before clear coating, Because it does leave slightly noticeable swirl/sanding marks on the silver.......

destinationtoby wrote:

rock_it wrote:

destinationtoby wrote:Didn't look so good today, just sanded both back and might give it another go tommorow after work.. Going to need to order more paint at this rate.

Just watch how thick you do the paint.. Your gaps will be all fucked, and wont line up or close properly..

What gaps do you mean?
I have really tried everything, but cannot get rid of this rough patchy sh*t ontop. I've minimized it, but it's still there.
Looks nice underneath but screwed with that ontop.
Also are u sure I should rub back with 1500grit? Wet n dry? before clear coating, Because it does leave slightly noticeable swirl/sanding marks on the silver.......

Gaps as when you put everything on the car. Thick paint will close gaps like door jam and panels won't close properly.

Sanding back the colour can vary on the thickness of paint, and sh*t in it. Spots we had to cut the colour with 600.. But you only need a light sand, to bring out the colour.

Cutting back the clear coat is the same. Can work from 600 - 1800 to get really smooth. But you need good cutting compounds, buffer and polish afterwards.. I think I have an old book somewhere that may help you.

Moving house at the moment so bound to find it shortly. But I would practice the technique on something first. Remember this was me working with paints in about 1995. So there could have been better techniques (and quality materials) since then..