FTO AUSTRALIA

Yeah Im going for a smaller intercooler. One I've got is massively overkill.

Here's a little clip from Wakefield.

I'm pushing a little at 7psi the first time I go past but taking it easy on the second past due to over heating issues.

When I was running well on 10psi I was keeping up with the Caterhams on the straights.

^^ busy day at the track

jizzes!
Gonna share this on crapbook!

I've had a few issues with the revs dropping really low when at the lights or stop sign etc. It feels like it's going to stall and a couple of times it did.

I've had the alternator checked and it's fine. I've changed the stepper motor so that should be ok.

When the car is at idle the revs slowly drop really low to about 500, where normally it's about 750 rpm. The lights on the dash also dim and sometimes get dimmer in time with the indicator. The volt meter ticks in time too.

The mechanic (crap one around the corner) wasn't sure what it was but was going to check for vac leaks and adjust my idle. he mentioned something about a smoke test to see if there were any leaks any where but I told him to hold off on that for now (never heard of a smoke test).

Any ideas?

you had the alternator tested, what about the regulator?
They should have checked that at the same time, but... sometimes they just don't.

AJ wrote:I've had a few issues with the revs dropping really low when at the lights or stop sign etc. It feels like it's going to stall and a couple of times it did.

I've had the alternator checked and it's fine. I've changed the stepper motor so that should be ok.

When the car is at idle the revs slowly drop really low to about 500, where normally it's about 750 rpm. The lights on the dash also dim and sometimes get dimmer in time with the indicator. The volt meter ticks in time too.

The mechanic (crap one around the corner) wasn't sure what it was but was going to check for vac leaks and adjust my idle. he mentioned something about a smoke test to see if there were any leaks any where but I told him to hold off on that for now (never heard of a smoke test).

Any ideas?

that's what is happening to me sometimes aj!

AJ wrote:I've had a few issues with the revs dropping really low when at the lights or stop sign etc. It feels like it's going to stall and a couple of times it did.

I've had the alternator checked and it's fine. I've changed the stepper motor so that should be ok.

When the car is at idle the revs slowly drop really low to about 500, where normally it's about 750 rpm. The lights on the dash also dim and sometimes get dimmer in time with the indicator. The volt meter ticks in time too.

The mechanic (crap one around the corner) wasn't sure what it was but was going to check for vac leaks and adjust my idle. he mentioned something about a smoke test to see if there were any leaks any where but I told him to hold off on that for now (never heard of a smoke test).

Any ideas?

Doing it when warm or cold?

Could be a lot of things. Doubt it's your alternator though. First I will check your ISC coils when your engine is hot, as sometimes this plays funny buggers with your warm idle speed.

Check your throttle cable is within spec and make sure your TPS idle switch is reading right at idle.

A smoke test is when they inject smoke up your intake and see if there are any leaks from your engine. You can do the same by using compressed air!

7months bump

This has been fixed some time ago .

He went to a sparky. What did it turn out to be?

Not actually fixed yet. Went to a sparky and he couldn't really tell what it was or find a problem.

It mainly does it when warm but has been known to do it when cold.

A few theories from the bonfire were to replace the alternator. Can any one tell me the part number of the 4 pin GPX alternator please?

Any other ideas?

I still think thermistor.

AJ wrote:Not actually fixed yet. Went to a sparky and he couldn't really tell what it was or find a problem.

It mainly does it when warm but has been known to do it when cold.

A few theories from the bonfire were to replace the alternator. Can any one tell me the part number of the 4 pin GPX alternator please?

Any other ideas?

Battery/Charge performance decreases as the engine gets hotter. Quickest test will be to test your ground circuit and charging circuit for excessive resistance.

What does your base idle sit at? It should sit at 750-800 rpm in park. On the rev counter a lot of people don't see the line just above 0 RPM is 500rpm, so the needle should sit about half way between 0 and 1000.

Mitsubishi's alternator output is controlled by the ECU, so it could be an ECU issue as well.

Loss of rpm, dimming of lights etc could point to a bad ground somewhere. Maybe check the cable from battery to chassis and chassis to engine block, I know mine were stuffed. The FTO uses thin arse 8 gauge wire standard unfortunately.

Another quick test is to connect a multimeter to pins 1 and 3 to your TPS. With throttle butter closed there should be continuity. Once butterfly is moved there should be no continuity. This tests if your idle switch in the TPS is adjusted properly.

Took the car to another mechanic/sparky at the weekend with the alternator from Chris' car in it.

I almost didn't make it. Driving along the dials would all suddenly drop to zero and trip meter would go blank then all come back on suddenly.

They tested the alternator while in the car and it wasn't producing enough so I ordered a new one and it arrived today. Looks like they are going to fit it today or tomorrow.

$307 +GST for the part.

Be interesting to see if this fixes it.

Ooooh, a new 4 pin alternator. Don't see them every day!

$307+ is a very good price for a spanking new alternator.

Is it from Jaylec? Can't find anything from google, they don't have a website.

It is a Jaylec but I don't know where he got it from. I told him the price of the one dstocks posted and I called them and they wanted $480 for a Jaylec. My mechanic made 1 call and got mine delivered same day.

It's getting fitted today.

Interested to see results of this