FTO AUSTRALIA

That and I was a few tinnies in by that stage

Out running motorcyclists! \o/

Apparently they don't like being overtaken.

Test mounted the side skirts, need a bit of work.
Drilled a million holes, and mounted the rheo to the new bar. I need to move some of the mounting holes, as it's not sitting perfectly straight, but it looks pretty good!
will add a pic later on.


edit:

a bad pic:

Replaced my fuel pump and in-tank gauge sender yesterday, thanks Shane
My fuel gauge sender was worn out, the brass contact points and circuit board were so worn that the brass contacts were touching each other, sending false and constantly changing signals to the cluster.
BTW; the pump assembly is a bugger to undo/remove.

Fixed my alarm, it was only working intermitantly. I had to unlock the car with the keys for the last couple of weeks.
Ended up being...a fuse holder had collapsed , took me a couple of hours to track down the culprit.

Today I washed the FTO, currently I am buffing it with Maquires Ultimate, then I will polish with Ice synthetic.

Today I also bought a new headunit from Auto Pro, double din touch screen. JVC KW-AV71BT reduced from $800 to $550 then I talked them down to $490.

Technikhaus wrote:Test mounted the side skirts, need a bit of work.
Drilled a million holes, and mounted the rheo to the new bar. I need to move some of the mounting holes, as it's not sitting perfectly straight, but it looks pretty good!
will add a pic later on.


edit:

a bad pic:

Reverse Panda!

Looking good

PHIL069 wrote:Replaced my fuel pump and in-tank gauge sender yesterday, thanks Shane
My fuel gauge sender was worn out, the brass contact points and circuit board were so worn that the brass contacts were touching each other, sending false and constantly changing signals to the cluster.
BTW; the pump assembly is a bugger to undo/remove.

Fixed my alarm, it was only working intermitantly. I had to unlock the car with the keys for the last couple of weeks.
Ended up being...a fuse holder had collapsed , took me a couple of hours to track down the culprit.

Today I washed the FTO, currently I am buffing it with Maquires Ultimate, then I will polish with Ice synthetic.

Today I also bought a new headunit from Auto Pro, double din touch screen. JVC KW-AV71BT reduced from $800 to $550 then I talked them down to $490.

Finally joined the double din club lol what r u doin with your CB radio

ZFL45H1 wrote:

PHIL069 wrote:Replaced my fuel pump and in-tank gauge sender yesterday, thanks Shane
My fuel gauge sender was worn out, the brass contact points and circuit board were so worn that the brass contacts were touching each other, sending false and constantly changing signals to the cluster.
BTW; the pump assembly is a bugger to undo/remove.

Fixed my alarm, it was only working intermitantly. I had to unlock the car with the keys for the last couple of weeks.
Ended up being...a fuse holder had collapsed , took me a couple of hours to track down the culprit.

Today I washed the FTO, currently I am buffing it with Maquires Ultimate, then I will polish with Ice synthetic.

Today I also bought a new headunit from Auto Pro, double din touch screen. JVC KW-AV71BT reduced from $800 to $550 then I talked them down to $490.

Finally joined the double din club lol what r u doin with your CB radio

I dunno yet...
Dump it and use a hand held?
Mount it under the seat?
Mount it in the glove box?
Buy a slim CB and mount it in the glove box?

Phil how did u remove the big pipe off the fuel pump? Did u just take it off underneath or were u able to get it undone at the backseat?

Use a shifter on the pipe and a spanner on the outlet pipe (be very firm but gentle) use vice grips to hold the hose in place after you've Un done it otherwise it's an absolute bitch to get back on... yes you will twist the f**k out of the hose but I've done it on 4 cars now and pretty much have it sussed...

Take 6 of the 8 nuts off the actual unit first before you remove the pipes, otherwise It's hard to get them off while stopping the hose from uncoiling itself

What a prick of a pipe
Both fittings for the pipe under the seat (hose + pipe) have the pipe nut + hose nut soldered ie the nuts are not turnable.
I undid it under the car (the hose fitting on the small pipe under the car is turnable and easy to get to), but then I still couldn't pull the pump out with the hose connected.
I had to undo the under seat connection, with the under car fitting disconnected you can now turn the whole hose from under the seat.
...but the connection under the seat is near to impossable to crack. I near stripped the nut, even with a flare spanner. I used vice grips to hold the small nut and used all my might to crack the 19mm hose nut with an opened end spanner. You have to be careful to not allow the metal pipe to twist while doing this.
Eventually it did give and I removed the pump out through the under seat hole.
My tank was too full and a bit of fuel pored out.
Putting it back in was sh*t easy, do up the under seat pipe first then do up the under car pipe.

The only other way you could do it would be to undo the under car connection and lower the tank.

Drop the tank. Ive found thats the only safe way.Its only 4 nuts and the 2 pipes going to the filler.

dstocks wrote:

Technikhaus wrote:Test mounted the side skirts, need a bit of work.
Drilled a million holes, and mounted the rheo to the new bar. I need to move some of the mounting holes, as it's not sitting perfectly straight, but it looks pretty good!
will add a pic later on.


edit:

a bad pic:

http://technikhaus.co.nz/fto/IMG_9066.jpg

Reverse Panda!

Looking good

Cheers, a few fitment issues so far, but nothing that I can't work around

PHIL069 wrote:What a prick of a pipe
Both fittings for the pipe under the seat (hose + pipe) have the pipe nut + hose nut soldered ie the nuts are not turnable.
I undid it under the car (the hose fitting on the small pipe under the car is turnable and easy to get to), but then I still couldn't pull the pump out with the hose connected.
I had to undo the under seat connection, with the under car fitting disconnected you can now turn the whole hose from under the seat.
...but the connection under the seat is near to impossable to crack. I near stripped the nut, even with a flare spanner. I used vice grips to hold the small nut and used all my might to crack the 19mm hose nut with an opened end spanner. You have to be careful to not allow the metal pipe to twist while doing this.
Eventually it did give and I removed the pump out through the under seat hole.
My tank was too full and a bit of fuel pored out.
Putting it back in was sh*t easy, do up the under seat pipe first then do up the under car pipe.

The only other way you could do it would be to undo the under car connection and lower the tank.

Use an oversize shifter instead of the 19mm spanner and your life will be so much easier(leverage!)

Use an open end spanner on the small nut and push in the opposite direction...

I have twisted 1 pipe but it was okay because we were replacing the whole unit

SchumieFan wrote:Use a shifter on the pipe and a spanner on the outlet pipe (be very firm but gentle) use vice grips to hold the hose in place after you've Un done it otherwise it's an absolute bitch to get back on... yes you will twist the f**k out of the hose but I've done it on 4 cars now and pretty much have it sussed...

Take 6 of the 8 nuts off the actual unit first before you remove the pipes, otherwise It's hard to get them off while stopping the hose from uncoiling itself

Dude... get under it & undo the hose... saves all that dicking around with twisted pipes. Hardly need to jack it up to get at.

dstocks wrote:Drop the tank. Ive found thats the only safe way.Its only 4 nuts and the 2 pipes going to the filler.

Then I would have had to drain 60 litres of fuel out first.
It wasn't to hard to undo the large hose under the car and then undo it under the seat. Leave the hose in place while the pump is out, then screw the fittings back together. First under the seat then under the car.

Bennoz wrote:

SchumieFan wrote:Use a shifter on the pipe and a spanner on the outlet pipe (be very firm but gentle) use vice grips to hold the hose in place after you've Un done it otherwise it's an absolute bitch to get back on... yes you will twist the f**k out of the hose but I've done it on 4 cars now and pretty much have it sussed...

Take 6 of the 8 nuts off the actual unit first before you remove the pipes, otherwise It's hard to get them off while stopping the hose from uncoiling itself

Dude... get under it & undo the hose... saves all that dicking around with twisted pipes. Hardly need to jack it up to get at.

Yeah but no where near as rewarding when the c**t goes back in properly

(Thanks for the tip boss!)

SchumieFan wrote:Use an oversize shifter instead of the 19mm spanner and your life will be so much easier(leverage!)

Use an open end spanner on the small nut and push in the opposite direction...

I have twisted 1 pipe but it was okay because we were replacing the whole unit

Sidchrome 19mm spanner is quite long...
Open end spanner would have not held the small nut if a flare spanner couldn't do it. It was that tight it was going to strip whatever I used.
Yes I was pushing in opposite directions, even pulling them together with one hand (which is moar effective), but the fitting wouldn't crack. I had to go vice grips and long spanner.
Don't you know that a technician doesn't use a shifter

PHIL069 wrote:

ZFL45H1 wrote:

PHIL069 wrote:Replaced my fuel pump and in-tank gauge sender yesterday, thanks Shane
My fuel gauge sender was worn out, the brass contact points and circuit board were so worn that the brass contacts were touching each other, sending false and constantly changing signals to the cluster.
BTW; the pump assembly is a bugger to undo/remove.

Fixed my alarm, it was only working intermitantly. I had to unlock the car with the keys for the last couple of weeks.
Ended up being...a fuse holder had collapsed , took me a couple of hours to track down the culprit.

Today I washed the FTO, currently I am buffing it with Maquires Ultimate, then I will polish with Ice synthetic.

Today I also bought a new headunit from Auto Pro, double din touch screen. JVC KW-AV71BT reduced from $800 to $550 then I talked them down to $490.

Finally joined the double din club lol what r u doin with your CB radio

I dunno yet...
Dump it and use a hand held?
Mount it under the seat?
Mount it in the glove box?
Buy a slim CB and mount it in the glove box?

If you are selling your CB, I'll grab it...I went from a double din to a single so have enough room for it

shadowarrior wrote:If you are selling your CB, I'll grab it...I went from a double din to a single so have enough room for it

I will keep you in mind