FTO AUSTRALIA

Shhtuart wrote:

Bennoz wrote:Might have to be the guinea pig for these things as well...

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/151051399608 ... 1423.l2649

Straight swap or do they require modification?

Any benefits over a version R rear control arm?

Hence Guinea Pig.

I was going to try these, but simply have not come to that point yet.

bjk wrote:Noob question. What do these kinds of parts do?

Which ones? The droplinks or the rear lower control arms?

Astron_Boy wrote:

Shhtuart wrote:

Bennoz wrote:Might have to be the guinea pig for these things as well...

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/151051399608 ... 1423.l2649

Straight swap or do they require modification?

Any benefits over a version R rear control arm?

Hence Guinea Pig.

I was going to try these, but simply have not come to that point yet.

The arm itself is a direct fit, confirmed by RichardB in the UK

http://www.ftooc.org/forum/showthread.p ... -Rear-Arms (will need an ftooc account to see)

It's the swaybar links that will be the only differences, I think the bracket that comes with it will by a vertical GPX style, so may need to modify it to suit my GR style horizontal link. Either that, or I use the GTO style links with 1 horizontal ball joint & 1 vertical bush/washer/nut combo.

You could just use a GPX or GPR swaybar though to make it work?

Then that'd make my 23mm Whiteline unit redundant

23mm?
I have a 22mm whiteline rear swaybar but it suits the GPX/GPR style links.
Too stiff in my opinion anyway, better off with GPR bar for street use

Are you certain it's 23mm and not 22mm?
As from memory the Whiteline website had 22mm written there?

Bennoz wrote:

Shane001 wrote:

Bennoz wrote:Yeah there is a sleeve on the arm as well. I'm think those will press into it as the side face is a bit narrower & the diametre slightly bigger than the ones I used.

Hmm, so looking at the last pic, I can see how this will work now. Ben can you remember when you pressed the old ones out whether the rubber centre pressed out separate from the outer sleave. Looking at the pics it looks like the rubber is pretty well moulded to this sleave?

Yes it was moulded to the sleeve, very much like an engine mount insert. Oh and it was a f&@king cock to press out

Reply is a bit late but when I took my trailing arm bush out I used a hacksaw to cut through the sleeve on the bush, bent it inwards with a chisel then pushed it out by hand.

Simples

Should I replace the alignment bolts and washers on the rear when I replace my bushes? And are they only available from Mitsubishi?

Vectose wrote:Should I replace the alignment bolts and washers on the rear when I replace my bushes? And are they only available from Mitsubishi?

Shouldn't need to, unless they've been excessively worn or are badly rusted/pitted. If they're lightly rusted, then go over them with a wire brush and use some LMM grease or anti-seize on the body of the bolt. Do not use it on the thread, as it makes stripping them easier.

As for availability, I'd say they're a mitsi-only part.

Was just reading through some old posts and read that Bennoz and Shane have both had problems with the alignment bolts and washers.

Vectose wrote:Was just reading through some old posts and read that Bennoz and Shane have both had problems with the alignment bolts and washers.

I replaced all of mine but then again, living in Scotland meant I had to cut them all of with a hacksaw

Replaced all 4 coilovers about 5 months ago because when we purchased the car all 4 TEINS were beyond repair
GOT 4 complete custom built FTO kit from XYZ Racing on the gold coast including PillowBall Tops for just under $1500
replaced all of the swaybar bushes as well

relatively easy to fit just time consuming getting the ride height correct.

feels great on the road nice and tight
corners perfecty

spetz wrote:Are you certain it's 23mm and not 22mm?
As from memory the Whiteline website had 22mm written there?

23mm mate. It was pulled off the site years ago, along with the other GR option rear sawybars & about the same time they discontinued the GPX front swaybars.

That's not to say they can't make them though, the swaybar jigs are irrelevant of the spring steel diametre.

And if I was over to get another one made, be it by Whiteline or Kmac or Selbys etc, I would make it much larger. FTO's are one of the most under-swaybarred cars around. The Evo's are now running 26mm swaybars on the front.

fraz91 wrote:

Vectose wrote:Should I replace the alignment bolts and washers on the rear when I replace my bushes? And are they only available from Mitsubishi?

Shouldn't need to, unless they've been excessively worn or are badly rusted/pitted. If they're lightly rusted, then go over them with a wire brush and use some LMM grease or anti-seize on the body of the bolt. Do not use it on the thread, as it makes stripping them easier.

As for availability, I'd say they're a mitsi-only part.

Yeah, lots of wheel alignments over the years can chew out the elliptical washers. The half moon bolts can also get chewed out.

I got sick of it happening (I do get a lot of wheel alignments, especially when I was doing a lot of track work) which is why I ended up locking them in place & using the Megan arms to do the adjusting.

Yes, Mitsi specific, but common to the CE Lancer & Mirage. I've found some in good nic at the wreckers before. Also dstocks.

I do plan on getting the Megan arms further down the track. Will see if they can get a decent alignment done with the current bolts.

Cheers guys, finally doing my suspension overhaul after a year

Bennoz wrote:

spetz wrote:Are you certain it's 23mm and not 22mm?
As from memory the Whiteline website had 22mm written there?

23mm mate. It was pulled off the site years ago, along with the other GR option rear sawybars & about the same time they discontinued the GPX front swaybars.

That's not to say they can't make them though, the swaybar jigs are irrelevant of the spring steel diametre.

And if I was over to get another one made, be it by Whiteline or Kmac or Selbys etc, I would make it much larger. FTO's are one of the most under-swaybarred cars around. The Evo's are now running 26mm swaybars on the front.

I have the 22mm front swaybar set at soft (supposedly 20mm I think) and the Whiteline rear swaybar (can't remember the thickness, was it 22mm as well?) which is set to the middle and it's too stiff for the road. There's zero body roll and you feel every bump.

Is yours the same, with practically zero body roll and feels stiff?
I have Tein SS coilovers

spetz wrote:

Bennoz wrote:

spetz wrote:Are you certain it's 23mm and not 22mm?
As from memory the Whiteline website had 22mm written there?

23mm mate. It was pulled off the site years ago, along with the other GR option rear sawybars & about the same time they discontinued the GPX front swaybars.

That's not to say they can't make them though, the swaybar jigs are irrelevant of the spring steel diametre.

And if I was over to get another one made, be it by Whiteline or Kmac or Selbys etc, I would make it much larger. FTO's are one of the most under-swaybarred cars around. The Evo's are now running 26mm swaybars on the front.

I have the 22mm front swaybar set at soft (supposedly 20mm I think) and the Whiteline rear swaybar (can't remember the thickness, was it 22mm as well?) which is set to the middle and it's too stiff for the road. There's zero body roll and you feel every bump.

Is yours the same, with practically zero body roll and feels stiff?
I have Tein SS coilovers

I've only ever seen your Merc.
When will you post pics of this FTO?

spetz wrote:I have the 22mm front swaybar set at soft (supposedly 20mm I think) and the Whiteline rear swaybar (can't remember the thickness, was it 22mm as well?) which is set to the middle and it's too stiff for the road. There's zero body roll and you feel every bump.

Is yours the same, with practically zero body roll and feels stiff?
I have Tein SS coilovers

The sway-bar should not affect the ride quality of the vehicle. We run 42mm Armoured Vehicle sway-bars on our work 200 Series Landcruiser and it rides smoother than a baby's ass. Throw it into a corner and it's dead flat, which is no mean feat for a 2.7tonne wagon.

I'd say your shocks in the rear are too stiff if you're feeling every bump in the road. That, or the tyre pressures are too high.

fraz91 wrote:it rides smoother than a baby's ass.

You're no longer welcome at Wine Country.