FTO AUSTRALIA

did a noob search and found no usefull info on how to relocate the battery to the boot.

can i suggest someone who has done this before right up a DIY for future? aza? ben?

reason i want to do this is so i can get rid of the 90degree bend in the throttle body-maf intake pipe.

few questions:
1. is it as simple as just extending positive and negative leads?
2. how have you set it up inside the cabin or boot ie. mounting.

pics would help allot too

cheers

Here's my setup. I did Aza's too, both very similar. You dont need to extend the negative, only the pos. For the neg, just attach it to the car somewhere in the boot. I went to the bolts thats hold the rear strut brace in.

Also keep in mind the legalities, the battery has to be a selaed unit as the boot is not ventilated, you also have to have the fusible link as close the battery as possible, this is just in case the pos lead earths against the car. You also need to buy the proper gauge lead too. I can't remember what gauge it is thou.. the battery shop I bought it all from told me.





You'll see here I used the old battery tray from the engine bay. I had to cut a corner off it to fit & a little metal manipulation as the battery needs to be solid mounted. I also drilled through both the tray and the plastic tool tray it sat in & bolted it solid to the underside of the car. It was a good way to both reuse an existing part & also keep the plastic tray in the boot - as it also acts as 1 half of the boot board support Was able to hook up the existing battery support bracket as well.



Connectors & fusable link before being connected.



Finished product

Oh & if you are trying to modify your intake the way I think you are, you may wish to reconsider...

You want a short straight section of pipe with a pod hanging off the end feeding direct into the throttle body?

An intake run that short will loose you your air veloicty as opposed to that of a standard length intake.

Aka, you may find 2kws at 8500rpm, but you'll loose all low-mid range torque.

thanks for the info ben, will aid heeps.

im guessing the fusable link is already attatched to the original positive wire right? all i have to do is move it close to where i mount the battety correct?

ok i was considering 2 options with my intake pipe.

1. throttle body - 45'bend - (maybe another one depending on the angle) - straight pipe - maf - straight pipe - pod.

so it will sit where the existing stock airbox is. trying to minimise any sharp bends in the system whilst keeping it at good distance so my cold air feed hose doesnt have to travel far from the front bar.

2. straight pipe - maf - uas intake pipe - pod

*with this one, the uas pipe has been proven for good gains but not being able to run it on a gr is the problem hence the maf before the pipe. i understand i may need to cut a bit off the end of the uas pipe if the pod hits the sidewall.

ben would the high position of the air flow meter affect anything?

read your 2nd post.

i laughed. i can imagine someone just wacking a pod onto the tb
naa i dont want the pod near the throttle body, want it as close to the stock position so when i make a box i can choose either to utilize the original cold air feed hole (in chassis) OR run the cold air feed pipe down in front of the gearbox.

Nah, the further away the MAF is from the filter the better. Its a sensitive bugger & any big air temp changes send it haywire.

The fuseible link you'll need to buy. They dont have one normally if the battery doesn't have a long pos run

ok one last question before i spend some cash.

whats the fuse rating that you used in the link? ive got no work tomorow so it will probly be done. hopefully

btw ben did you get my pm regarding the extractors?

150amp

Yep, will get to my pms. I have 3 million of them to go through since the site outage

arghhh!

okay been driving around since 8:30 getting all my parts.

everything i have so far
- 6m of battery wiring (1m at close to 20bux ...holy crap)
- heat shrink wrap
- wire to battery connectors

tried to get the inline fuse. noone had it. i went to autobarn, they said their largest was 120amps and said go to Jaycar. went to jaycar they had nothing. went to batteryworld blacktown, they said they didnt make them that big, then the he said he has some coming... obviously lying (also told me to go jaycar). last resort was repco and the kid handed me a 50amp subwoooofa bro inline fuse, he then kept insisting it would work... assh*le

ben where did you get yours?

Well you've already been to 2 of the places I got parts from. Batteryworld supplied all my bits including the inline fuse & Jaycar have supplied me with replacement fuses!

This what one looks like:

*sigh* ok... google search showed me the light, all in car stereo workshops should stock these fuses...clapclapclap

will head out when its a bit cooler

This is what I am using:

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.as ... rm=KEYWORD

this is what I would probably use now:

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.as ... rm=KEYWORD

These will not need to be replaced if you get a short and it is easier to kill the power to the car when working on it by flicking a switch rather than removing the battery terminal or a 150A fuse.

OooOOooh, fancy!

Bennoz wrote:

We sell them at WOW for $9 I believe.

Yeah that sounds about right. I bought 3 spares from Jaycar & it was around 30 bucks from memory.

i have an earth wire connecting to the positive battery plug. it looks like its stock wiring... glack & red in colour

it ran from the positive plug to an earth bolt just under the extractors... do i need to hook that back up? is it needed for something?

disregard post ok all up and running ... wasnt as easy as i thought lol

ok. everything turns on but now it wont start.

how i set it up.

soldered new + lines to old
*i had a wire running to a black cylinder looking bottle thing. its right after the connection from extractors to down pipes. this wire connected to the positive battery plug. i have wired it to the main positive wire running from the battery.* i think this is whats stopping the engine from turning on.*
connected new lines to fuse link
connected fuse link to + battery plug

removed earth wires.
earth wires connected to rear light bolts/chassis and to - battery plug

starter is not connected mate

vipfto wrote:starter is not connected mate

Yep that would do it. that would be the other wire you where talking about.