FTO AUSTRALIA

The guy from the tuning shop just Rang me and told me he can't even sit the car on 2k revs to set the fuel mixtures with out it getting hot Quickly. Even with his big fan it gets hot and on idle it won't cool down grrrh help guys

Thermostat = Replaced ?
Coolant = What brand are you using? Anti-Boil?
Is the coolant circulating.
Has it been bleed properly?
Do you have to top up the coolant?

Um changed the thermostat when we changed the motor. Have to find out about the coolant. But why won't the car cool down on idle what causes the car not to do that

What about water pump?

Help us out here. "Help its getting hot! why?" Is always better accompanied by "I've replaced this, that & the other. It was working fine the other day, it happened when I did this...."

Ok water pump all seals timing belt themostat gt changed when I put the new motor in. I just went and spoke to him and he said it is not using any water so he said their is no leaks. He said it gets hot and when he let's it idle it will not come bak down it just stays really hot. He says he might have to rip the radtiator out and pull it apart and clean it.

Id be pressure testing the system before i just started ripping out stuff willie nillie

I8A4RE wrote:willie nillie

Thats a town up there you know

nvr2low wrote:Ok water pump all seals timing belt themostat gt changed when I put the new motor in. I just went and spoke to him and he said it is not using any water so he said their is no leaks. He said it gets hot and when he let's it idle it will not come bak down it just stays really hot. He says he might have to rip the radtiator out and pull it apart and clean it.

Yet you didn't have this problem last week... I don't think thats gonna help.

Are both thermo's coming on & staying on? The Microtech now controls the fans, they need to ensure they're getting the correct voltage & are coming on at the right temperature - aka about 86-87 degrees...

Maybe like the stepper, they should keep the signal for the thermos coming from the stock ECU..

I didn't have this problem last week because it wasn't on the dyno being tuned haha.
I will ring him up and make sure the thermos are coming on but I bet they are I hope. What can cause the car to get so hot and then not cool down just idling.

Just rang the bloke he said the thermos come on with my ignition not controlled by the ecu and they were on. He has sent the radiator off to be cleaned by a radiator shop. He says he thinks it is full of sh*t. Let's hope it is lol I saw at 2000rpm
on the dyno lol it made 100kw haha so it said on the screen aha.

Thinks or knows?
Easy to tell if it's full of sh*t.
Also easy to waste money on a mechanic who doesn't know what he's doing...

Did you find what coolant, if any is being used? a;sp as I8 said, to have it pressure tested?

Gona cost you around $200 to get this radiator replaced if that's what he's going to do, which I'd put money on.

Well he says he is certain it is the radiator got sh*t in it and nah this bloke has knowen my family for a very long time and he is really good. Tells u exactly what you need and what is going on.

Hey Ben I remmber you saying yours was getting hot when u were on the boost but would cool down if you take it easy. The guy says mine won't even cool down idling and with his dyno fan running

nvr2low wrote:Hey Ben I remmber you saying yours was getting hot when you were on the boost but would cool down if you take it easy. The guy says mine won't even cool down idling and with his dyno fan running

Don't worry about mine. Yours was fine before yes? Problem solving 101 tells me that your problem has been caused by something that you've changed recently....

Bennoz wrote:

nvr2low wrote:Hey Ben I remmber you saying yours was getting hot when you were on the boost but would cool down if you take it easy. The guy says mine won't even cool down idling and with his dyno fan running

Don't worry about mine. Yours was fine before yes? Problem solving 101 tells me that your problem has been caused by something that you've changed recently....

Totally agree

f**k this.

Just give me the bloody car, you won't have any problems then.
I'll even give you a bus pass as a swap

Only things to cause overheating.

pump not circulating coolant.
Thermos not openeing (could be a bad thermo)
fans not operating (been told otherwise)
not enough coolant. water ratio to high
blocked channel somewhere
not enough airflow

OR your gauge is simply reading to high, and in fact the engine is fine... have read that one before

The reason this never happened before on this motor is because I have not loaded this new motor up i just been driving around like a grandma and just taking it easy. The overheating problem did also happen with the old 6a13 I had in their this is why i think it is the radiator.

If its fucked, try & get a thicker core put into it. Thats my next step once I've finished fixing all the other things that are starting to fail on my car

Bennoz wrote:If its fucked, try & get a thicker core put into it. Thats my next step once I've finished fixing all the other things that are starting to fail on my car

My next step too.. mine overheats all the time in summer if I am even on a small slope of a hill. The issue with mine is that the fans are trying to push through both radiators (AC and normal) and to do that they have to draw through the IC first. Venting the engine bay helped immensely but in summer nothing helps. If I can keep her above 70-80 km/h then it's fine, as soon as that drops (like following stupid people who drive 20km'h lower than corner speed limits) then the temp sky rockets.

First up, turn your heater on full (not AC) and see if that bleeds heat off, that's what I do. If that is the case you need a bigger radiator AND perhaps better fans (though I remember you had some awesome fans)

Also, are you still running the fans through the standard operating circuits? Reason I ask is that when I first drove mine I realised that when I turned on the ignition the radiator fans would run at full noise, then when I actually started the engine they would stop completely and not kick in at high temps.

To 'fix' it I simply wired them upto a pair of relays and switches in the cabin; one runs all the time, and the other only when necessary (to be honest, they both run all of the time)

Reason I say that, check and make sure that your fans are actually engaging at high temps and not just with ignition on.

But with the thicker core will our thermos still fit in the same spot ben.
Ftevoultion my thermos come on with the ignition 2 man and everytime I open the engine bay they always seem to be running but I will make sure.