FTO AUSTRALIA

Hi guys,
been having this problem the last week with my car.

When shifting from gear 1 to gear 2 or when it downshifts from gear 4 to gear 3 there is a clunk in the gear change that shakes the whole cabin.
Today I did a transmission fluid flush etc. so the fluid is fine however the problem still happens.

Will changing the fluid take time to fix the issue or is it another issue altogether? Should I go see a transmission specialist?

I'm worried this is going to cost a lot....

Have you checked your mounts at all?

Which mounts should I be checking? I don't think it's a mount issue as some gears are fine when changing

Driving around tonight and there was less of an issue with Gear 1 to Gear 2 but Gear 4 to Gear 3 there is still the shudder. Not as bad as yesterday but it's still there.

Any ideas?

-Nighthawk- wrote:Driving around tonight and there was less of an issue with Gear 1 to Gear 2 but Gear 4 to Gear 3 there is still the shudder. Not as bad as yesterday but it's still there.

Any ideas?

First thing is to check your lower mounts. An easy way to do this is to open the bonnet, run the engine and rev it with your hand on the throttle cable.

If the engine is rotating when you do this then your lower mounts aren't holding it and need replaced.

The reason it clunks is that the engine braking force on a downshift will rotate the engine and the mounts will make the noise.

The engine has always moved a little bit when revving, I couldn't rev it too high (got to 4500) and it shakes a bit.

Any other checks on the mounts besides visually observing the engine? How much is the engine mount to replace?
Thanks

Theres a write up I think Ben did on it (who else ) and I'd have a look at that first. Any prices I give will be in Scottish pounds and probably not very helpful

Bill

-Nighthawk- wrote:The engine has always moved a little bit when revving, I couldn't rev it too high (got to 4500) and it shakes a bit.

Any other checks on the mounts besides visually observing the engine? How much is the engine mount to replace?
Thanks

If your mounts are stock then 100% they all are screwed. The side mounts will have sagged 1.5 cm causing the engine to sit on the rear and front mounts.

Over time the rear mount goes causing the engine to sit lower in the back which causes your side mounts to rip slightly at the back side of the insulator. If you look at the side mount the bolt hole should not be in the middle of the insulator it should be about 1cm closer to the bottom. Like this.
http://www.eziautoparts.com.au/mackay-e ... a5520.html



Makes a massive difference to vibration shifting performance once done.

Pull the center member off and check ya front and rear mounts. I bet they have been stretched downwards. Pull the right mount off and check the top rear of the insulator bet you see cracks.

I can give an an example photo if need be.

Storm wrote:

-Nighthawk- wrote:Driving around tonight and there was less of an issue with Gear 1 to Gear 2 but Gear 4 to Gear 3 there is still the shudder. Not as bad as yesterday but it's still there.

Any ideas?

First thing is to check your lower mounts. An easy way to do this is to open the bonnet, run the engine and rev it with your hand on the throttle cable.

If the engine is rotating when you do this then your lower mounts aren't holding it and need replaced.

The reason it clunks is that the engine braking force on a downshift will rotate the engine and the mounts will make the noise.

A broken mount will cause severe rocking but it its slightly ripped rocking will be minimal but will cause vibration shifting issues.

Thanks I'll attempt it tomorrow. Taking off the mount isnt going to cause my engine to fall down on me right?

Get someone to lye under the engine so if it falls it'll have a soft landing

Michael, my transmission mount and lower mounts were screwed when I got my car. When you put it into drive, does it feel like it drops a little? There should be minimal movement when it selects 1st from neutral. Check the top mount near the filter. I have a spare 4spd tip mount thats yours for free if yours is wrecked.

Yep the car does move a little when I put it into drive. Thanks, I'll have a look at the condition tomorrow

Hey guys,
just had a visual check and the rear mount is screwed. The front mount looks ok however but I'll probably replace them both at once.

Since Camskill will charge $3,000 for postage are there any stores in Australia that sell both mounts?

Cheers

I would look at the side mounts first. If they are sagging it will kill your new mounts in no time.

But you can get the rear mount from Repco for $50.00. Front mount is $80 I think

You will be shocked how good the idle will be after replacing the rear mount.

Where abouts are the side mounts located?

One next to the timing case and one under your battery cover.

If your side mount inner tube is basically in the middle of the insulator your engine is handing low which means when you put in the new mount it will sort of push down on the new mount.

The side mounts are a pain to purchase. What you can do in the meantime is wedge something in the top hole of the mount which stops the mount from sagging. I bet your transmission bolts are either hitting your centre member or are bloody close.

Ok we checked the mounts today and all are fine bar the lower ones, so looks like I just need to replace those.

Where is the cheapest store to buy them from?
Cheers

-Nighthawk- wrote:Ok we checked the mounts today and all are fine bar the lower ones, so looks like I just need to replace those.

Where is the cheapest store to buy them from?
Cheers

I don't know what it's like in Oz but when I was looking to replace mine here in the UK I shopped around and the variation in prices was massive. I also bought manual ones, rather than auto ones as I figured they were tougher so would be a bit of an upgrade.

I never noticed much of a difference though if I'm honest