FTO AUSTRALIA

hey bed found out what was wrong with my car, its the MAF sensor...since you dont use yours can i buy it off you bud pleaseeeee.....the car boosts to 20psi with no trouble with the MAF disconnected but sucks on idle

opps ment to say ben not bed lolz sorry

lol ok, lemmie see if I've still got it! I don't think I have....

sorry ben thought id fill you in i got a new maf sensor but still :,(

i replaced the MAF today and the car idles perfect not a single miss but still will not rev past 4k...but when i unplug my MAF and drive her with the wastegate recieving no vacume the car will boost and boost to 20psi, like i mean snap your neck boost but nothing with MAF pluged in...is the ECU going into some other map? you guys reckon its a bad 02 sensor? cam sensor or crank sensor? someone told me that it can be a coolent sensor?

The car was running perfect when i boosted it to 15psi then slowly boost started kicking in later and later now ill be lucky to make 5psi :,(..
ill list what i have done so far:

ive replaced these parts so far:
crank sensor from a magna ( i got told there the same)
cam sensor ( from an fto, also got told there the same)
had the injectors cleaned
changed fuel filter
new walbro fuel pump
new MAF
new coil packs

so that leaves the following items:
ECU
02 sensor
TPS
coolent sensor

Is the wastegate leaking preventing it to gain boost?

This ^^

You still running the standard wastegates? They're only good for 14 pound. Anything more than that is likely to screw the diaphrams in them.

im a single turbo bro 2871r....can a dodgy cam sensor stop the car from reving or a coolent sensor?

Bennoz do you know whatever happened to Dannyboyau?
I just stumbled upon his photobucket page and it looks like a nice FTO with forged 6A13 etc

What about clipping the MAF voltage once you hit a certain boost? A few of the triton guys have had to do this as the car goes into limp mode with the after-market turbo and chip. Gives you the advantage of running smooth at idle without having issues with it at higher rpm.

thats an idea fraz considering i already have a pressure switch in place, now all i need is a maf wiring pin out do you know where i could get one from ? :,(...the only bad thing about that is that i get 100km from half a tank lolz..im on a mission to fix this now. gona try change coolent sensor and cam sensor...hey ben can you move this over to help section when you get a chance

Done .

yo aza i i found out it was the TPS after doing some tests grrr finally except the car still will not go into open loop mode and i tried your trick it doesnt work the car just violently shakes hahaha :/...wonder how the guys you were talking about did it, any ideas bro ?

kermut wrote:yo aza i i found out it was the TPS after doing some tests grrr finally except the car still will not go into open loop mode and i tried your trick it doesnt work the car just violently shakes hahaha :/...wonder how the guys you were talking about did it, any ideas bro ?

What do I say in your previous post???

http://ftoaustralia.com/v3/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=25739

"check your TPS."

If you car is limiting your RPM then you car obviously thinks the engine is cost when it's not. Your car is stuck in am open loop (ECU thinks your engine is still cold which means a soft limiter, which limits rpm). Change your coolant temperature sensor which is the one with 2 pins. The single pin temperature sensor is for your dash.

your were right bro..was the TPS for one thing. i changed the coolent temp sensor. my problem is that the car stays in closed loop mode so its preventing the car from making boost and cuts out at 4000 revs because from what i understand the car should go into open loop mode once you start building boost where it ignores the o2 sensor and richens the fuel mixture right, not happening in my car unless i unplug my MAF sensor then the car will idle like a C*NT but will boost off its head and its not the MAF cause i just changed it and the car idles perfect....so this is where im stuck atm.

so my question is what prevents your car from going into open loop mode, what sensor?

If it stays in closed loop there should not be an issue with the car until it's warm. If it's stuck with the soft limiter then it's stuck in a cold open loop.

Oxygen sensors could cause a car to get stuck in a closed loop.

Get a multimeter out and test the resistance between the two terminals of your coolant temperature sensor when cold and when hot. Post ya results.

my resistance does change as the temp warms up, what is the resistance value its ment to be while cold and while warmed up?

kermut wrote:my resistance does change as the temp warms up, what is the resistance value its ment to be while cold and while warmed up?

Not only change but make sure it's changing smoothly. Check the user manual cant remember.